I think I just found A Manual boost controller???

pierre44

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2003.5 MazdaSpeed protege
I kept finding things as i look closer at my new MSP, I think i just found a MBC it has LSP labeled on it, I've never even heard of that. The tail hole i got it from snatched his boost gauge so idk what im pushing. Let me know do i need a new MBC or just install the gauge.
 

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wouldn't boost till you get a guage best deal remove mbc and put straight fitting in case you do. you should be at around 5psi no more then 8 with out takeing a risk of going boom.
 
is it attached to your wga?
if it is it's a mbc if not where is it attached to?
 
yea its attached to my wga, so best bet is to remove and straight fit the two lines connected to it? But if i leave it whats the harms and would adding a boost gauge help read to boost. and in your first reply what did you mean by it wouldnt boost, "the controller or car itself" thanks for the help youre saving me alot a headache's thanks man.
 
what he is saying is for you not to allow the car to go into boost until you know how high the boost is set on that MBC. Boost to high and your motor goes pop!!!.
Consider this:
The guy removed the Boost gauge. What else was removed before purchase that was helping maintain motor safety. Was there some sort of EMS that was tuned to boost 12 psi??? now that gone but he forgot to take the MBC out too.
Just pick up a cheap sunpro boost gauge from pepboys like $30.00 so you at least know where your at boost wise
 
Knowing your boost is a MUST with the FS engine.... Going POP isnt a good thing :( even though it can happen when you arnt boosting (LIKE MEEE!! :( )
 
Knowing your boost is a MUST with the FS engine.... Going POP isnt a good thing :( even though it can happen when you arnt boosting (LIKE MEEE!! :( )

Im sure you posted about this before, but how did you blow yours without boosting? That makes me not want to drive my car. Every time I drive my car I always think, " is this the day I snap another diff or blow my motor?"
 
got it guys thanks for the help, you may have saved my engine. I'll go pick up my gauge and post readings.
 
Which ever way I go I know i need that gauge which would be a good source(line) to attach the gauge to???
 
Im sure you posted about this before, but how did you blow yours without boosting? That makes me not want to drive my car. Every time I drive my car I always think, " is this the day I snap another diff or blow my motor?"

I was just driving around with a friend trying to figure out what to do (it was at 1am) and my car just started to tick REALLY loudly.... So i dropped him off at his house and tryed to go home, I was in 3rd going around 35, and POP.... I didnt do anything bad... which kinda pisses me off. My Limited slip went the same way, it went when I wasnt doing anything aggressive or bad to the car... I would be more understandable if I was beating on it but I wasnt....

Now I need a car, then I need to save for a built engine for my car. Hopefully one day.
 
Which ever way I go I know i need that gauge which would be a good source(line) to attach the gauge to???

On top of the Intake mani. (its the one most people use at first before they have a block in their break booster)
 
There is a thread in the How to on building your own Vac block by using Mcmaster parts. Or you can just buy one. Either way. Run your WGA, BOV/BPV, and Boost gauge all off the same line on the brake booster...write up also found in the how too. If you eventaully or already have EMS connect that to the vac block as well that way everything is running off the same solid line and seeing the smae pressures!!! Best and safest practice.

OP: please update your location in your profile and maybe add some of the mods you know it has or was told it has to this thread. So we can help you further. You might also try posting some pics of your engine bay and car and we might be able to find more things for you. most of us have spend more hours then we'd care to admit under the hoods and the these cars so we know needs to be where!!!
LOL
 
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i'd go with a quality boost gauge, a cheapo can be off a couple PSI. unless a few people can vouch for the accuracy of a cheap gauge.

if your not going the vac block route, a good source is the fuel pressure regulator line. but tap the line at the back of the manifold between the manifold and the FPR solenoid.

also something i'd like to know, my cruise control used two fittings on the stock manifold. now the MSP doesn't have cruise control, correct? what are those fittings used for? one is on top of the manifold infront of, and on the drivers side, of the VICS and VTCS solenoids, the other is on the passenger side under the runners by the butterfly acuators.
 
I'm running a sunpro at the moment and it reads pretty accurate to what my Split Second reads. It was a great cheap temp. fix. I've run Sunpro in all my off-road rigs without any issues, I can state for a fact they are can take abuse.
 
I was just driving around with a friend trying to figure out what to do (it was at 1am) and my car just started to tick REALLY loudly.... So i dropped him off at his house and tryed to go home, I was in 3rd going around 35, and POP.... I didnt do anything bad... which kinda pisses me off. My Limited slip went the same way, it went when I wasnt doing anything aggressive or bad to the car... I would be more understandable if I was beating on it but I wasnt....

Now I need a car, then I need to save for a built engine for my car. Hopefully one day.

man that sucks, I can't wait to build mine. Im pretty sure you will get it running soon. Can't wait til tax time. Pretty soon, there won't be many MSPs without built motors or welded/aftermarket LSDs. But back on topic...
 
Mods list(what ive seen myself): HKS full system(with stock cat),Injen CAI,AWR mounts,MBC not sure of the name.

Also where the dimmer switch is suppose to be there's a on/off switch instead.dont no if it will give me trouble hookin up my gauge lights.

I'll post pics of every area soon(engine bay,underdash etc.)
 
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