I killed something this time.

1sty

Member
Contributor
:
2006 Toyota Tundra DC
I am having several problem with my BEGI kit.

1. thrusday the boost went to 6 PSI, Friday to 5 now it won't pass 3

2. The car almost stalls once brought to a stop and while resting every 10 seconds it almost stalls.

3. The FPR makes a horrible squeeling noise when ever I try to adjust it to 50 PSI, I have to re attach the signal line for it to stop. I can bring the FPR to 48 but any more and it starts squeeling and the guage drops to under 45 PSI.


WHAT THE **** HAVE I DONE TO MY CAR!!!(argh)
 
Its called workin out the quirks and tuning the car:) Dont worry about it, this is normal. For your idle problem make sure all of your I/C pipes are fitted correctly and snug no leaks, if that does not solve it then go through all your vacum lines and that should solve that problem. For your turbo, well never heard of that before perhaps that is also vacum related and affecting the signal to your wastegate or your wastegate is faulty.
The fuel regulator well that sounds like you need to get a new one from Corky. ;)
 
Like Spoolin wrote, don't be to worry about that. It realy sound like an air leak or maybe a vaccum leak but probably more an air leak. Check all piping connection. A good way to check that is to put water with a little bit of soap in it, on every connection. If you see bubbles appear around the connection, this is a leak!!!

An air leak do exactly what you wrote. Lost of boost and no more idle.

About the FPR, it is probably faulty. It is prabably under guaranty. Ask them for a new one.

Good luck!
 
Their is no vacuum line to the waste gate at all, never was. The directions didn't mention it but thier appears to be a fitting for it.

I assume I shouldn't even try to run the car until the FPR is delt with.

Also the boost going away wasn't like an sudden change but it seemed to loose 1 PSI every 12 hours.
 
All the lines passed my visual testes nothing signal or air seem sto be leaking. The only thing I can imagine with the boost is that the waste gates nut was loose and is turning itself down. I might try to just turn it up tomarrow but that damn FPR is scaring the hell out of me. I thought the car was going to explode the first time I heard it.
 
Dont turn the boost back up until you have the FPR problem figured out. Call Corky on Monday, he will send you another if its faulty. I had a BOV to stick closed and my car would not boost or idle right. 5 min fix. Dont worry. Just needs a little tuning.
 
spoolinmp3 said:

Yes forgot about that.
Now, now CH(no) :p
Just wait Terry, I may get you to help me out with an E-Manage soon as I've helped you out alot with your turbo setup ;) but anyways its the truth i got sick of messing with the "little" things. I've got my header I've got my pistons if won't ahve as much power as you but it will still be fun as hell.
 
I'm no turbo expert but isn't 45 PSI extremly high?? Correct if I'm wrong or r u refferring to something different? :confused:
 
The fuel pressure is the force at which fuel is flowing from the tank to the fuel rail and from the rail back to the tank. Boost pressure is the the pressure of the air charge the turbo is forcing into the engine. Normal air pressure at sea level is 14.7 PSI so when some one refers to boost pressure they mean the pressure over 14.7 that is seen after the turbo.
 
Yeah, I agree, there has to be some kind of leak somewhere. Check that nut on the wastegate.

Wshade, is there a vacuum hose where he said there looks like there is supposed to be one above?
 
The waste gate is connected properly. It came pre set up by Corky. So no chance of me screwing it up. The intake hoses are tight as hell I can jack up the car, crab the pipes and lift myself off the ground by them. so no way there loose. My leading suspects are the waste gate and bypass valve.
 
There's a possibility of a leak in the intercooler. I already saw a bad welding causing a leak on an intercooler. Maybe if you can bypass the intercooler just for a test. It can make you sure that this parts is ok or not.

About the wastegate and the bypass valve, you can also try to run a small test by removing those parts one by one, blocking the hole temporarely and see if you got some boost. If you remove the wastegate and run a test, just keep your eyes on the boost gauge to be sure you don't go to high on the boost. Without the wastegate, the boost can go high realy fast.
 
Stou said:
About the wastegate and the bypass valve, you can also try to run a small test by removing those parts one by one, blocking the hole temporarely and see if you got some boost. If you remove the wastegate and run a test, just keep your eyes on the boost gauge to be sure you don't go to high on the boost. Without the wastegate, the boost can go high realy fast.
Yeah...probably a good idea to have two people to do that, unless you have a boost gauge in the engine compartment. It'd be ideal to have one person with their head in the compartment sniffing around, and one inside to monitor boost, RPM, and A/F mix.
 
FIXED IT

BUTTTTTT!!!!!!

The turbo spools right to 8 PSI (omg) and damn isw it fun (yippy) . I didn't hear any knock but then I doubt I could. You guys and Corky were right the hole time one of the I/C tubes was just slightly loose.

Thanks everyone for your help.
(bluemp3)
 
Back