I did it again!
- Thread starter 6speed
- Start date
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
Sounds good mike!!
Morning all, see most of you I hope in a few days! Gotta clean the car, not having a garage, hose and a bucket handy has been a "clean car killer" all season!
Perro del Sol
Member
- :
- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
Mike, give our best to Liz! We'll miss you guys and I am sure you know that Lauri has gone through this and more. If there is anything we can do, please let us know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdKSgDv14B4
A busy eventful session, but the only one I got on video. Had to pit to solve a problem with my hood coming loose in the middle where the video breaks (you can see the shaking just before the video cut).
Ran down a GT3in the last session, which was clearly my fastest. All weekend though, I could hang on the tail of a prior generation Camero SS down the straight (and dust him in the corners), and the same with a 350z Nismo (or 370z? not sure).
340 Treadwear tires (the Conti DWs), wastegate boost due to tune/firmware related issues, and the popping you hear on the video is my front coilover springs. They will be getting the preload reset to resolve that.
Plans / Next Steps of stuff that will be done over the winter and into next spring. Not sure on the order of everything yet, and I expect that moving will interfere with a bunch of it:
- Rebuilding left rear caliper this weekend. It froze up on my last session last weekend, car currently not safely driveable.
- Probably be pursuing a big brake kit, since replacing all my calipers (both rears need it, a stripping bolt on the right rear, frozen caliper on the left rear that I won't ever trust again) and rotors with OEM ones, plus higher grade Carbotech pads is more expensive than just doing this: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?stocknumber=14-16220 2001-05ABS
- Brake ducting for the track. Install brake duct shields behind the hubs, and run the hoses to the fog lights. Remove the fog lights for the track, no need for the ducting on the street and I like my fogs.
- If my hubs are off anyway, I am thinking I replace them with the blueprinted hubs from FM. Cheap enough and pre-emptively addressing that future weakness.
- MAP based intake. I would really prefer NOT to buy from BEGI, but their cold air intake seems to be functionally the best because of placement and because i can opt for a delete of the recirc fitting and MAF pipe. AEM seems like the only other option for that location, but includes provision for a MAF. FM used to sell a MAP intake pipe, but Keith responded today to let me know that they discontinued it due to lack of interest. And pretty much the only other option i can see that I'd have would be a custom fabricated one.
- New BOV. One that is vent to atmosphere rather than recirc, 99% sure it would be the Turbosmart Vee Port, as it was recommended by my tuner
- Toyota COP conversion
- Timing belt and front crank seal replacement
- Get my 99's intake manifold cleaned up and installed
- a vacuum rail fitted (to either the manifold itself or to the firewall), and get all my boost/vacuum lines cleaned up with their own sources.
- Replace my intercooler, it's done it's job as a rock guard quite well and is quite beat up. I might drop in size to 27x6x2.5
- Obtain a set of 15x9 6UL with 225 width RS3s
- Considering a cat delete downpipe, but not seeing many options for that yet. I'd love to get a Moroso resonator in place of the cat. It does wonderful things to the exhaust note of a rotary, and i've heard that it does similar pleasing things to a piston engine note. But, they are rare in the piston world, as needlessly more expensive than standard resonators (which don't work on a rotary). In an ideal world, I'd like to have an external wastegate dump pipe that just bypasses the cat, so i can leave the cat in there for smell reduction, but i haven't seen a single example of such a pipe for the MSM. Space available is the biggest challenge i'd guess, with the presence of the internal wastegate being another issue. I might have to wait to re-visit a turbo upgrade before pursuing that.
- Retune once i'm finished touching everything that affects tune and/or power (BOV, intake pipe, downpipe and/or cat, 99 manifold, intercooler, cop ignition, vacuum rail)
- Adjust coilover pre-load to remove annoying spring popping when under heavy transitional load, with accompanying re-alignment and re-corner balancing.
- Replace the OEM power steering cooler line with a custom one to get it out of the way of the intercooler, probably incorporate an actual heat sink to address potential future heat problems there.
- Prep my track hood for hood pins
- relocate my windshield washer fluid tank to the trunk
- Flat under tray under as much of the chassis as i can, perhaps allowing a minor splitter off the nose as well.
The money for most of this won't show up until March, where I should have several grand left over after paying off the last of the MSM's loan.
(I'm pretty much counting on not selling the MSM at this point)
- Rebuilding left rear caliper this weekend. It froze up on my last session last weekend, car currently not safely driveable.
- Probably be pursuing a big brake kit, since replacing all my calipers (both rears need it, a stripping bolt on the right rear, frozen caliper on the left rear that I won't ever trust again) and rotors with OEM ones, plus higher grade Carbotech pads is more expensive than just doing this: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?stocknumber=14-16220 2001-05ABS
- Brake ducting for the track. Install brake duct shields behind the hubs, and run the hoses to the fog lights. Remove the fog lights for the track, no need for the ducting on the street and I like my fogs.
- If my hubs are off anyway, I am thinking I replace them with the blueprinted hubs from FM. Cheap enough and pre-emptively addressing that future weakness.
- MAP based intake. I would really prefer NOT to buy from BEGI, but their cold air intake seems to be functionally the best because of placement and because i can opt for a delete of the recirc fitting and MAF pipe. AEM seems like the only other option for that location, but includes provision for a MAF. FM used to sell a MAP intake pipe, but Keith responded today to let me know that they discontinued it due to lack of interest. And pretty much the only other option i can see that I'd have would be a custom fabricated one.
- New BOV. One that is vent to atmosphere rather than recirc, 99% sure it would be the Turbosmart Vee Port, as it was recommended by my tuner
- Toyota COP conversion
- Timing belt and front crank seal replacement
- Get my 99's intake manifold cleaned up and installed
- a vacuum rail fitted (to either the manifold itself or to the firewall), and get all my boost/vacuum lines cleaned up with their own sources.
- Replace my intercooler, it's done it's job as a rock guard quite well and is quite beat up. I might drop in size to 27x6x2.5
- Obtain a set of 15x9 6UL with 225 width RS3s
- Considering a cat delete downpipe, but not seeing many options for that yet. I'd love to get a Moroso resonator in place of the cat. It does wonderful things to the exhaust note of a rotary, and i've heard that it does similar pleasing things to a piston engine note. But, they are rare in the piston world, as needlessly more expensive than standard resonators (which don't work on a rotary). In an ideal world, I'd like to have an external wastegate dump pipe that just bypasses the cat, so i can leave the cat in there for smell reduction, but i haven't seen a single example of such a pipe for the MSM. Space available is the biggest challenge i'd guess, with the presence of the internal wastegate being another issue. I might have to wait to re-visit a turbo upgrade before pursuing that.
- Retune once i'm finished touching everything that affects tune and/or power (BOV, intake pipe, downpipe and/or cat, 99 manifold, intercooler, cop ignition, vacuum rail)
- Adjust coilover pre-load to remove annoying spring popping when under heavy transitional load, with accompanying re-alignment and re-corner balancing.
- Replace the OEM power steering cooler line with a custom one to get it out of the way of the intercooler, probably incorporate an actual heat sink to address potential future heat problems there.
- Prep my track hood for hood pins
- relocate my windshield washer fluid tank to the trunk
- Flat under tray under as much of the chassis as i can, perhaps allowing a minor splitter off the nose as well.
The money for most of this won't show up until March, where I should have several grand left over after paying off the last of the MSM's loan.
(I'm pretty much counting on not selling the MSM at this point)
Last edited:
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
(I'm pretty much counting on not selling the MSM at this point)[/QUOTE]
(cool)
(cool)
Perro del Sol
Member
- :
- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
Mike, have you considered getting another front bumper for the MSM? That way you can have a track bumper with the brake ducting. Also, have you looked into Cobalt Friction brake pads? You do not have to bed them at all.
I haven't really considered it, but it's viable. I don't see a challenge in having the brake ducting just hanging back behind the foglight on the street, and for track just removing the fog lights and securing the hoses to the holes. I'll check out those pads, though bedding isn't a concern for me. Easy to find a quiet corner of highway up here at night to bed pads in.
Hmm, shoot me pics of each when you got a chance, I'm interested.
I wouldn't pay that at all, just that would be roughly the price for:
- 2 front OEM calipers (~$250 each = $500)
- 2 rear OEM calipers (~$270 each = $540)
- 4 OEM rotors ($65 each = $260)
= $1300
...before we start getting into the pad selection, which would be another $300+ for both axles
Again, I wouldn't actually pay that for calipers and rotors, but even cutting those prices in half, we are still at around $1k for everything. It's just a somewhat unreasonable justification for getting a big brake kit
On miata.net, the general opinion is that they are bling only, entirely unnecessary.
On miataturbo.net, the general opinion is that you are retarded if you haven't gotten a big brake kit and are tracking it.
Given the average power levels of each group of opinions, I'm fairly well convinced that it would be a benefit to upgrade. I found a set of data points as well that one guy went from 500F+ rotor temps to ~270F rotor temps when he went to a big brake kit, and significant increased his pad and rotor lifespan (in terms of track days). That's pretty compelling to me.
Perro del Sol
Member
- :
- 2003 MSP, Spicy Orange, 2004 Mazda 6 Hatch, 2004 Mazda 6 Wagon
Mike, reach out to Jeff Diffendorfer, as he has built PTA Miata that out runs Vettes, Vipers, etc. As far as the Cobalt Friction pads, the bite IMHO, are superior to the Carbotechs.
I don't know his name, or what contact info he might have, I assume you would be able to supply that?
Reman calipers? Yeah, it's what I have to do for the left rear temporarily, I picked one up this morning. I just don't really trust reman parts for critical components that see track stress. Mistakes can happen and I'd rather not find that out at 120+
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