Hypertech Max Energy Sport CAI Update Now Available!

[Chris@Hypertech]

what about people with DPs and upgraded ICs? Will this not work for them?

Hypnotized,

The bigger intercooler will work fine with our tuning. The tuning should respond very well to the increased airflow (aka power) gained by having a better intercooler. The time we spent to develop this tune and ensure that all air mass and torque calculations are correct at the higher power levels create a perfect platform for bolt-on mods. Because these cars use a Mass Airflow Sensor to measure the incoming air, any additional air will be accurately measured and the spark and fueling will be adjusted appropriately for the best, safe power we have already tuned for. Cooler intake air temps from the more efficient intercooler will also be measured by the boosted air temp sensor which will also correct the spark and fueling correctly. That part is no different than the correction made when the outside air temp changes.

Replacing the factory catalyst is typically not EPA and CARB certified authorized, so we would not typically test these types of components. In reality, as long as the replacement downpipe does not cause check engine lights due to poor O2 sensor readings, the Hypertech tuning should work fine.

We did test aftermarket exhaust systems with our tuning and found that they work just fine. The additional power provided by the exhaust system is immediately accounted for by the ECU, and because our tuning maintains an accurate engine model in the calibration, the gains are optimized with the addition of the exhaust system.

 

[anm6]

OK guys just made an appointment for a before and after Dyno run on Saturday( IF my plugs come on Thursday). I have presently removed the Hypertech till the plugs come.. I HAVE not had any issues just being extra careful. I know the Hypertech raised the boost to 18PSI and want to drop a heat range to be safe.. Side note where the hell to gap these. I have seen anywhere from 28-40 on here. EHH that's a huge difference.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

I am considering this as a tuning option. Are you going to be adding a launch control or flat foot shifting feature to your tune? This is a great feature that I think a lot of people would be interested in.

spec2k5,

Those are definitely cool features, but they are racing type features that could possibly damage your transmission and drivetrain, so we won't offer them.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

Will there be anything available for NA 2.5L engines from the 2010 models?

Silverworm,

We will be expanding the Sport programmer for the 2010 model vehicles. We have some other projects ahead of this on the schedule, so I don't have any date that I can give you, but the NA 2.5L is on our list.

I suggest going to our website and putting in a product request. We'll notify you when something becomes available. The link to it is here.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

so honestly...what is the difference between this and cobbs tuning device besides the obvious things? not trying to sound ignorant or prove anything...i own an accessport and want to know what the scoop is.

The biggest difference is that Cobb has software that allows you to custom tune, and then load the tunes in with the AP. We don't offer any custom tuning software with the Sport. All of the tuning products we sell are certified 50-state emission legal. If we had options in the programmer to change the tuning, we would not be able to pass CARB certification.

The AP also has some data monitoring features. The Sport programmer does not have any monitoring capability. It is just a re-flash device.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

0-60 WOT softening, does that mean the limited boost in 1st & 2nd?

Yes, this option removes the boost limit in those gears.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

From Hypertech website: Selectable 0-60MPH Electronic Throttle Restriction (Factory, or Removed)

Chris expalined in one of these threads what it means and probably did a better job than me. Since the MS3 has a fly by wire throttle, the ECU softens it when you slam down to WOT. Kind of a buffer to help reduce wheelspin and enhance smoothness below 60. They give you the option to turn it off. I don't think it is the boost limit thing. I will defer to Chris to clarify.

Had a quick drive, but traffic in the area is all fouled up right now, so no WOT blasts. It does feel better at part throttle though. More later.

I explained this in another reply, but you are partly right. We tune the throttle opening delay, but that is part of the overall tuning file. You get that whether you select the 0-60 removal or not.

 

[Chris@Hypertech]

i do have a question then about the egt;s you were seeing and your thoughts where you said 1500 degrees at 250 hp vs 1500 degrees at cruise with 50 hp. lets say you went on a 20 miles highway run at cruise and your did in fact react 1500 egt's. there would have to be a "cooldown period" after you leave the highway for the egt's and combustion chambers to cool down before going WOT in fear of ruining the turbo shaft correct? i mean, if 1500 at WOT could ruin the turbo shaft what type of abuse could these turbos take after a highway drive? probably not much...for a while anyway...

The difference is the heat energy generated. The heat energy is going to be lower at low RPM, and low HP output, and increase as HP and RPM increase. EGT's on a 70mph cruise on a flat and level road can be 1500F with the stock tune. The oxygen sensor is correcting the AFR for stoichiometric at part throttle. Compared to a full throttle pull in 4th gear at 250HP and 1500F, the heat energy is much greater. Its this heat energy that would cause problems for a turbocharger. It is definitely recommended to have a cooldown period after hard, full throttle driving, but not necessary with part throttle cruising.

 

[soul.survivor]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Mine will be here tomorrow. I still haven't decided what to do about a catback exhaust. I was always under the impression that the downpipe was the real point of restriction and that catbacks didn't do much at all for the MS3. I am now leaning towards getting a vibrant, cp-e, or mazdaspeed catback...I just can't find enough info on the mazdaspeed version.

 

[anm6]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Mine will be here tomorrow. I still haven't decided what to do about a catback exhaust. I was always under the impression that the downpipe was the real point of restriction and that catbacks didn't do much at all for the MS3. I am now leaning towards getting a vibrant, cp-e, or mazdaspeed catback...I just can't find enough info on the mazdaspeed version.

IMO just get a DP. That's what I did made a real difference in the sound and the cars performance. The DP is the way to go. Then go one heat range colder on the plugs and flash with this.. Hopefully I have a dyno on Saturday. With my mods.

 

[GoSpeed3]

thanks for the replie chris im definitely considering youre guys' flasher for my car, for a big dynoday meet here in norcal.

 

[MSMS3]

Side note where the hell to gap these. I have seen anywhere from 28-40 on here. EHH that's a huge difference.

Start at .030. NO LARGER. You can then experiment at .028 or even .026. I don't know of anyone going tighter than that.

Be sure to check each plug. Don't assume they came gapped correctly. Be gentle. You can typically close them down by gently tapping the electrode end of the ground strap, GENTLY against a block of wood. That's better for iridium center electrode plugs than trying to use a gapping tool. But you must use a good gapping tool if you go too far and have to open it up. Otherwise you run the risk of wiping the iridium from the center electrode wire.

 

[anm6]

Start at .030. NO LARGER. You can then experiment at .028 or even .026. I don't know of anyone going tighter than that.

Be sure to check each plug. Don't assume they came gapped correctly. Be gentle. You can typically close them down by gently tapping the electrode end of the ground strap, GENTLY against a block of wood. That's better for iridium center electrode plugs than trying to use a gapping tool. But you must use a good gapping tool if you go too far and have to open it up. Otherwise you run the risk of wiping the iridium from the center electrode wire.

Thanx for the info.., Been a tool swinger for a while- LOL But it's always nice hat people are always helping out on here.. . I do have a good gap tool and would NEVER asssume the plugs came pre gapped. I dont think I ever install a set right out of the box. All it takes is the parts picker to drop one and there goes that gap.. LOL

 

[soul.survivor]

IMO just get a DP. That's what I did made a real difference in the sound and the cars performance. The DP is the way to go. Then go one heat range colder on the plugs and flash with this.. Hopefully I have a dyno on Saturday. With my mods.

No way am I getting a DP. It's the biggest power gain mod for this car for sure. But it is too much trouble. Just about everyone with smoking turbo issues and blown engines has a DP.

 

[Mid_Life_Crisis]

I think for the money and installation headaches compared to power gain, the only exhaust mod I would bother with is a test pipe. Part of me desperately wants a Cobb hi-flow catted downpipe (those are almost too pretty to be so completely hidden) but I 1) don't have the money and 2) think it is too much of a headache to swap a downpipe.

 

[MSMS3]

No way am I getting a DP. It's the biggest power gain mod for this car for sure. But it is too much trouble. Just about everyone with smoking turbo issues and blown engines has a DP.

No smoking turbo. No blown engine. 33,000 miles. About 25,000 since the catless dp/rp went on the car shortly after the intake. I drive this car very aggressively.

What keeps these cars safe is staying with the stock tune or having a good tuner that keeps afr's conservative, keeps boost no more than 17.5-18 psi when under load, and that keeps the stock ECU safety features in place, like fuel/load cut, and closing of the throttle plate after about 5,800 rpm.

Pig rich soot -- we all have that. Smoking turbo -- no. Sorry for the thread jack. Just couldn't let that blind assumption go without response.

 

[boosted1]

I plan to install the HyperTech flash tomorrow, but the CPe RMM must go on first. My engine rocks a bit too much sometimes and needs reinforcement, before the tune is put in. (wiggle)

 

[anm6]

Let us know how you feel about the tune also..

 

[anm6]

No smoking turbo. No blown engine. 33,000 miles. About 25,000 since the catless dp/rp went on the car shortly after the intake. I drive this car very aggressively.

What keeps these cars safe is staying with the stock tune or having a good tuner that keeps afr's conservative, keeps boost no more than 17.5-18 psi when under load, and that keeps the stock ECU safety features in place, like fuel/load cut, and closing of the throttle plate after about 5,800 rpm.

Pig rich soot -- we all have that. Smoking turbo -- no. Sorry for the thread jack. Just couldn't let that blind assumption go without response.

+10000 the DP will not make your turbo smoke or cause the engine to blow as long as you monitor your boost an AF to make sure it's not out of wack.. The soot is terriable I clean me tip every 3-4 days.. (sad2)

 

[Hypnotized]

For those that have this flash can you please tell me what your seeing as far as AFR goes?? Im sure those that have the flash have a dashhawk to monitor this.