Hypertech Max Energy Sport CAI Update Now Available!

[meicalnissyen]

Correct he did state 17.5, I'm getting 18.2psi - 18.7 psi but for some reason it feels........well flat just doesn't seem to be pulling just revving, it's hard to describe.

I would concur with the feeling, while doing some datalogs, which of late I now do in 4rth from 60-80, to be consistent, and legal (shady)
it does feel softer than stock

I need to figure out the 0-60 function on the DH, not seeing how to do that, (haven't really tried)and mebbe try to get some objective to correlate the feel

 

[meicalnissyen]

Well no such luck. I re-installed the tune, and same result P2188. I went back to stock for a few days, and things went back to normal. For grins I pulled the neg terminal, and reset the ecu. Drove around for a few days this way, and my trims are holding consistently. So everything seems fine unless I install the HT tune with the K&N. I have tested it 3 times, and the trims rise up into the -17-19's every time. For grins I decided to install the cpe-nano tune since I have not gotten a reply to my pm yet. My trims at idle will fluctuate from a -9 to -12, get a -7 around 1k-2.5k & seems to be holding 0 above that. So at least I can enjoy it this way until my issue gets resolved.

I was +12 i think with the injen choice, I have settled to +5 on the corksport, after a couple hundred . It was at 3.1, then 3.9, now 5. thats at 80 on the freeway. I have the spectre maf with the large insert so that correlates to a 2-3/4 ID matching the corksport SRI pretty well

You are sure you are seeing negative LTFT at cruising speeds ?

that does seem odd

somehow, somewhere, you are restricting air thru the engine

are you seeing neg stft after the bat disconnect ?

 

[spdjnke]

I'm waiting for my set of ITV20's to show by this week, I'm still gonna see if my theory of different plugs will help, I'll let you know if I figure something out, and if you do let me know.

I would concur with the feeling, while doing some datalogs, which of late I now do in 4rth from 60-80, to be consistent, and legal (shady)
it does feel softer than stock

I need to figure out the 0-60 function on the DH, not seeing how to do that, (haven't really tried)and mebbe try to get some objective to correlate the feel

 

[charlessss]

It would be great If someone had the time to take the car and do 1/4 times from stock, and after with this tune to compare to. This way we can see how consistent everything is. But understandably not everyone has the time or is by a track to do this =\.

 

[MSMS3]

One of the best, most useful and cheapest tuning tools is a $30 stopwatch measuring 60-100 times or 3k to 5.5k rpm wot runs in 4th gear before and after mods.

 

[Hypnotized]

Has anyone else dyoed there car before and after other than what has been posted?

 

[spdjnke]

Those of us who run this reflash is because they've already done the R&D for the power gains, I would be suprised to hear someone who just did this MOD to their car to spend more money to have it Dyno'd. Hence the PLUG and PLAY selling point.

If you wanted to see what differences your car will make with MODS then I would suggest you get a COBB AP then Dyno to see what differences you get out of it.

Just my 2 cents.

Has anyone else dyoed there car before and after other than what has been posted?

 

[kgb]

I'm back after reflashing the device. There was no need for me to do this except to make myself feel better about it.

One change in the variables with the reflash...I didn't pussy foot the first 100 miles...I am not necessarily going balls to the walls WOT but I am much more aggresive than the previous 100 miles and you know what, the car feels fast!

As we all know, 1st and 2nd gears are amazing but this time around 3rd feels alot more wild...

I think that the last time around, I started falling in the trap like a did before my engine blew of watching the dashhawk and not driving the fcking car.

I mean before I had a SRI, DP/RP, TI, AP and was always watching for KR...but now I just have an Intake and (more professional as compared to me) tune ....I need to stop worring about the car blowing and drive it like a b****......and now it's fun again!

 

[spdjnke]

Definately bro, I think we all get fixated on what the damn DH is telling us that we start to imagine that there is something not running right etc. I agree with you just drive the damn thing and move on, I keep saying to myself I need to sell the damn DH so I can start to enjoy my car, but just can't seem to pull the plug yet on the DH.

 

[boosted1]

Those of us who run this reflash is because they've already done the R&D for the power gains.

I agree!

 

[MSMS3]

Those of us who run this reflash is because they've already done the R&D for the power gains, I would be suprised to hear someone who just did this MOD to their car to spend more money to have it Dyno'd. Hence the PLUG and PLAY selling point.

If you wanted to see what differences your car will make with MODS then I would suggest you get a COBB AP then Dyno to see what differences you get out of it.

Just my 2 cents.

Or get that stop watch! Even better, there is a much better tuning tool than either a dyno or DH or AP monitoring -- a high grade accelerometer, such as the G-Tech Pro RR. It is about the same price as a DH but provides real time measurement of time, speed and distance measurements based on vehicle movement. It can make computer generated charts of all sorts of things. Attached is a chart made with my mods, showing exactly what the car is doing in terms of acceleration in every gear during a WOT run. And you can do a WOT in a single gear through any rpm range you want and see where any changes in performance are actually taking place.

Here are two charts - time v. speed and rpm v. speed. Note that you get artifact on the rpm chart when you completely lift the throttle at the end of the run, so disregard the big spikes at the end. And also note the effect of power or flat shifting at about 5,500-5,800 on each run.

I find tuning tools like this far more useful in evaluation whether a change is producing more power, but a good stopwatch will get you 90% there.

Dyno time gets expensive and can't really tell you as much as you think, especially if you cannot manage to do your before and after testing on the same day on the same machine with the same operator.

 

[spdjnke]

well that and also You have to take into account that theres no real forced air going into the TMIC like you would if you are driving down the road at 80,90 mph to get the load on the motor and air pushed through the intercooler.

 

[meicalnissyen]

One of the best, most useful and cheapest tuning tools is a $30 stopwatch measuring 60-100 times or 3k to 5.5k rpm wot runs in 4th gear before and after mods.

except for the 99mph ticket, thats not so cheep(nailbyt)

 

[MSMS3]

^ lol. Yeah, you gotta find a safe place to do this sort of thing. I have a local road out in the country that leads to and through a "subdivision" that was platted and went backrupt before any lots got sold. It is straight, flat and can let you get even up to 120 mph or so and still have room to stop easily. Absolutely do not do this kind of performance testing anywhere around other traffic or people, regardless of whether you are doing your pulls with a stopwatch, DH, AP or accelerometer.

And yes, objective performance out in the real world on a flat level surface with air entering the intercooler and your intake under real world conditions is always going to produce more accurate results than on a dyno.

For instance, I can tell you that actual usable wheel horsepower peaks in third gear and/or early fourth gear in our cars, rather than in fifth gear which is used for dyno pulls. That is because as speed increases aerodynamic drag starts affecting acceleration. The effect of drag becomes exponentially greater as speed goes up. It takes more and more power to produce the same units of increase in speed as speed increases. Strapping a car down to a chassis dyno is not the same as encountering air resistance at high speed. Stick your hand out the window at 100-120 mph. That's what your car is pushing against.

Didn't intend to jack the thread. Just trying to point out some useful ways to objectively compare performance before or after mods such as the actual performance gains of the Hypertech, without spending money on dyno pulls that may not be that useful.

 

[boosted1]

^ lol. Yeah, you gotta find a safe place to do this sort of thing. I have a local road out in the country that leads to and through a "subdivision" that was platted and went backrupt before any lots got sold. It is straight, flat and can let you get even up to 120 mph or so and still have room to stop easily. Absolutely do not do this kind of performance testing anywhere around other traffic or people, regardless of whether you are doing your pulls with a stopwatch, DH, AP or accelerometer.

And yes, objective performance out in the real world on a flat level surface with air entering the intercooler and your intake under real world conditions is always going to produce more accurate results than on a dyno.

For instance, I can tell you that actual usable wheel horsepower peaks in third gear and/or early fourth gear in our cars, rather than in fifth gear which is used for dyno pulls. That is because as speed increases aerodynamic drag starts affecting acceleration. The effect of drag becomes exponentially greater as speed goes up. It takes more and more power to produce the same units of increase in speed as speed increases. Strapping a car down to a chassis dyno is not the same as encountering air resistance at high speed. Stick your hand out the window at 100-120 mph. That's what your car is pushing against.

Didn't intend to jack the thread. Just trying to point out some useful ways to objectively compare performance before or after mods such as the actual performance gains of the Hypertech, without spending money on dyno pulls that may not be that useful.

Your knowledge and useful input is appreciated.(drive2)

 

[spdjnke]

I concure.

 

[MSMS3]

Thanks. Still learning about this platform, just like everyone else. Incredible little machine, the MS3, but Mazda has not make it easy for us, especially with their protective but smartass ECU.

But I have been modding, building and racing something fun constantly since 1970. Yeah, 40 years, first with built NA Mopar musclecars, but it's been a number of different European turbocharged cars since the '80's, typically with rebuilt or larger turbos, upgraded fuel systems, upgraded aftermarket ECU's or flashed ECU's and ALWAYS with bigger catless downpipes and good intakes.

Even the blind squirrel sometimes finds an acorn. Been lucky, learned a little and made some stupid mistakes. Sometimes learned it the hard way with expensive but worthless or incompatable mods, but no zoom, zoom, boom, so far.

Hypertech seems to be doing this the right way and I'm just about to jump on board, finally.

 

[boosted1]

Hypertech seems to be doing this the right way and I'm just about to jump on board, finally.

Come on in, the water's fine!(drive2)

 

[Jchouin1]

i've been following this thread for a while, simply out of curiousity for alternative tuning solutions. I'm having a hard time finding the appeal of this tune. For what you get, it's not cheap, has code bugs like other ots maps, and seems to not be very well calibrated to intakes from discussions I've read about bad ltft's. I can appreciate the ease of use with the "set it and forget it" type flash, but this isn't a Ronco food dehydrator, it's a car! For the price, even at 375.00 or whatever they can be found for at a discount, you don't have the ability to tune the ots maps or even monitor. It seems to me that regardless of how good the tuners are at Hypertech, the fact is that they are not tuning your specific car, which will most likely not behave the same way as the one they are using to create the maps.

I am certainly not hating on the product, so please don't take this the wrong way. I'm just curious why this product would be purchased over another one that costs marginally more and has a ton more functionality.

 

[Remspeed3]

i've been following this thread for a while, simply out of curiousity for alternative tuning solutions. I'm having a hard time finding the appeal of this tune. For what you get, it's not cheap, has code bugs like other ots maps, and seems to not be very well calibrated to intakes from discussions I've read about bad ltft's. I can appreciate the ease of use with the "set it and forget it" type flash, but this isn't a Ronco food dehydrator, it's a car! For the price, even at 375.00 or whatever they can be found for at a discount, you don't have the ability to tune the ots maps or even monitor. It seems to me that regardless of how good the tuners are at Hypertech, the fact is that they are not tuning your specific car, which will most likely not behave the same way as the one they are using to create the maps.

I am certainly not hating on the product, so please don't take this the wrong way. I'm just curious why this product would be purchased over another one that costs marginally more and has a ton more functionality.

Yeah your right its not an AP (if thats what your refering to) and never was meant to be in that type of tuning category, anytime you buy a tune there is the chance that it might not work as well on your car as it does with others, most of the problems I've seen is people using intakes that aren't calibrated in this module..so they pick another choice and hope that it works...theres a big difference between each intake out there so thats a problem to start...im not saying its a perfect tool cause I haven't installed mine yet to determine this, and its definitely not going to work for someone like you with all your mods you have, but IMO its a reasonable and simple bump in performance thats easy to use and maintains safe enough perameters to not have to worry about blowing your car up! + Alot of people including me would rather not have the choice to keep messing with the car in search of that so called perfect tune that doesn't exist!