HydrolocK engine's

BadApple

Ol' Skoo
:
2013 CX-5, 2002 Mazda Protege5
Okay, someone stated that it might be a good idea to inform the board about the danger of taking your P5 (or any car for that mater) into high water or the danger in not having a Bypass valve on you CAI to prevent your engine from hydrolock.

scorch70 said:
He is just asking that because this is the first anyone here has heard of mazdas getting hydrolocked (as far as I know). Have you two posted info about this on the board already and we missed it? If not, this is info that it would be good to let everyone know about so that we can try to avoid it (what the circumstances were when it happened, how fast you were going, etc).
Just my experience, but I have driven in a driving, hard rain for 200 miles, and no problems whatsoever. But I didnt hit any really big puddles.
scorch70
For most that are unaware what Hydrolocking your engine means in lamens terms, it is where your pistons Lock up when water enters your engine. When this happens you either have to rebuild the block or you need a new engine.

YOU WILL NOT HYDROLOCK YOUR ENGINE SIMPLY BY DRIVING IN THE RAIN!!! This will not cause your intake to suck in water...you will be fine...although to be safe, in the case of HIGH water you might want to invest in a bypass valve! Its like they say, "it is better to be safe than sorry" Now, what will cause you to hydrolock your engine is traveling into high watter, or water high enough where it is possible for it to reach your CAI.
when traveling though high watter it is also possible for water to enter your tail pipe, especially if you have a larger muffler. One thing to know about water entering your muffler is that as long as your engine is running and you have a steady flow of exhaust comming through the muffler you will be fine, that is if it hasnt reached your intake yet...
The point is, HYDROLOCKING CAN HAPPEN TO YOU IF YOU TRAVEL INTO DEEP WATER.....SO DONT TAKE THE CHANCE!
be safe, if you dont think you can make it through some high water, dont attempt it, play it safe.
I had to learn my lesson the hard way...
My car like most others on the board sits only 3 to 4 inches off the ground if that. It rained hard one day and flooded the streets...(not to the poing that a normal car with a stock lift and intake could not have made it home)...i attempted to follow a chevy Impalla out of my friends subdivision (thinking like a dumbass)
He made it,........I didnt!
The water was maybe 3 inches deep, it came up to the chasis.
I thought that i could make it because i have a short ram AEM intake. well i thought wrong...once i hit the watter my intake sucked enough water in to lock the engine and i came to harsh stop.
about $10,000 latter, here i am with a new engine, (luckly i only had to pay a $500 deductable and a little more for upgrading to a mazdaspeed engine, thank god for insurance)
If you didnt know before now you know...and, if you read all of this thinking that i am a DUMBASS, well you are probebly right...(sleep)
but one thing is for sure, dont end up like i did and make a stupid mistake!:D
 
How much did you pay over the $500 to upgrade to the turboed engine?

Now I have evil thoughts of hydrolocking my engine to get a cheap turboed engine. Heh heh heh . . . .
 
aceP5 said:
How much did you pay over the $500 to upgrade to the turboed engine?

Now I have evil thoughts of hydrolocking my engine to get a cheap turboed engine. Heh heh heh . . . .
I have a $500 deductable and i payed the mazda dealership roughly $2500 extra for the mazdaspeed engine (i think it was a little more than that)...it doesnt have a turbo right now but it is set up so that i can add a turbo when i get the money.

i think that they wanted like 5-6 thousand extra for the turbo as well....which is rediculous!!! so i would have had to pay 5-6 for the mazdaspeed and the turbo.
keep in mint the insurance company allready payed them about 10,000. (but this is because they also had to replace my throw bearing in the transmission and a couple of other things.
I love insurance companies...(first)
 
yea, it is a 2.0 DOHC. it is a little different. it does have a little more power than the regular P5 engine. I ran in the quarter stock with my P5 engine 17.2 and with the mazdaspeed engine i am running 16.1. it has a lot more torque than i had before, but it doesnt have as much top end.
I had to pay extra because of the name on the engine. because it is a mazdaspeed. what i actually did was pay the difference between the the insurance company paying for a stock P5 engine and what the dealership payed greenleaf for the mazdaspeed engine. (if that makes any sense)
The engine came out of a 2003 Mazdaspeed protege that was totaled when it had only 1200 miles on it....
 
There are no internal differences between the Protege FS-DE 2.0L DOHC and the Mazdaspeed Protege FS-DE 2.0L DOHC engines. Same block, same rods, same pistons, same everything. The MSP is a Protege with a turbo kit.
 
jersey_emt said:
There are no internal differences between the Protege FS-DE 2.0L DOHC and the Mazdaspeed Protege FS-DE 2.0L DOHC engines. Same block, same rods, same pistons, same everything. The MSP is a Protege with a turbo kit.
well all except for the Valve cover and the headers cover...yes you are correct these are basically the same engine. I do not understand the power increase i have recieved from the mazdaspeed engine but it is there. \some of you could probebly explain it better than i can.(shrug)
i wanted the mazdaspeed engine for the name...just to say that i have a mazdaspeed engine swap....
It can really help you out with the points at car shows! lol, i after i put my engine in i went to the Texas Heat Wave car show (The biggest car show in Texas!) and got 2nd in my catagory!(rofl)
http://www.texasheatwaveshow.com/thw/resultsthw04.htm
SCZS - Sport Car Mazda Street
<TABLE id=table1 style="WIDTH: 790px; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0 x:str><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 1px; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 1px; FONT-WEIGHT: 400; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; VERTICAL-ALIGN: bottom; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; COLOR: black; PADDING-TOP: 1px; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; WHITE-SPACE: nowrap; TEXT-DECORATION: none" align=middle width=363>2nd</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 1px; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 1px; FONT-WEIGHT: 400; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; VERTICAL-ALIGN: bottom; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; COLOR: black; PADDING-TOP: 1px; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; WHITE-SPACE: nowrap; TEXT-ALIGN: left; TEXT-DECORATION: none" width=204>PAUL</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 1px; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 1px; FONT-WEIGHT: 400; FONT-SIZE: 8pt; VERTICAL-ALIGN: bottom; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; COLOR: black; PADDING-TOP: 1px; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; FONT-STYLE: normal; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; WHITE-SPACE: nowrap; TEXT-ALIGN: left; TEXT-DECORATION: none" width=206>FOSTER</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
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Noxide said:
Okay, someone stated that it might be a good idea to inform the board about the danger of taking your P5 (or any car for that mater) into high water or the danger in not having a Bypass valve on you CAI to prevent your engine from hydrolock.
Not to mention that there's a chance that your car (and you) will be washed away if it's moving water. So u might end up dead as well.

But I'm surprised that your short ram AEM intake sucked in water. How low does that thing go?
 
this has been discussed to hell and back......but thats just my take on it.......
 
Douggie said:
Not to mention that there's a chance that your car (and you) will be washed away if it's moving water. So u might end up dead as well.

But I'm surprised that your short ram AEM intake sucked in water. How low does that thing go?
the filter is about half a foot to a foot away from the bottom of the front bumper.
not near as low as the long ram AEM intake...
 
Noxide said:
the filter is about half a foot to a foot away from the bottom of the front bumper.
not near as low as the long ram AEM intake...
So IF the water was 3 inches deep, how could it be sucked in? Splashes maybe? Were you going fast thru it?
 
well, from all the discussions weve had on here, i thought the only way to hyrdolock was if the filter became emerged in the water, not just splashed....there had to have been more than 3 inchs of water....
 
i'm gonna have to agree with mp3wannabe here. the monsoons hit tucson and the streets flood. i survived 6" of water with a CAI and no bypass valve for 2 monsoon seasons lowered on eibachs. there's no way 3" of water would have hydrolocked the engine. 3" is barely higher than the bottom of your wheel/tire combo.
 
mp3wannabe said:
well, from all the discussions weve had on here, i thought the only way to hyrdolock was if the filter became emerged in the water, not just splashed....there had to have been more than 3 inchs of water....
your right, 3 inches was a typo....although i did say the water came up to my chasis which would probebly lead you to believe that it was high enough for the front bumper to push water onto my intake which sucked the water up (considering that the front bumper is lower than the chasis)....i am sorry for the confusion...
 
Alright, so here's the long and the short of it. The only way to hydrolock your engine is to actually suck up an unburnable amount of water through the intake. Small amounts from splashes and stuff will evaporate due to the heat from the engine.

Anyway, think of it like a straw with holes it it at the bottom. Now, even if the end of the straw gets covered with water, water is much denser than air, thus is terribly difficult to actually move up the intake pipe (or straw). If there are still a decen amount of holes in the straw still in the air and not in the water, you will suck all, or at least almost all air up the straw. Same with an intake, if there is enough of the filter still over water level, the air will come from these parts of the filter before the wather will be sucked in. Thus, the filter will have to be almost completely submerged in the water, and you will have to be running decent throttle to actually suck up the water....even while coasting, your engine will probably stall before the water reaches the TB. A bypass valve merely opens when the suction becomes great enough (meaning there is some restriction at the filter end) so that a hole opens up near the top of the intake and it takes air from under the hood rather than continuing to suck water.

So, if the water goes up to your front bumper and you're running a CAI, I'd reccomend walking, or just staying in, otherwise, you're probably safe so long as you don't go through andy 2' puddles.
 
so how deep was the water really? im just curious because my old garage used to flood to the point of water up to my ankle, actually one time it was almost 7 inches deep...i didnt park my car in there, but the water wasnt anywhere near my filter....
 
mp3wannabe said:
so how deep was the water really? im just curious because my old garage used to flood to the point of water up to my ankle, actually one time it was almost 7 inches deep...i didnt park my car in there, but the water wasnt anywhere near my filter....

im not sure the exact depth of the water....i would say about 5-6 if not more...my car sits about 4-5 inches off the ground and it was up to my side skirts...
what happened was...the street i was on was not flooded so me and a friend thought that we could make it out of the subdivision and go to austin, seing that we were in houston. well we went down the street and turned the corner @ about 15-20 mph. (it was a gradual curve)
well we turned the corner and the we didnt realize the street droped off and was flooded. i couldnt stop in time and we ran right into the water. knowing that i couldnt back out because of the size of my muffler we traveled maybe 5-10 ft into the water before we stalled and the engine locked up. the car in front of us made it though ok. (assholes)
well we pushed the car to a dry spot took out the spark plugs and tried cranking it but it wouldnt turn over. right then i knew it the engine locked and i was screwed.
we towed it off to mazda and i i got a new engine, carpet (because me and a friend got in and out while we were wet because it was raining like the sky was falling), and i got a couple of other things done...
 
So wait, you paid $3000 for a used long block out of a Mazdaspeed without the turbo setup?

You got so ripped off. You could have bought a turbo kit plus a used FS longblock for that.

Britt
 

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