Howto: Rear Pad (disc) Replacement

[Brian48216]

To those of us that are trying to follow the service manual's instructions,
Just making sure, but the lock bolt that's described is hidden behind a piece of plastic right?

Do I just yank that plastic cover straight off?

Top notch write up otherwise!!!!

 

[wildo]

To those of us that are trying to follow the service manual's instructions,
Just making sure, but the lock bolt that's described is hidden behind a piece of plastic right?

I am not sure what you are referring to as a "lock bolt" but if you are referring to the bolt that you need to lossen to pull in the piston, then it is behind another bolt. The bolt looks like it just holds the ebreak mount in place, but sure enough- if you take it out, you will find an allen head bolt underneath. Hope this helps!

 

[Brian48216]

I am not sure what you are referring to as a "lock bolt" but if you are referring to the bolt that you need to lossen to pull in the piston, then it is behind another bolt. The bolt looks like it just holds the ebreak mount in place, but sure enough- if you take it out, you will find an allen head bolt underneath. Hope this helps!

Naw, the lock bolt is supposed to be the bolt that allows the whole assembly to swing out. If you check the service manual, it's listed as a part to remove during replacement of the rear pads. I just don't know what to do about that plastic covering as I'd rather not go about breaking things =\

 

[Gabio]

Did mine this weekend. I didn't remove the complete assambly. As you just need to unbold the 10mm bold behind the ruber covering, which is the top sleeve. This way the top caliper will just swing out. The drive's side had a sleeve seized. That's why the pads on one side was at 75% and the other was at 5%...
The way to got is to heat it with a torch and hit the caliper so it slide out. Of course the bushing will burn in the process and you need an other one, 4$ i think. This if the sleeve doesn't break up, then you'll need a new caliper for good.

 

[Leika]

thanks! this was so much help!

 

[Leika]

actually the previous mechanic didn't know about the allen key, so he was using a hammer on the piston. not cool. (tis why it was getting super hot, and was squiking at times)
i might need a whole new caliper, but for now we'll have to see.

 

[promike]

thanks

thanks for the how to on the rear brakes. i appreciate the help

 

[amsgator]

there is no adjustment for the front brakes like there is for the rear is there? w/ the piston?

 

[meGrimlock]

there is no socket to turn to retract the piston, if that is what you are asking. you just need a c-clamp or some other type of tool that can push the piston back. be sure to use the old pad or a piece of wood or something to put between the clamp and the piston so you dont inadvertantly damage the piston.

dont forget to watch the brake fluid as you push the piston back. this may force some brake fluid out of the resevoir as it did to mine. i loosened the cap & just placed some rags around the cap so it didnt squirt onto any paint or anything. press the pedal a few times to get the brake fluid going again and to get the piston back in position. the pedal feel should be a tiny bit firmer

 

[clicknext]

Question... if I'm only changing the pads, do I need to do most of that stuff? Can I just:

1. take off wheels
2. open the caliper with allen key
3. undo spring clips
4. take out pads
5. retract piston
6. insert new pads
7. put everything back together?

exactly like with the fronts for just pads?

 

[meGrimlock]

unhooking the brakeline does make life easier & you only need to unscrew 1 bolt to open the caliper up this way you dont need to remove the whole thing. checkout the shop manual to see which one (and also see what needs to be lubricated). the rest should be cake.

Question... if I'm only changing the pads, do I need to do most of that stuff? Can I just:

1. take off wheels
2. open the caliper with allen key
3. undo spring clips
4. take out pads
5. retract piston
6. insert new pads
7. put everything back together?

exactly like with the fronts for just pads?

 

[Lewis7789]

Just "finished" the rear brake pads on my '02 P5. Man, what a pain. I need to order new calipers. The drivers side seemed alright until I tried to adjust the 4mm allen bolt for the piston, it wouldn't back out far enough to let the wheel spin freely of the caliper, enough where I could really push it, but not freely. So I did the passenger side and that piston adjustment screw is stripped out, it wouldn't back out at all. So with the new pads, I had to wiggle the caliper back onto the rotor with a lot of muscle. The car will coast just fine, the caliper isn't trying to lock the rotors, thank god. But I'll still order some new calipers so I can adjust them correctly.

Just a heads up if anyone plans on replacing the rear pads and comes across the 4mm allen adjustment bolts being stripped. Same some extra cash for new calipers just in case.

Now for the drive home with a Dairy Queen stop as my reward. Haha.

 

[RYuReady]

I've read through all of the posts regarding the rear pads, but I still had a question. I have an MSP and I know that the rear piston will need to be screwed clockwise to retract the piston. My question is, do you have to screw the piston on tight until it touches the rotor, and unscrew the piston 1/4 - 1/3 turn like the P5/MP3/Protege (Step 12 of How-To) or is this unnecessary for the MSP?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Awesome How-To!

 

[pr5owner]

do any of you haev a problem taking the rear discs off a protege5? i think i have to pound mine off cuz they arent budging with the calipers off

 

[eting_pro5]

you need to lubricate the 2 caliper pins/sliders/bolts

Where are these caliper sliders?

 

[meGrimlock]

do any of you haev a problem taking the rear discs off a protege5? i think i have to pound mine off cuz they arent budging with the calipers off

do you mean the rotors?

the bolt that holds your scissor jack in the boot. use that to screw into the hole in the hub of the rotor. with enough screwing (idhitit) clockwise, it should make a "ping" noise and pop the rotor loose.

 

[eting_pro5]

There is pretty much zero clearance between my new pads and new rotor when I back the piston off as much as possible. After resetting the piston (backing it off 1/3 of a turn), pumping the brake pedal (with engine on) and then trying to rotate the hub/rotor by hand, there is a decent amount of drag. Is this normal?

 

[meGrimlock]

There is pretty much zero clearance between my new pads and new rotor when I back the piston off as much as possible. After resetting the piston (backing it off 1/3 of a turn), pumping the brake pedal (with engine on) and then trying to rotate the hub/rotor by hand, there is a decent amount of drag. Is this normal?

i remember there was a bit of resistance when spinning the rotor by hand for a "test" spin. as long as you dont hit any snags, or the resistance is unbelievably stiff, you should be fine.

the real test is the slow drive around the block. (nervous) drive slow and remember to bed-in the pads according to the instructions. be ready for a slightly firmer pedal feel and be wary of strange noises or vibrations.

 

[clicknext]

My pads say they don't need bed-in because they're "scorched". My rotors are new too, though. Do I still need to do the bed-in?

And how do you guys find a place to do this?? There is nowhere near my place where you can safely do lots of sudden braking, and never stop.

 

[meGrimlock]

My pads say they don't need bed-in because they're "scorched". My rotors are new too, though. Do I still need to do the bed-in?

And how do you guys find a place to do this?? There is nowhere near my place where you can safely do lots of sudden braking, and never stop.

again, it depends on the brand's recommendations. if you live in a quiet neighborhood just do a few low speed drive bys up and down the street at first