02Protege'5
Member
- :
- '02 P5
Got an oxegen assetaline (sp?) torch?
Heat the bastads up, carefuly of course
Heat the bastads up, carefuly of course
Howto: Rear Pad (disc) Replacement
- Thread starter niv
- Start date
plumbing torch eh? so heating it would would help huh? hmm.. I definitely don't have a blow torch so I suppose I may have to take you up on that. In the meantime, I tried to buy antiseize spray at autozone (i don't even know why mazda put lug nuts on our wheels... but anyway) guys there were clueless. never heard of the stuff. does it go by a different name?
SIBalla23 said:
not a problem, used to be a semi-mechanic, got bunch of stuff kicking around, I also used it on the threads of spark plugs actually can use it with alot of things, anyways glad I could help, if you need the torch let me know. I'll be around friday and saturday, but going up to F1 boston on sunday
Ummm guys... My rear brakes did NOT look anything like the pictures. I did not have a piston rewinder behind a fake bolt. All I had was just the one bolt next to the one you guys claimed was a cap.
Instead my pistons had the indents on the face that have to be screwed in by a special brake rewinder tool. Forunately I have one for my 99 Jetta and it fit my calipers as well.
Am I the only one?
I wound up not being able to replace the pads because car quest sold me the wrong pads. They were supposed to be part #RD332 but their computer showed RD 679 or something llike that. They had to special order my pads and said that they were a bastard size that is normally not stocked. WTF?
Instead my pistons had the indents on the face that have to be screwed in by a special brake rewinder tool. Forunately I have one for my 99 Jetta and it fit my calipers as well.
Am I the only one?
I wound up not being able to replace the pads because car quest sold me the wrong pads. They were supposed to be part #RD332 but their computer showed RD 679 or something llike that. They had to special order my pads and said that they were a bastard size that is normally not stocked. WTF?
this how-to is specific to the ES/P5/MP3 and Japanese/Australian spec variants with rear disc brakes.... this how-to does NOT apply to the MSP and european versions, the pistons on those cars are retracted DIRECTLY from the piston themselves... thus also WAY easier to work on them!
3rd gen RX-7 rear brake pads will fit the MSP rears, they are the same size but friction material may differ if the pad manufacturer chose to make the pads "different" in their catalog
3rd gen RX-7 rear brake pads will fit the MSP rears, they are the same size but friction material may differ if the pad manufacturer chose to make the pads "different" in their catalog
Thanks for clearing that up, I didn't realize that and here I was following your directions! I still managed though. Your first link worked. I am posting the picture from that site to indicated the pistons.
But if you see the indent I am pointing at, there is another one just like it on the opposite side. You have to take this tool (http://www.premiertools.co.uk/cat156_1.htm) that has a round disk on the end of a shaft with two nipples on it and while applying pressure to the piston, twist CW. I can't remember if the MSP has a piston boot but if it does, just make sure that the boot is free from the piston by running a screw driver around the lip of the rubber.
But whatever you do, do not try to compress the piston with a C-Clamp, it simply won't work. It is threaded and the reason for that is so that when you set the park brake, it "winds" out until it hits the disc. I learned that the hard way when I first ran into these on my Jetta. I was cranking on that clamp for almost an hour!
But if you see the indent I am pointing at, there is another one just like it on the opposite side. You have to take this tool (http://www.premiertools.co.uk/cat156_1.htm) that has a round disk on the end of a shaft with two nipples on it and while applying pressure to the piston, twist CW. I can't remember if the MSP has a piston boot but if it does, just make sure that the boot is free from the piston by running a screw driver around the lip of the rubber.
But whatever you do, do not try to compress the piston with a C-Clamp, it simply won't work. It is threaded and the reason for that is so that when you set the park brake, it "winds" out until it hits the disc. I learned that the hard way when I first ran into these on my Jetta. I was cranking on that clamp for almost an hour!
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- :
- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
TheMAN said:
man, those calipers look so nice clean!
they just need a fresh coat of desired color on them.......
hyperboarder
Member
- :
- 2002 MP5
Great write up, did mine tonight, no problems.
hyperboarder
Member
- :
- 2002 MP5
Both Rotors and Pads, no problems at all on the back. The front rotors needed some coaxing in the form of a mallet, but after about 3 hits, slid right off. The only time consuming issue I had was one allen screw on the front not letting go. Everything else went very smoothly. Have you tried PB Blaster yet?
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- '08 Jetta; '10 Wrangler Unlimited
i had to beat the piss out of all four rotors to get them off when i put my brembo's on a bunch of months ago......just used a hammer........
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