How To: UDP Install

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Car in 5th gear, wife in car mashing on the brakes. Me with 1/2" breaker bar with 2ft extension (my jack handle). Slow, gradual pressure and it comes off pretty easy (counter-clockwise to loosen). An impact wrench won't cut it...
 
viVid said:
Car in 5th gear, wife in car mashing on the brakes. Me with 1/2" breaker bar with 2ft extension (my jack handle). Slow, gradual pressure and it comes off pretty easy (counter-clockwise to loosen). An impact wrench won't cut it...

This sounds so much cheaper than getting an electric impact wrench and impact socket set. hmm. Now if only I had something to hold my brakes down :(

EDIT: the nice thing about the UDP install vs. a cam install is that for the UDP install, you need the impact to start. If you don't have one you can just go pick up one. With a cam install, when you realise that to get to the tensioner you need to remove the crank pulley (wtf?) the car isn't driveable. It's easy to slip the timing belt off the cam gears, not so easy the other way around.
 
The pulley isnt smaller for weight reasons its so the engine doesnt have to turn the acc's as much every revolution so it takes less effort to turn them all. Doh
 
Laser03pro said:
The pulley isnt smaller for weight reasons its so the engine doesnt have to turn the acc's as much every revolution so it takes less effort to turn them all. Doh

Well that and it's lighter. The stock crank pulley is way heavy.
 
I think I'm going to install mine tomorrow finally... had the thing sitting around for two years I think. hahaha
 
HorsepowerFreak said:
I think I'm going to install mine tomorrow finally... had the thing sitting around for two years I think. hahaha

! I've barely been able to contain myself knowing that my racing beat rear swaybar with new endlinks, MP3 ECU, new bushings for my front AWR motor mount, and 323 emblem are waiting for me when I drive back to college today.

You must have been really, really busy for the past two years. I'd put almost anything off to install stuff on my car, even if I lack the tools and/or knowledge to do the install (*thinks back to my intake cam install*).

Which one do you have, the RR racing or the Unorhodox Racing? I wonder if they are any different at all (size/weight).
 
Dude.... I have cam gears, full SR pulley kit, polished/cut valve cover (for cam gears), UDP, intake manifold/t-body spacers, brake lines, gauges, etc, etc that have been sitting around forever. And recently added some CF pieces to the pile. Yeah, that's very sad, huh?

I ended up selling an intake cam I had.

But yeah... Today is mass mod day. We are working on a 4G63 Colt (I posted pics on the pic forum a couple weeks ago), and I gotta bust some of this stuff out for this season on my car (I show and race it).

*I have Unorthodox Racing.... they're a sponsor of the car (I have the clutch and flywheel now).
 
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I started a GB a few weeks ago, and I came across a problem. If you pull out your old pulley, you'll see empty space behind the pulley, and if you look at the RR-Racing UDP, the pulley is screwed to the timing wheel (teeth).

there's a little "dimple" on the bottom of the timing belt cover (right under the crank) you might need to file down that makes contact to your UDP (I think it warped from the heat I guess).

What happened was my pulley was making a ticking sound, and I had to figure out what that noise was, and it ended up being the UDP rubbing against the timing belt cover.

All in all, it's a great product. Belts arn't that much smaller than the stock belts.

I had my lights on, radio blasting, and ac running on idle...I tested the battery to make sure it's keeping a charge, and it's at 14 volts!

BTW, for those of you that don't have an impact gun, here's an easy way of taking out your pulley...

Using a ratchet with a metal pipe through the handle (cheater bar) or long breaker bar & a 21mm socket. Put it on the pulley bolt with the handle to the right (front) of the car (with the handle end touching the floor). Now crank your car with the ignition (do not start it). What happens is that the engine spins clock-wise and to remove the bolt you have to turn counter-clock-wise. So you're just using the engine to remove the bolt. (I've done this hundreds of times, it's easy to do, just make sure no one is near the ratchet/breaker bar). Also, it does not work on Hondas (or any engine that turns counter clock-wise) Hope this helps.

WiL
 
ke20sprinter said:
BTW, for those of you that don't have an impact gun, here's an easy way of taking out your pulley...

Using a ratchet with a metal pipe through the handle (cheater bar) or long breaker bar & a 21mm socket. Put it on the pulley bolt with the handle to the right (front) of the car (with the handle end touching the floor). Now crank your car with the ignition (do not start it). What happens is that the engine spins clock-wise and to remove the bolt you have to turn counter-clock-wise. So you're just using the engine to remove the bolt. (I've done this hundreds of times, it's easy to do, just make sure no one is near the ratchet/breaker bar). Also, it does not work on Hondas (or any engine that turns counter clock-wise) Hope this helps.

WiL

lol... I use to do that all the time.

Probably not a great idea, but it gets the job done.

Same sort of concept when doing suspension w/ out spring compressors. 1 foot on the spring and zip the nut off.... watch that sucker zing.

H4CK 1N5T4LL5 4 L1F3
 
I don't know if this has been done or not yet, but I put this into a PDF. I am getting ready to install and wanted to print it out with the pictures and all so here it is for you guys and gals.
 

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That's pretty cool....

Really dumbs it down for an easy install. :)
 
Does anyone know where I can get the RR-racing UDP?? They seem to be cheaper than the Unorthodox one's.
 
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