How To: Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or disassemble gears

I did strech and looked everywhere. Couldnt find it. And yes my whole cluster doesnt work, ill check the fuse though for it. and all my plugs are tight, I re checked them.

Just that 1 sensor thats on the front (radiator side) of the transmission, cant find where that plugs into
 
Update, I got one of the plugs backwards fixed it, now everything works but the speedometer, there is a plug on the one under the throttle body but is there another plug down there to that I cant see?
 
the speedo sensor will be the one on the rear top side (close to the rear motor mount)

Should be where I circled in red...

15xrdqf.jpg
 
The wire I am missing is the one that is connected to the ground, like on same bundle. I cant find where that one is plugged into though, everything is plugged in except that.
 
Thanks a TON for this writeup! I just used it to change a clutch. I've done a ton of clutch/trans swaps on Hondas, but this was my first Mazda. Not all that bad.


I enjoy working on other cars to get an idea of engine/engine components basic designs that diff. manufacturers use. For example, on this Mazda (03 MSP) there is a bolt with nut that connects the shift linkage to the trans. On our Honda's there is a "b****" pin. It's an expanding roll pin. An absolute pain to get out.
 
What did you guys use to get the transaxle off and back on the car? Is it worth getting a transmission jack or will a normal trolley jack work?
 
On my other car I used a regular jack with a piece of plywood. I'm strong enough that when it teetered I was able to correct it enough to get it on and off without much fuss.
 
livelyjay said:
On my other car I used a regular jack with a piece of plywood. I'm strong enough that when it teetered I was able to correct it enough to get it on and off without much fuss.
Click to expand...

I think that's what I might end up doing, I'm having trouble finding a place that'll even sell me a tranny jack...
 
I've been reading around and some tutorials mention putting something like a dowel into the differential before removing the transaxle from the car. The service manual even has an SST (49 B027 006) which is used to "hold the side gears after drive shaft is removed" (see page 03-13-10).

My question is, what purpose does that SST serve? And do I need to worry about getting one?
 
It's the safe way to do it, but usually not really necessary. It keeps the side gears in the differential from becoming displaced if you jolt the transmission good while removing or installing it. Pretty much requires that you disassemble the transmission to get things back into place.... but I've never actually seen it happen before.

The easiest thing to use (if you have them handy) is the inside ends of axles with the circlips removed. But anything that fits into the axle holes without getting stuck will work just fine (deep sockets, a broom handle, whatever)
 
dmention7 said:
It's the safe way to do it, but usually not really necessary. It keeps the side gears in the differential from becoming displaced if you jolt the transmission good while removing or installing it. Pretty much requires that you disassemble the transmission to get things back into place.... but I've never actually seen it happen before.

The easiest thing to use (if you have them handy) is the inside ends of axles with the circlips removed. But anything that fits into the axle holes without getting stuck will work just fine (deep sockets, a broom handle, whatever)
Click to expand...

Cool, I get it now. Thanks!
 
I'd like to thank TurfBurn and everyone who's contributed to this thread for helping me get my clutch changed. This guide helped me through the whole process :)

That being said, I'd like to share my experience for anyone else who's about to try attempting this.

I found that you don't need to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle to free the axles, you can unbolt the control arm (5 17mm bolts) and unbolt the hub from the strut (2 17mm nuts/bolts). If you have a good impact wrench this is the way to go, otherwise you risk damaging the ball joint dust boot.

Another thing I ended up doing was removing both both the driver-side axle and the joint-shaft on the passenger side. This makes removing and installing the transaxle sooooo much easier; it's worth the extra 30-60min to remove the joint-shaft and put it back in.

Once again, thank you all, this thread is win.
 
Seems like it might be time to repost the link in my sig. =)
 
Help!

I followed your instructions to a tee, awsome, by the way! trans back in car, and now Po850 trouble code, I changed the sensor and still the same! what did I do wrong, did I assemble something worng? help, help, help!!!
 
Thanks for this writeup. Along with the SM, it helped me replace the following on my 02 PR5 w/113k miles, taking place over the Turduckin Day Holiday:
-Clutch
-Pressure Plate
-Pilot Bearing
-Release Collar (aka Throwout Bearing)
-Main Oil Seal (aka Crankshaft Oil Seal)
-Differential Oil Seals (Left & Right)

Some comments & things I learned:
-Transmission Jack rental simplified things a great deal. I personally wouldn't consider doing this without one
-[idiot alert on] Supporting the engine correctly is critical while removing the bolts holding the bracket that attaches to the rear mount. I did have a jack & hockey puck under the oil pan, but the engine wasn't quite at the right angle. I ended up stripping all three bolts as well as the female threads on the transmission casing. Next time, I'll leave the driver side mount attached before removing the three bolts holding the tranny to the bracket on the rear mount. I think it's much less likely to strip the driver side mount bolts & studs since the studs & bolts are oriented vertically, as opposed to the rear mount bolts which are horizontal.[idiot alert off]
-Autozone/O'Reilly's loans a Thread Restorer kit which can be used for restoring worn threads. Make sure the kit includes a tap that is 12mm x 1.25mm (aka fine). This worked on all three holes on the tranny casing that I had damaged. I replaced the bolts as well, two bolts are 65mm long and one is 80mm long, also 12mm x 1.25mm obviously.
-After getting her all buttoned up, the car had a very strange intermittent electrical issue that turned out to be caused by a broken battery connector. One replacement connector later, and I'm back in business.
-I removed the passenger side joint/drive shaft assembly as someone suggested by removing the two bolts holding the knuckle to the strut, then removing the three bolts holding the joint shaft bracket (below the oil filter). I then supported the knuckle with a metal coat hanger hooked around the spring. The shaft assembly pulled out just enough to not bind on the tranny during removal. It only took 10 min to do this, and I think made tranny removal & install much easier.
-I spent a total of around 15-20 hours over 5 days. I'd do it again if I had to, but knock on wood that I don't.
-After regreasing all the right spots with the included moly grease plus some MT-90, everything is as smooth as butter.
 
ok im having a serious issue here with my diff replacement...I removed the roll pin from the shift linkage and lifted up the shafts and the taller shaft with all the gears and all totally slid out so i got that back in after installing the new lsd but now i CAN NOT get those linkages lined up in order to get the roll pin back in!! i spent 7 hours today just trying to do that! Whats the trick here folks im pulling my hair out over this thing! Any help and or pics would be greatly appreciated! the shafts just will not go in the correct position to line the pin up.
 
There are some pics and mention of the position of the shift forks in order for everything to line up on the first few pages. I had to wedge something against the ball with the spring behind it to keep it in position against the notch.
 
huh? dosent the pin go in before that ball and spring?? the ball and spring go into the gear case that isnt even bolted on when your trying to line that pin up..
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
    • Like
Guide How to rebuild 2017 CX-5 Rear brake piston (didn't put into maintenance mode)
Replies
3
Views
954
oakpwr
O
1
What is the Best Way to Remove the Front Strut Mount and Re-Install the Swaybar?
Replies
8
Views
2K
16vPete
1
concept
2 hours to change the oil.....
Replies
12
Views
3K
BrianM3GS
B

Latest posts

Back