Guide: How To Remove/Install Tranny and LSD or Disassemble Gears

[maxchao]

Cool thanks a lot! Will it still be easy to unbolt just the driver side axle nut? It looks I will have to do that for changing out the wheel bearing at the same time, so that might not be an option for me anyway, but if I can prevent tackle with the other axle nut, I might as well not to.

Also it seems like in the end the engine will be hanging with just the passenger side engine mount? I know a jack should be placed below but with two holding point is the engine stable enough for all the tackling on the transmission? I don't want the engine slip off the jack, break the engine mount and fall on any part of my body..

(and btw the special engine hanger SST from Mazda cost $950!! I just found out about that)

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Cool thanks a lot! Will it still be easy to unbolt just the driver side axle nut? It looks I will have to do that for changing out the wheel bearing at the same time, so that might not be an option for me anyway, but if I can prevent tackle with the other axle nut, I might as well not to.

Getting the nut loose should be easy, after un-staking it, you'll need a 32mm socket and a looooooong breaker bar (I used 1m-long metal pipe to extend mine). Then use hammer an a large pointy punch in the middle of the axle to pop it out (there's a dimple in the axle to keep the punch in the middle),

Also it seems like in the end the engine will be hanging with just the passenger side engine mount? I know a jack should be placed below but with two holding point is the engine stable enough for all the tackling on the transmission? I don't want the engine slip off the jack, break the engine mount and fall on any part of my body..

Yeah, don't do this!

(and btw the special engine hanger SST from Mazda cost $950!! I just found out about that)

Harbor Freight sells one for $75, I used it and it worked great: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

 

[br289165]

I bought that Harbor freight brace wouldn't do it without, for safety.

Getting the nut loose should be easy, after un-staking it, you'll need a 32mm socket and a looooooong breaker bar (I used 1m-long metal pipe to extend mine). Then use hammer an a large pointy punch in the middle of the axle to pop it out (there's a dimple in the axle to keep the punch in the middle),



Yeah, don't do this!



Harbor Freight sells one for $75, I used it and it worked great: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

 

[maxchao]

Cool got it! Thanks for the link! I guess I might as well just drop axle on both side.

The only question left now is...How does the axel pop out when you punch in the middle? The other side is the transmission right? Or does the CV Joint bend and so the axle comes out?

Once it pops out I can take it out of the transmission as well right? Or there is some kinda lock on the transmission side? I can't figure those out by looking at the manual and the DIY.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Cool got it! Thanks for the link! I guess I might as well just drop axle on both side.

The only question left now is...How does the axel pop out when you punch in the middle? The other side is the transmission right? Or does the CV Joint bend and so the axle comes out?

Once it pops out I can take it out of the transmission as well right? Or there is some kinda lock on the transmission side? I can't figure those out by looking at the manual and the DIY.

Look back through the manual, there are good pictures.

You pop the axle out of the joint shaft using a stick and a hammer, then once the joint shaft is unbolted from the engine you should be able to tug it out of the transmission.

 

[maxchao]

OK. I will trust you and just pop it out with a hammer and a stick. I am just extra cautious with hammer...things don't usually break until I start using hammer.

Thanks for all the help. Now I will gather all the parts and tools and do it!

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Don't trust me, trust the service manual.

From page 03-13-4:

 

[maxchao]

Oh ok! Now it makes sense. When I saw that picture the first time I thought it's the driver side wheel. I guess it's supposed to be the passenger side wheel. Being working a lot overtime lately my brain is not running very straight

 

[maxchao]

My clutch replace project was completed successfully! Thanks a lot for the How To! Helped tremendously.

It took me 40 hours in total. Well there was a lot of sidetracks and I am just slow on working on my car generally. I can't help but play with parts when they are outside of the car and wipe them down one by one.

Anyway, I was surprised to see that the drive shaft not only can be rotated around but it can also retract/extend! That's why one can use hammer to punch the shaft out of the steering knuckle. I didn't/wasn't able to separate the drive shaft and the joint shaft. Although I didn't really have to either. I just took the whole thing out after I punch it out of the steering knuckle.

I unbolted the axle nut. I think it is just easier that way (at least on the passenger side). I had to take out the control arm on the driver side anyway though because I broke the ball joint dust shield with the steering knuckle...The control arm is a bxtch to put back on...

All in all that was a fun project. The biggest I have so far. The new clutch feels great!

 

[808MP5]

anybody know the part numbers for the tranny seals(axle(s) and input shaft)?

 

[Smitty1017]

oK. i finished my LSD/Clutch/flywheel job and I have a small (maybe huge) problem. What are those really long golden like 10-12mm bolts that goes straight up into the bottom of the engine where the tranny and engine meet for? only the end like 1/2" of them are threaded. I broke one off in there....no pieces are in there floating around or anything, but I cant get it tight now. 3 of the 4 are in. Only way to rectify this is to redo pretty much the entire job. The car does run and drive now but I am afraid to do much with it until I know what those bolts are for. anyone know?

 

[808MP5]

Does anyone by any chance know what the part numbers are for the two bearings that go on top of the secondary and primary shaft are?

I wanna replace my third gear but don't know how to find those two carrier bearings.

*edit
think i found it...
Part# G5P017180A

if i'm wrong or correct... maybe someone else can chime in

 

[Demoniam]

Anyone know what might be keeping the tranny from going into 5th gear? It shifts in to all other gears just fine, after the LSD swap. Not sure what is up.

 

[Donutz]

Did you bench shift the trans both with the case off, and after reassembling it but before you installed the 5th gear cover? Some things off the top of my head:

- check your shifter cables
- check the cotter pin in the 5th gears
- check to make sure the the shift forks are aligned
- reverse lock out mechanism was misaligned

I know the last 3 will be a pain. What does it feel like when you try to shift to 5th? Is it locked out? Perhaps the reverse lock out mechanism is misaligned; can you shift to reverse?

 

[Demoniam]

I was asking for a friend who is doing the swap. he said everything shifted fine on the table, and in the car, everything but 5th works, including reverse. Hopefully he will chime in soon.

 

[bgibb68]

Yeah.....its going into 5thtranny using a screwdriver...with the linkage hooked up it goes in but will pop out like 3rdyou will with bad mounts??

 

[Donutz]

Are the linkages twisted over each other? Were both the trans and shifter in neutral when you hooked up the cables?

 

[bgibb68]

Are the linkages twisted over each other? Were both the trans and shifter in neutral when you hooked up the cables?

Cables?? Its a one piece shaft

 

[Donutz]

Sorry, I meant the shift linkage.

 

[bgibb68]

so i've reseated the shifter but still no 5th....just pops out. with a screwdriver, not the shitfer i could swear it goes in and it doesnt pop out of 5th. I'm out of ideas....i've pulled the cover off and here are 2 pics of the 5th....any one see anything that i don't? how far does it move to engage 5th?