I can't really tell by the pictures but is the PCV located near the center of the front bumper? If thats the case I will look into installing the catch can on the other side where my air deflector used to be (Uninstalled because of CAI). I know last time I did an oil change my horn was right in my face. I also remember seeing numerous mounting possabilities.
How to MS3 Catch Can Install with tons of pics.
- Thread starter JimmyMac
- Start date
When you are doing an oil change, or whenever you get under the car again. Take a look at where the dip stick enters the oil pan/engine. Locate the entry point and look straight up, you'll see the PCV hose right there between the intake manifold and the engine. Basically, the intake manifold.... folds right over the PCV valve. So you can't get to it without taking off the intake manifold. But you can get to the hose from under it.
Picture 8 shows the location of the PCV hose. Read the description and it'll somewhat explain what you are looking at. Now if you look at the pic, that blurred out black shaft in the center of the pic is heading straight up into the blurry silver cylinder. That right there is the dip stick sleeve. Hope that helps you more with the location of everything.
One drop of oil came out after one week of using it. Today I did my oil change and checked it out. On another forum I was asked if the AutoZone PCV will work under a vacuum (meaning is it too strong and will not open during vacuum? or will it open under a vacuum?). Well the PCV does work propery. Letting the car idle on my ramps. I slowly opened up the drain on my OCC and the idle started to change. Stuck my finger over the drain plug and I could feel the vacuum. So it works.
Just thought I'd post that info up.
Just thought I'd post that info up.
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you aren't going to have tons of oil in there. usually after a week there is about an ounce or so. here is what the saikou michi guy told me about why it doesn't always drain a lot:
The reason is, that the drain sticks up in side about 3/8" so there could be almost this much oil caught and it would not drain because it is not high enough to reach the height of the threads.
oaklandopen
Member
pardon my ignorance....
is a catch can used to strain oil from the crankcase ventilation before it enters the intake?
is a catch can used to strain oil from the crankcase ventilation before it enters the intake?
I edited it. Sorry, forgot to specify which drain. Would not make sense to open up my oil pan drain plug while idling the car haha!
On another forum, I was suppose to post an update to this install. It involves changing out the Autozone pcv with an oem pcv. This will make sure you do not pressurize the OCC. The Autozone pcv may or may not be able to hold down the boost. So to be sure, use another factory one instead. I did not really update anyone here. So here is a cut/paste from the other forum;
I did not get to install the new factory PCV this weekend. I had other things going on. But I was out shopping for a solution for an adapter piece to hook up the factory PCV to connect it after the OCC. Here is a pic of the factory PCV. I'll also put this pic up at the top of the page in the install once it is done. But the green side is the side that faces the intake manifold. The orange side will face the OCC. When installing this PCV inline, you must have the orange part hanging straight down vertically. If you don't. There is a small chance of boost leak and you will pressurized your OCC. I noticed this while blowing into it at different angles to see how it would react. When holding the PCV on it's side sometimes it would seal. Sometimes it would not. With the PCV straight up and down it would seal all the time. This is due to the check valve/ball that is free floating in there.
Also note that the green side is close to 5/8". So this will slide into a 5/8" hose just fine. However the orange side is only about 1/2". So sliding it into a 5/8" hose is very very loose. My solution is to buy a small hose and mount it over the orange side. Then slide the 5/8" hose over that. It's pretty simple. Lowes sells some clear hose that is about 28 a foot. It is 5/8" outter diameter and 1/2" inner. So it'll be a good fit. I'll post pics of this in the install once I do it.
Anyways, here is the pic of the oem PCV with part number.
I did not get to install the new factory PCV this weekend. I had other things going on. But I was out shopping for a solution for an adapter piece to hook up the factory PCV to connect it after the OCC. Here is a pic of the factory PCV. I'll also put this pic up at the top of the page in the install once it is done. But the green side is the side that faces the intake manifold. The orange side will face the OCC. When installing this PCV inline, you must have the orange part hanging straight down vertically. If you don't. There is a small chance of boost leak and you will pressurized your OCC. I noticed this while blowing into it at different angles to see how it would react. When holding the PCV on it's side sometimes it would seal. Sometimes it would not. With the PCV straight up and down it would seal all the time. This is due to the check valve/ball that is free floating in there.
Also note that the green side is close to 5/8". So this will slide into a 5/8" hose just fine. However the orange side is only about 1/2". So sliding it into a 5/8" hose is very very loose. My solution is to buy a small hose and mount it over the orange side. Then slide the 5/8" hose over that. It's pretty simple. Lowes sells some clear hose that is about 28 a foot. It is 5/8" outter diameter and 1/2" inner. So it'll be a good fit. I'll post pics of this in the install once I do it.
Anyways, here is the pic of the oem PCV with part number.
Thanks Jimmy! How much does an OEM PCV cost?
What's the other board that you've posted your How-To on (not M3F.com)?
*edit* thanks once again for all the info. Stuff like a second PCV, or blowing into it to check for leaks in various orientations, are things I would never think of. This is a great post!
*double edit* Found the other post... MSF.org
What's the other board that you've posted your How-To on (not M3F.com)?
*edit* thanks once again for all the info. Stuff like a second PCV, or blowing into it to check for leaks in various orientations, are things I would never think of. This is a great post!
*double edit* Found the other post... MSF.org
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First look for me at this How to. Very nice work and admirable that you have advised others. That cup kinda freaks me out and now i need to re look at the theories on why our car benefits from the catch can. Thanks for getting me interested again! I just wish you had added to your brownprint, radiused edges on the plate! ha good work all around JM
Thanks!
My theory on the gas in the cup is the WOT box. Not sure if you know what that is. But it cuts ignition so you can have a nice smooth shift while keeping the gas planted to the floor while you shift. It also lets you hold boost better between shifts. Anyways, it cuts ignition. But the fuel is still injected into the cylinders. So it's unburnt and most passes out the tail pipe. But I'm sure there's some good blow by in the cylinders.
Of course this might be normal. I haven't really seen anyone else post pics of their OCC deposits. Our cars do run pig rich from the factory. My a/f's are in the 10s during WOT. It'll even dip down into the 9's towards redline.
But it's something I'll be looking into.
As for the brownprint... I left my quarters in the house. So I had nothing to trace with. So I couldn't do the radius for ya... Sorry... LoL
My theory on the gas in the cup is the WOT box. Not sure if you know what that is. But it cuts ignition so you can have a nice smooth shift while keeping the gas planted to the floor while you shift. It also lets you hold boost better between shifts. Anyways, it cuts ignition. But the fuel is still injected into the cylinders. So it's unburnt and most passes out the tail pipe. But I'm sure there's some good blow by in the cylinders.
Of course this might be normal. I haven't really seen anyone else post pics of their OCC deposits. Our cars do run pig rich from the factory. My a/f's are in the 10s during WOT. It'll even dip down into the 9's towards redline.
But it's something I'll be looking into.
As for the brownprint... I left my quarters in the house. So I had nothing to trace with. So I couldn't do the radius for ya... Sorry... LoL
Ha, that is alright in your production run I am sure your print will addendum "break all edges'. Yep the cars are mostly rich, but I might worry of injecting too much fuel without full spark. A little is probably good for cooling chamber. Is your car set up for drag? Thanks
No, my car prefers to wear pants... But thanks for asking....
I would say my car is setup more for street than anything. Not drag. Not autox. It's a balance of ride height and stiffness that's not to low and not too stiff. I prefer to play in the twisties more than anything. But when those aren't around, on and off ramps can be fun too. I don't go looking for races. But when the opportunity presents itself... I like to have fun.
I still don't know what to think about what came out of the OCC. I guess we'll see what else comes out in a few weeks.
I would say my car is setup more for street than anything. Not drag. Not autox. It's a balance of ride height and stiffness that's not to low and not too stiff. I prefer to play in the twisties more than anything. But when those aren't around, on and off ramps can be fun too. I don't go looking for races. But when the opportunity presents itself... I like to have fun.
I still don't know what to think about what came out of the OCC. I guess we'll see what else comes out in a few weeks.
