How To: MP3/P5/MSP Front & rear Pad/Rotor Change (No 56K)

[TXMazdaSpeeder]

time for a mazdaspeed brake upgrade

 

[Pmpkinhead]

Great info, Thanks!!!

 

[YuYuRena]

Anybody got some good hints on how to loosen the allen bolt? I can't get it to move.

Also, I know this sounds stupid, but loosening the bolt is left from engine looking out or outside looking toward engine?

 

[Swerny]

For the rears on the MSP there is no "set screw" type deal like the regular proteges and you don't even need an allen wrench or anything, so they're actually easier than the fronts. All you do is take the caliper off (easy, just 1 bolt plus the e-brake bolt) and then you'll see that the piston on the rear is a "screw-type" piston with a >< indentation in it. Rather than use a C-clamp to compress the piston like did you do with the fronts, just take a needle-nose pliers and screw the piston in by twisting it clock-wise. It turns somewhat hard so make sure you have a good grip on the pliers and it's a good pair of pliers. Mine took 1 and 1/2 full turns in order to get the clearance needed to slip it over the new pads. You'll need to turn it in 1/2 turn (180 degree) increments because the >< needs to line up with the notches on the back of the brake pad. That's pretty much it though -- they're actually really easy because no retarded "hidden" set screw to mess with.

Can anyone help me with this.
It's -17 degrees outside with the windchill and I'm trying to do this in my driveway.
I have made like 20 turns of the piston, and still can't get enough clearance to clear the new pads.
WTF am I doing wrong?
The C-clamp doesn't work either since as Girth said, our pistons "screw" in.
Thanks guys.

 

[Swerny]

Managed to get clearance after at least 50 turns and losing the shim on one of the pads.
Starting side #2 now.
If anyone has any tips, please let me know.

 

[nautical2086]

keep on the old pad around the piston, then use the c clamp, it worked for me no the few cars I changed brakes on, i dont see why it wouldnt work.

 

[Swerny]

apparently the pistons on the MSP are different than the ES or P5.
It's a screw tipe (according to Girth). I tried the C-clamp method (which worked on the front BTW) but no dice.
I got them done though, test drive was OK.
Hopefully they don't catch fire on my drive to work tomorrow! (boom07)
Thanks

 

[DrummerJim50]

Some cars require (or at least highly suggest) a tool that clamps and turns at the same time...like THIS one that I have. If you don't have one of those do your best to push and turn at the same time. I never had a MSP but maybe that's how it works.

 

[90210brandon]

Thanks guys for the write ups!

After 128000 km's I replaced the front brake pads, only, and that was the easiest job ever.

Thanks Mazda engineers!

Dion

 

[chuyler1]

According to this thread... http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123638763&page=1
...bad things can happen if you don't lube the guide pins before reinstalling them. Since I used this how-to as a reference for changing my pads/rotors I came back to see if I missed something.

Lubing is mentioned on page 3 but not in the original post. Could someone please update it?

Perhaps that is why my rear pads tend to stick sometimes. Should both pins be lubed or do you only have to lube the one you remove?

 

[Pmpkinhead]

Lube everything except the pad surface! Use a small blade or screwdriver to gently scrape the guides clean or buy (recommended) the kit with new guides.

 

[ChopstickHero]

Lube everything except the pad surface! Use a small blade or screwdriver to gently scrape the guides clean or buy (recommended) the kit with new guides.

yeah, pretty much lube everything. it's a good idea to lube those sliders at least once a year or more if you want to be safe. I used some of that Valvoline SynPower synthetic lube. super slick stuff. also, it's a good idea when you do a brake service (not just changing pads/rotors) to clean out the caliper assembly of any excess dirt.

 

[DrummerJim50]

Lube everything except the pad surface! Use a small blade or screwdriver to gently scrape the guides clean or buy (recommended) the kit with new guides.

Coat everything with brake parts cleaner and scrape the gunk off the calipers. It can't hurt to buy all new hardware and rubber boots from the dealer...it's only like $10

 

[protur03]

hey whats up guys im new here and i already got so much help with installs, that is great info on the brake install, thanx

 

[PseudoGeek]

Thank You!!!

I had never changed brake pads before on any car - it took me hours to do the left side, using "instructions" from the Mazda shop manual. Then I read / printed this and studied the photos and the right side took about half an hour. The suggestion from MazdaDan that the calipers stay on the wheel was exceedingly helpful (enguard) - I did the second one that way and will always do it that way in the future since the thing is bolted in place and not wiggling around.

One note - I did not have to transfer the backing plates from the old pads to the new ones - I bought OEM replacement pads from the Mazda dealer (after reading a helpful post on another section of this site) which came with the backing plates installed. I put some brake grease on the back side of them as directed by the Mazda shop manual; no noises so far.

 

[improte5]

the title says "How To: MP3 Front Pad/ROTOR Change (No 56K) (UPDATED)"... in all 8 pages of this thread I couldn't find anything about the rotor replacement (great work on the pad replacement though!)... and I did a search and was unable to find anything other than this thread as far as rotors is concerned.

Is there a lot more instruction needed to get the rotors off? I guess these instructions will help me to get the rotor off and then I'll stumble through the rest.

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

nope...once you get the caliper off & its "dangling" from the car lol you just give the back of the rotor a tap w/ a rubber malet to get it off if it doesnt just come off...

 

[chuyler1]

Actually, you can give the front top of the rotor a whack...and the bottom will come loose, then give the bottom a whack and the top will come loose, etc...

I'm saying this because it will save you the 2 minutes that I used trying to tap the back of the rotor...there just ain't any room to get leverage.

 

[improte5]

u guys rock - thnx peeps!

 

[khaosman]

I had a stupid question! But figured it out when I actually took the things apart.