How To: MP3/P5/MSP Front & rear Pad/Rotor Change (No 56K)

[6speed]

Anyone have trouble getting the rotors themselves off?

My front rotors won't budge at all, even once both pieces are off (Forget their names, the caliper and it's opposing piece of metal)

On my last car, once those were off, the rotor was just loose on the lug screws. These are solid tight. Even a bit of leverage doesn't move them at all. Is there something I can't see holding them on? The center nut visible clearly isn't the issue, and nothing appears to be holding it on from the back either.

Help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DrummerJim50]

take a hammer to them.....sometimes they rust on. hopefully you weren't going to reuse them

 

[6speed]

K, ill try that...got new brmbos so don't care about them.

 

[roni]

Saturate them with a penetrant and let it sit for 15 minutes. Get a bolt that is long enough and has the correct thread pitch so that it threads into that hole towards the center section of the rotor, and tighten it down. If that doesn't break it loose all the way use a rubber mallet (or a hammer if you don't mind hearing loud metal on metal).

Anyone have trouble getting the rotors themselves off?

My front rotors won't budge at all, even once both pieces are off (Forget their names, the caliper and it's opposing piece of metal)

On my last car, once those were off, the rotor was just loose on the lug screws. These are solid tight. Even a bit of leverage doesn't move them at all. Is there something I can't see holding them on? The center nut visible clearly isn't the issue, and nothing appears to be holding it on from the back either.

Help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[6speed]

Ok, I pounded on it quite a bit... and nothing budged. I have Liquid Wrench sitting on it for about 45 minutes...

and I figured out what that screw hole was for and found a bolt that was the right size and thread pitch, but completely stripped the threads off the bolt until the bolt was just rotating...

I put the new pads on it and put everything back together for now... gonna try again monday.

Any other ideas, let me know. First car I have done the brakes for that has this stubborn of rotors, and have done brakes frequently enough (more than 1 per year on average) that I am confident about normal things. Just hoping I am not missing something. (Like the others were missing that hex screw for the rears)

Thanks

 

[roni]

Ok, I pounded on it quite a bit... and nothing budged. I have Liquid Wrench sitting on it for about 45 minutes...

and I figured out what that screw hole was for and found a bolt that was the right size and thread pitch, but completely stripped the threads off the bolt until the bolt was just rotating...

Ouch. Sorry to hear about your dilemma. I don't know what to tell you. I guess you managed to crossthread that bolt hole. I just hope you didn't damage the threads on the rotor too badly.. Are you 100% sure that was the right thread pitch and that the threads weren't damaged to begin with? Do you have another bolt you can try? Good luck, sorry I can't be of any more help.

 

[DrummerJim50]

Just keep doing what you're doing. Use some penetrating oil and beat the hell out of it. If you can hit the back of it easily, do that, otherwise use a solid rod or piece of metal to hammer the back of the rotor. Rotate the rotor between hits to loosen it all the way around. I've done lots of brakes and hammering it was usually the only way to solve it (although usually it's drum brakes that are the b****). I work at a service center too - sometimes we just get a sludge hammer and beat the s*** out of a rotor or drum to get it off. Put a little anti-seize between the hub and the new rotors - that will help in the future.

 

[6speed]

Hopefull

No, the threads on the rotor are not cross threaded... they are fine. I think the bolt I had was aluminum, as it just smoothly stripped the threads off the bolt, leaving the rotor alone.

Good to know about the more 1st hand information... should be able to get it done today.

The new rotors are cadium plated, though not sure if much of that will get rubbed off against the hub over time, though it should protect them pretty well.

 

[MP05]

Subscripton

 

[Volley2six]

Okay...so I've removed the caliper and the bolt behind the piston to expose the set screw. I've tried to unscrew it and I can feel the set screw stripping. I'm nervous to keep trying because I don't want to strip it totally, but that's the only way to get the piston to retract enough to put the brake pads in. Any ideas?

 

[DrummerJim50]

Okay...so I've removed the caliper and the bolt behind the piston to expose the set screw. I've tried to unscrew it and I can feel the set screw stripping. I'm nervous to keep trying because I don't want to strip it totally, but that's the only way to get the piston to retract enough to put the brake pads in. Any ideas?

Strange that would happen. When I did mine the allen screw gave me almost zero resistance, and pulled the piston back immediately. You won't be able to retract it any other way - the allen screw is the only way - if you push in the piston with a clamp you'll probably destroy it. Only suggestion I would have would be to put some penetrating oil on it if you can (I don't think that would hurt it?). If that doesn't work you could try to take apart the whole caliper (instructions in the shop manual) to figure out what's giving you resistance......although to do this you would have to turn the allen screw clockwise (this will push the piston out all the way until it is disconnected) to release the piston to disassemble it, if you can do that.

 

[Volley2six]

Yeah, this is bad...it's basically a circle now since it's been stripped so badly. And of course the clouds have rolled in and it's about to rain. This is very bad....

 

[Volley2six]

(hand)

 

[Volley2six]

So the car is still outside, waiting for a miracle. I guess I'll have to have it towed to some brake place that can help me. I don't know what else to do. I wouldn't be suprised if I need a whole new caliper.

 

[DrummerJim50]

Did you try to take apart the caliper to see why the screw won't turn?

If I was you, I'd go down to Advance Auto Parts and buy a new caliper and replace it yourself (unloaded calipers usually aren't more than $50-60, and are fairly easy to replace)......I'm sure that would be cheaper than having it towed and then having a shop check it out and fix it.

 

[Volley2six]

I'm not going to take it apart. Doug (Cbcbd) by the good grace of God has an extra rear left caliper, so we're going to switch them tomorrow. Crossing my fingers!

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

how do we get the rotors off?

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

can anyone give a little write up on how to get the front rotors off? This will be my first attempt at brakes so I'd like to have all of my basis covered

 

[Volley2six]

The rotors come off easily. They're being held on by the calipers. The directions on the first page tell you how to get the calipers off. After that, they just slide off (unless they're rusted on there, then take a rubber mallet or hammer and just hammer them off)

 

[evilmonkeyMSP]

oh ok then..... easy enough wasnt sure if that giant nut in the center needed to com off

The rotors come off easily. They're being held on by the calipers. The directions on the first page tell you how to get the calipers off. After that, they just slide off (unless they're rusted on there, then take a rubber mallet or hammer and just hammer them off)