Velocifero
Wham Bam thank you Ma'am
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- VRM MS6, Sunlight Silver MSP
thats kinda what I am trying, just don't want to pay for pc, thats why i started asking about painting it.Wiggles422 said:
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How To: Make your exhaust manifold heat shield shiny as a new quarter
- Thread starter ZenProtege
- Start date
- :
- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
A pic movie of the steps I described are on my 1st post now
The dremel made the shine come through a LOT quicker. Compared to the dremel, the drill/buffing pad combo wasn't doing jack. Only after I dremel-ed the entire thing did I go to the drill to even it all out.CasopoliS said:So you used a dremel to do the buffing? If so, that is one problem.
Yeah, about that..... j/k . I honestly have no clue how it got there. I was pretty careful with it. I guess it was already there, the pseudo-shine just brought it out more.CasopoliS said:How did you get that dent in the HS? Get a little upset?
I'm gonna go buy some today and try that.CasopoliS said:If you use compound bars and press the bar against the buffing wheel it will coat the buffing wheel and not fly everywhere. It took me 5 minutes to buff my HS, and it took no effort, I did not even have to press hard. I had a high speed grinding wheeel with a big round buffing disk (like you see in my attachment a few posts back), and used compound bars. I stayed clean as well.
Holy crap ZenProtege, what a nice little movie you made there. You should be all over the how-to's. I am starting to think you do some pornos on the side..... j/k. I guess I could make a slideshow movie with my photoshop software too, I just never tried.
BTW not to be mean, but that HS is still dull compared to what it could be. Mine looked like a chrome mirror when I was done. The picture of mine you posted, it had already dulled a bit... no joke. I used three levels of compounds and then hand polished it.... still only took 5 minutes (after I got all the tools and compounds out). My fiance did her hair in it when I was done (before I put it back in). Should've gotten a picture of that, would of been pretty funny. Your HS still looks 10x better than stock.
BTW not to be mean, but that HS is still dull compared to what it could be. Mine looked like a chrome mirror when I was done. The picture of mine you posted, it had already dulled a bit... no joke. I used three levels of compounds and then hand polished it.... still only took 5 minutes (after I got all the tools and compounds out). My fiance did her hair in it when I was done (before I put it back in). Should've gotten a picture of that, would of been pretty funny. Your HS still looks 10x better than stock.
memo79 said:The dremel made the shine come through a LOT quicker. Compared to the dremel, the drill/buffing pad combo wasn't doing jack. Only after I dremel-ed the entire thing did I go to the drill to even it all out.
I did not use a drill. I used a high speed bench grinder with a buffing wheel on it. I used to use a drill with a buff wheel on it for my old old rims, and it did not do the job nearly as well as something faster and more powerfull like a bench grinder. The grinder allows you to put more force on the part, and the high RPM works wonders.
CasopoliS said:I did not use a drill. I used a high speed bench grinder with a buffing wheel on it. I used to use a drill with a buff wheel on it for my old old rims, and it did not do the job nearly as well as something faster and more powerfull like a bench grinder. The grinder allows you to put more force on the part, and the high RPM works wonders.
That's what I used as well. Used a few different compounds from sears on the buffing wheel and it came out great.
Bench grinders are cheap enough and definitely come in handy. Great investment.
Mark
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- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
I wish i had a grinder . I found several places that sell the polishing kits that go onto it for under 20$. For what it cost the drill buffer did its job well even though mine isn't as shiny as yours. It's also a nasty day outside the pics don't do it justice
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- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
If you have the money use casopolis's method
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PimpDaddyJ
Member
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- Mazda Speed 2003
I noticed mine was hella dirty yesterday, I might try one of those methods before i sell the car shortly, give it that extra glow...The thought did cross my mind of trying taco bell hot sauce (not while the heat shield was hot) due to the amazing shine it gives pennys and other change...but might not be a high selling point of the car smells like salsa......
I couldn't find the rubbing compound but I bought a buffing wheel that came with a little white rectangular bar. Looks almost like wax. Is this the same thing you're talking about or should I keep searching for the 3M rubbing compound?CasopoliS said:If you use compound bars and press the bar against the buffing wheel it will coat the buffing wheel and not fly everywhere.
Can someone explain this better? Do you *have to* remove the hard pipe in order to get the O2 sensor off? You're suppose to disconnect the black square adapter that the wires run through, correct?!ZenProtege said:The first thing to remove is your 02 sensor connector. its easy to do, just push it back towards the driver seat to get if off the clip and then pull the tab up and yank both ends to disconnect it. then fully loosen the clamps of the hot pipe of on both ends. you will need to remove the hot pipe on the TURBO side only( you don't even want to try to get it off the intercooler), it might take you a while of pulling but eventually it will break loose and come off. If you feel like its going to fly off because your pulling on it so hard disconnect your BPV before pulling on it anymore. Once you have the pipe removed pull it up and and twist it towards the front of the car to get it out of the way.
You can use any kind of liquid rubbing compound. 3M is just the best in my opinion. Polish it with some wax or similar product after its been compounded.
You don't have to pull out the O2 sensor, but you will have to remove the upper pipe to be able to remove your heatshield. It just makes the process easier. Just disconnect the connector by squeezing down on the tab and pulling it apart at the same time.
You don't have to pull out the O2 sensor, but you will have to remove the upper pipe to be able to remove your heatshield. It just makes the process easier. Just disconnect the connector by squeezing down on the tab and pulling it apart at the same time.
OK guys, I'm kinda having a hard time with this. I've put on about 5 coats of rubbing compound and my heatshield still looks about as dull as when I first started. Is it normal for your buffing wheel to turn black and become drenched with the compound solution?
Basically, what I'm doing is using a white rag to rub in the 3M rubbing compound, letting it sit for 5-10 minutes, then buffing it out. This is what FORCEFED recommended.
Help!
Basically, what I'm doing is using a white rag to rub in the 3M rubbing compound, letting it sit for 5-10 minutes, then buffing it out. This is what FORCEFED recommended.
Help!
- :
- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
what kind of rubbing compound and buffer are you using?
the stuff I used worked just fine. I don't know if you applied the rubbing compound like waxing a car or not but it sounds like you did. If so I don't think that will work well, try applying plenty of compound to the buffer and work it in. If you look at the pic movie I made you will see my buffer bonnet was black too
the stuff I used worked just fine. I don't know if you applied the rubbing compound like waxing a car or not but it sounds like you did. If so I don't think that will work well, try applying plenty of compound to the buffer and work it in. If you look at the pic movie I made you will see my buffer bonnet was black too
Wiggles422
Member
- :
- MSP #654
try this: click save as and save it somewhere and then open it (in quicktime) and an error pops up and then click continue and finally, push play and it should work.
RX said:OK guys, I'm kinda having a hard time with this. I've put on about 5 coats of rubbing compound and my heatshield still looks about as dull as when I first started. Is it normal for your buffing wheel to turn black and become drenched with the compound solution?
Basically, what I'm doing is using a white rag to rub in the 3M rubbing compound, letting it sit for 5-10 minutes, then buffing it out. This is what FORCEFED recommended.
Help!
Yes it should turn black. What kind of wheel are you using?
He is not using a wheel, which is a big mistake. It would probably take all 16ozs of the 3M and several different arms to get it to work manually. You need a buffer, grinder, or drill with a polishing/compounding pad. You don't need to let the compound sit either. It works better if you buff it dry. The black residue will come right off if you wash the pad in the washing machine. I just drove mine for 50 miles, you could smell the wax burning off, but it is still shinning.
Its a lot smarter than painting it in my experience and opinion. No reason why the shine shouldn't last for a long time. You have to compound it first, the wax is just to enhance the shine. But its definitely something to do if you are meticulous about how your engine bay looks.
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