HOW TO: Installing protegegarage's TMIC

peanutsparts said:
thats thihng is massive compared to the stock one.
You should see the before and after with the Miata's stock IC and the new one.

Anyways, looks good man. You sure are slapping stuff on pretty quickly. You are almost at the pace I was when I first bought the MSM. CATCH UP!
 
zoom-zoomhatch said:
I don't see why this would even be such a big warrenty issue, or what would break that they could link to this?
nothing really. Thats why I bought it. Such a simple, easy to install mod that comes off in minutes if you are REALLY paranoid about warrenty work.
 
justa4banger said:
so other than spool time, any HP gains with this mod? just curious

Run_2_Compare.jpg
 
you should see the MS6's as well :) mazda likes to smell fuel when they punch it!
 
Is it just me or does that power gride appear to be backwards (glare)

Why such a decrease after 4.5k RPM?
 
Drake13 said:
Is it just me or does that power gride appear to be backwards (glare)

Why such a decrease after 4.5k RPM?

looks good to me are you talking about the a/f graph, because I don't see a drop off until after 5500 rpm's which is caused by the throttle control and is normal for a ms3, until someone come find a way to control the throttle.
 
Airmack said:
stock hp at under 210? am i missing something here? I thought we have 260 hp?

dynos read wheel horsepower, auto manufacturers rate thier vehicles at crank/engine horsepower. by the time you factor in parasitic loss through the drivetrain, the actual horsepower that is hitting the street is much lower than what a manufacturer prints. for example, a protege from the factory was rated at 130hp but most dynos put the car at barely 100 to wheels. this is where you will see abbreviations such as "whp" - wheel horsepower - and "rwhp" - rear wheel horsepower- etc etc. this dyno was also done on a mazdaspeed6, where the all wheel drive system will show more parasitic loss than a two wheel drive setup. you also have to take into account the type of dyno being used - a dynodynamics system typically rates lower than a dynojet or a dynapack style system, so on and so forth. these variations along with personal beef will often lead people to cry foul or cry BS when a dyno is posted, regardless of how accurate it may be as there are many factors which can affect a dyno result. the dyno's correction factor, the RPM at which sampling started, the climate - all of these and more are factors which can lead to dyno variation between two cars and even dynos of the same type and brand.
whats important when modding is not the number itself, but the consistency of difference between the baseline and the modded result. so if one car dynos stock at 200 and another 220, with the particular mod providing gains of 220 and 240 respectively, give or take a few, this shows that the mod provides consistent gains vehicle to vehicle.

for the record, on cobb's forums, the mazdaspeed3 dynoed stock at 215whp. i have had a canadian customer tell me his mazdaspeed3 dynoed in the same range on a different system.

there is also the case of factories overrating and underrating thier own vehicles from the factory. dodge claimed thier srt4 neons initially had 215 hp, yet when dynoed - even stock - the vehicles would show closer to 230 or 240 to the wheels! GM had the same 'issue' with saturn ion redlines/cobalt ss supercharged where they would dyno higher than rated. mazda unfortunately has a recent record of overrating thier vehicles. the rx8 was initially rated at 255 hp, yet independent testing showed that the number at the engine was around 238 hp. the same happened with the miata. it was worse on the rx8 automatics, where factory rated horsepower was adjusted to below the 200 mark. the severity of this error on mazda's behalf led to buyback offers and free maintenance compensation to thier customers.

sorry for the lecture, not even a fully comprehensive one at that, but it explains for those not aware why dyno numbers don't match the brochure - basically two different numbers at work.
 
Most tuners I have talked to say the same thing, look at the HP gain and not the actual # when you get a tune. Probably the only way to get RWHP (Real World Horsepower, call it artistic license) is to use a G-Tech or to calculate based on 1/4 mile runs. Even that will cause you headaches as you still have to account for environmental factors (Temp, humidity, altitude, etc.) if you want to post and compare the results.

The first time I dynoed my Evo I got 225-230hp on three separate runs with no mods, it was rated for 271. My last dyno with a intake, exhaust and tune netted me 278 HP and 297 TQ. I recently took out a restrictor pill between the boost solenoid and the O2 housing and picked up about 2 lbs of boost and I feel I have gained some more HP so I probably need to go dyno again.

From the looks of the graph it almost seems that the MS3s running out of breath at higher RPMs. I think opening up the intake and exhaust will do wonders for the car, especially at high RPMs. This is probably where the major changes can be made.

Anyway, to get back on topic. Nice install!! Thanks! I need to get one of these.
Captain KRM P5 said:
dynos read wheel horsepower, auto manufacturers rate thier vehicles at crank/engine horsepower. by the time you factor in parasitic loss through the drivetrain, the actual horsepower that is hitting the street is much lower than what a manufacturer prints. for example, a protege from the factory was rated at 130hp but most dynos put the car at barely 100 to wheels. this is where you will see abbreviations such as "whp" - wheel horsepower - and "rwhp" - rear wheel horsepower- etc etc. this dyno was also done on a mazdaspeed6, where the all wheel drive system will show more parasitic loss than a two wheel drive setup. you also have to take into account the type of dyno being used - a dynodynamics system typically rates lower than a dynojet or a dynapack style system, so on and so forth. these variations along with personal beef will often lead people to cry foul or cry BS when a dyno is posted, regardless of how accurate it may be as there are many factors which can affect a dyno result. the dyno's correction factor, the RPM at which sampling started, the climate - all of these and more are factors which can lead to dyno variation between two cars and even dynos of the same type and brand.
whats important when modding is not the number itself, but the consistency of difference between the baseline and the modded result. so if one car dynos stock at 200 and another 220, with the particular mod providing gains of 220 and 240 respectively, give or take a few, this shows that the mod provides consistent gains vehicle to vehicle.

for the record, on cobb's forums, the mazdaspeed3 dynoed stock at 215whp. i have had a canadian customer tell me his mazdaspeed3 dynoed in the same range on a different system.

there is also the case of factories overrating and underrating thier own vehicles from the factory. dodge claimed thier srt4 neons initially had 215 hp, yet when dynoed - even stock - the vehicles would show closer to 230 or 240 to the wheels! GM had the same 'issue' with saturn ion redlines/cobalt ss supercharged where they would dyno higher than rated. mazda unfortunately has a recent record of overrating thier vehicles. the rx8 was initially rated at 255 hp, yet independent testing showed that the number at the engine was around 238 hp. the same happened with the miata. it was worse on the rx8 automatics, where factory rated horsepower was adjusted to below the 200 mark. the severity of this error on mazda's behalf led to buyback offers and free maintenance compensation to thier customers.

sorry for the lecture, not even a fully comprehensive one at that, but it explains for those not aware why dyno numbers don't match the brochure - basically two different numbers at work.
 
Its not running out of breath the electronic throttle control is pulling the throttle, according to CPE.
 
so with all this said is the top mount even worth it, im kinda confused. i want to buy it but is it a big difference
 
dread said:
Its not running out of breath the electronic throttle control is pulling the throttle, according to CPE.

which we have control over now (the throttle plate) but we'll talk more about that later.
 
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