How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

^^Right thread!!!
The guy had asked to see what was wrong with his car and thinks that one of the possibility might be his egr valve. He is not mechanically inclined to remove the egr so therefore SEAFOAMING might do him good. I had the same problem with my egr (not as bad as his) and I seafoamed the mofo and it has improved ever since. It could be a thousand other reasons, but $8 is not that big of a deal to throw away, plus cleaning up carbon build ups.
 
big Lou said:
Your right.. Just a lot of threads about seafoam... I should have re directed him.
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Wow seriously? My concern was that doing the egr cleaning didn't seem to help with the symptoms my car has, he simply suggested seafoam as another way to cure the symptoms that the egr cleaning didn't correct.Lighten up!
 
I am lol the thread is about egr cleaning... I was suggesting starting your own thread in the car problems section and you would have more people helping u out instead of us two.... This thread had Been dea for a while.. Just making a suggestion to help you get to the root cause.. I'm all about helping people out...
 
My idle speed droped to 705RPM when I put in the Hyperground system, but the engine has a very intermittant drop at idle and I think it may either be this or the in tank filter screen that may be the issue. Yours is a quicker to do, so I think I will try this before cracking open the gas tank and cleaning the screen/sock thing in one of the other posts. Thanks for the writeup.
 
So last week the rough idle started again and I had to clean the EGR (I've had to do it roughly once a year, or every 10k miles). This time though it was REALLY stuck open. I had to use pliers to force it closed even after letting it soak in Brake cleaner, then WD40, then some liquid wrench type stuff. At the end, and about an hour of scrubbin the little valve shaft for about an hour, I got it to where I could close/open it with my hands, but, I have not been able to clean it, (as I've had every other time) enough for the spring to close the valva back by itself.

Any suggestions on how to clean better before I drop another ~100 bucks on this car?
 
gave up cleaning the EGR and bought a new one. Have the old one up for sale on the parts section if anyone wants to have a got at it
 
I just wanted to bump this post up for the links Sport23 provides.

I have idling issues and while reading up to attempt to fix it, I kept seeing this thread pop up. Consequently, I recently cleaned my EGR valve as suggested in the initial post. The car worked well for a few days then started acting up again. I had problems with my scanner, so I wasn't able to pull up codes, but it feels like the EGR again. I almost ordered a replacement, then stumbled upon an old EGR valve in my garage. So I thought, "F***, I bought a new one years ago and am replacing it again. Before purchasing another EGR valve I thought, "this many years later, there has to be a revision." So I did a google search for "revised protege EGR valve" and found the thread that theMan started.

If you live in a cold climate, tired on cleaning your EGR valve, and plan on buying a new one, go with the Canadian EGR valve. I did a eBay and Amazon search for "EGV1124".

Sport23 said:
Your best bet is a Candian EGR. It will last the longest out of any available parts. Check out The Man's thread here.

For sale on Rock Auto (middle one)

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
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i have 1999 protege, Just a quick note that may be useful, i took mine off cleaned it as brilliantly descibed, ok for a short while, took off and replaced with new one (best to have a short 12mm wrench and undo bolt on passengers side from underneath)......only ok again 4 a short while then got really bad, gave in and took to a garage and they aparently just cleaned out the inlet from air filter by spraying in (i guess intake manifold cleaner) and it seems to have sorted tickover.
may be worth a try. cheers
 
I removed my intake, battery and battery tray. What do you have to do to access the bolts to remove it? The angle it sits, and the location of the bolts make it near impossible to get with a 1/2 or 3/4 ratchet! I have tried combination's of extensions and adapters to reach it. It seems like a fuel line or something is in the way, it runs next to the bulk of wires over the transmission housing that's all taped up. What is the trick/secret?!
 
MP5stephen said:
I removed my intake, battery and battery tray. What do you have to do to access the bolts to remove it? The angle it sits, and the location of the bolts make it near impossible to get with a 1/2 or 3/4 ratchet! I have tried combination's of extensions and adapters to reach it. It seems like a fuel line or something is in the way, it runs next to the bulk of wires over the transmission housing that's all taped up. What is the trick/secret?!
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It's a lot easier if you remove the throttle body as well. I remove the tb and use a box end or gear wrench.

Without removing the throttle body, having a slim flex head ratchet like the one mentioned in this thread would make things easier.
 
how did you guys remove the valve? i removed the strut bar, battery, and intake hose yet i am still having trouble trying to get the egr valve out. i see 4 screws on top of the egr. i don't see the 2 bolts as mentioned. can i remove the 4 screws out first or is the 2 bolts (which i cant find)? its very crowded space and the angle of the egr makes it worse. i cant fit my hand in to get the egr harness out.

I also dropped the nut from the intake into the car and i cant find it.

Also i found cracks and a rip in my intake hose. fml

EDIT: i found the nut and put everything back how it was.
 
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us3r said:
how did you guys remove the valve? i removed the strut bar, battery, and intake hose yet i am still having trouble trying to get the egr valve out. i see 4 screws on top of the egr. i don't see the 2 bolts as mentioned. can i remove the 4 screws out first or is the 2 bolts (which i cant find)? its very crowded space and the angle of the egr makes it worse. i cant fit my hand in to get the egr harness out.
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I remove the throttle body as well: two bolts on top, two nuts below. With that out, the EGR is becomes a bit more accessible, including removing the harness. The 4 screws affix the solenoid to the valve body. The two bolts aren't easy to see, but with the throttle body off, it's easy to stick a finger back there and feel for it.
 
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