How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

i got it out. i might thinking of buying the canadian version egr. it looks hard to install though.
 
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i tried removing the egr and no luck with those 2 damn bolts. even with the tb off:/ fml idk what else to do not even my bro could do it either
 
i tried removing the egr and no luck with those 2 damn bolts. even with the tb off:/ fml idk what else to do not even my bro could do it either

The bolts are upside down, everything is backwards (just a thought)
 
ever wonder what a 300000 mile mazda protege egr valve looks like?
IMG950316.jpg
dont worry i cleaned it :)
 
i tried removing the egr and no luck with those 2 damn bolts. even with the tb off:/ fml idk what else to do not even my bro could do it either
Did you remove the strut bar and battery? Did you use a box end or gear wrench?
No just intake and tb don't see how the battery removed would of helped but will look at that next attempt
 
Im having stalling issues when starting up the car.. Havent ran OBD II codes yet, but car starts like a champ and then once it hits idle, car "chokes" out. Does this sometimes too while I sit at a stop sign or traffic light.. Anyone think this could be an EGR problem as well? If so, where is the TB and valve located on a 1.6 Protege auto?
 
Im having stalling issues when starting up the car.. Havent ran OBD II codes yet, but car starts like a champ and then once it hits idle, car "chokes" out. Does this sometimes too while I sit at a stop sign or traffic light.. Anyone think this could be an EGR problem as well? If so, where is the TB and valve located on a 1.6 Protege auto?
Try cleaning out the IAC, clean the throttle body while you are at it. Just follow the intake from the air filter to motor, it'll lead you to the throttle body. The Idle Air Controller is connected to the throttle body.
 
Try cleaning out the IAC, clean the throttle body while you are at it. Just follow the intake from the air filter to motor, it'll lead you to the throttle body. The Idle Air Controller is connected to the throttle body.

I can spray TB/Brake cleaner in there and use a Q-tip to clean the sensor, I believe?
 
I can spray TB/Brake cleaner in there and use a Q-tip to clean the sensor, I believe?
Yes, TB Cleaner will work. For a thorough cleaning, remove the TB and then remove the IAC from the TB. Then clean and lubricate the plunger shaft on the IAC. Use the swabs to clean the seating surface of the IAC and the associated ports on the TB.
 
Yes, TB Cleaner will work. For a thorough cleaning, remove the TB and then remove the IAC from the TB. Then clean and lubricate the plunger shaft on the IAC. Use the swabs to clean the seating surface of the IAC and the associated ports on the TB.

So I wrapped my cracked hose black with electrical tape and sprayed and wiped down the plenunum/butterfly valve of the TB. Sprayed down inside the hole leading to the EGR valve and did a thorough wipe down with a soft towel. Opened up the valve and sprayed inside and wiped down inside as well. Not a lot of build-up, but still a decent amount. Give it a good spray and wipe down again and re-installed SRI and wiped down MAF sensor as well. Started car up and she purred! Stayed running and once RPMS slowed down and she idled, stayed on and no more choking out! Will do a test run tomorrow and report any issues! So far, a wrapped intake hose and STP TB/AI cleaner has done the job!
 
Being a complete ass, I decided that the EGR valve does nothing useful except let exhaust gas back into the intake. What the heck for, except to cause rough idle and sputter and stumble when the darn thing sticks partially open when you pull up to a stop after running at highway speed for a while.

So, I cut a piece out of an aluminum can (Corona, my favorite beer) in the same size and shape as the EGR gasket, with the bolt holes but minus the two opening holes, and I just sandwiched the piece between the EGR and the intake manifold, blocking off the EGR flow.

Voila, problem solved, no more rough idle, no stumble, no sputter, no CEL. Everything is groovy. The NOX from my car is a little higher than it should be. BFD.

Guys, for those of you who need help with this, yes, do remove the battery, it will make access much easier. Use a regular 1/4 in drive with a normal 12mm socket to get in there. No need to crawl under the car like a rat. It helps if you have been to the gym a few times in your life, and if you've used those squeezy jobby springy thingies to strengthen your grip. In other words, no use trying if you are a limp-wristed girl. On the other hand, if, like me, your hands and forearms are a bit over-developed, you will have a fun time maneuvering them in that tight little spot. Six of one, half-dozen the other.
 
Use the closed end of a dbl ended wrench on the egr bolts then hook another double ended wrench closed end onto the open end if the first wrench as a cheater bar sortof thing... Helps in many tight situations
 
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