How To: Ebay FMIC

My guess would be yes ,it should work but It will require a few 90 degree couplers . Straight pipes are pointless on the msp. The kit that I showed u,brings the 2 75 degree pipes which can be cut and used as straight but won't be that long. Or u can always cut the 45 or 90 degree pipe and use it as straight also. Up 2 u
 
I just kept my Injen SRI pipe. I cut off the BPV tube and had a plate welded over it.
 
I just kept my Injen SRI pipe. I cut off the BPV tube and had a plate welded over it.
I kept my injen cai as well. And I also cut the bypass tube and placed a rubber boot that goes over it perfectly .U can get a rubber boot from auto zone.
 
I have a rubber grommet I need to drill a hole for thats perfect for the IAT sensor....lame that it cant go in the cold pipe...
 
I left my sensor on the cai. And Just relocated the maf. Everything worked out. Only 1 issue as of now. My car went from boosting 8 psi after the fmic install to 2-4 psi now. I don't know if it's because it's asking for spark plugs or maybe cuz I have a tiny rip on my coupler on the U pipe. I have a coupler coming soon.
 
has to be the coupler. pressure loss wouldnt have to due with the spark plugs but a boost leak will.
 
ya it's deff. from the coupler, I'd just stay out of boost anyways for now until the coupler comes, so you don't end up blowing the whole thing apart
 
Well based on a few days of driving, I'd say my acceleration has quickened quite a bit. The blow off is much more pleasant to hear than the bypass too. Now I need to fix the squeak and clunk.
 
I know that I had posted earlier that I was having trouble with idle issues after my install, but i have figures out that it was not my MAF being in front of the bov, I will relocate it but I am going to relocate it after I receive my 505 IM. The actual problem was the setting on my Greddy BOV being set too soft. Runs like a champ now. I have noticed that it seems to run a bit more rich, anyone else experiencing this?
 
I've explained it in here before lol

Ref your car up and just let off the gas....it will want to die. With the MAF in front of the BOV the MAF is reading incoming air which the BOV is venting. The ECU has compensated for that air by adding fuel...because the air was vented the car will bog or want to stall.

Swapping their locations resolves this as the air is vented by the BOV before being read by the MAF.
 
I have an idea for piping routing...just need these damn couplers!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I remember that now sorry, but my car doesn't do that anymore now that I have adjusted the BOV to the harder setting, has never bogged before either....
 
I would switch them around regardless, it will make your life much easier, and just increasing the tension on the BOV I think just puts more pressure on the turbo, even though you don't hear the turkey, that is because the BOV is set high enough to prevent any of that from escaping, and it is not that noticeable because the excess air and pressure goes away so quickly that you wouldn't be able to see it on the boost gauge, but the pressure has to go somewhere, and tightening up the BOV is just preventing it, I'm not saying this is definitely what is happening, but if you think about it, it's got to go somewhere, and it just doesn't disappear

it is really easy to do, just switch the pipes, they should fit perfectly fine, the only difference will be where the bent in the piping is.. but there still is a bend and it should fit no problem.. it's much better for the car regardless, because at this point, having your MAF sensor there is pointless..you mine as well have it back on the intake
 

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