719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
So speedaction20 how did you mount your ic to the bumper? Just drill holes through the top?
How To: Ebay FMIC
- Thread starter Wagonbacker9
- Start date
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
it doesnt really matter where its at, as long as it is before the MAF, make sure its not too close though (as you stated 18" is ideal)
my BOV is on the hot side, and works the same as any other BOV I've seen
one of the pipes i got came with a synapse flange jbwelded on lol. I could use that even since the flange he gave me with the ssqv is meant to be used with a T coupler.
was gonna buy an intercooler from vancouver but the dude never replied to me so **** him lol. got the ssqv instead.
oh, would running 2.25" intake be too small? I have a 3" cone filter so id have to stretch a coupler on, but meh.
was gonna buy an intercooler from vancouver but the dude never replied to me so **** him lol. got the ssqv instead.
oh, would running 2.25" intake be too small? I have a 3" cone filter so id have to stretch a coupler on, but meh.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
the bigger the better, but i wouldnt say 2.25 is too small since thats the turbo inlet size
ill see if i have enough pipe. i don't plan to make this a permanent fixture in my engine bay. though if i upgrade to fmic instead of water/air, i can use the 2.25" bends for the hot-side at least.
pipes were $80. for canada, no hst, no ebay **** shipping, thats awesome!
gotta put my money into my summer tires and steedspeed manifold.
pipes were $80. for canada, no hst, no ebay **** shipping, thats awesome!
gotta put my money into my summer tires and steedspeed manifold.
719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
as promised. Photos of my setup.
what is the length of your intercooler? i want to route my hot side that same way but i think mine may be longer.
justanothermp5
Banned
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- Rust Bucket
turbo inlet is not 2", its 2.25" inlet
gato9lives
Member
- :
- mzda prtge msp
719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
So I had my bumper off and I was trying to picture how I can run the hotside piping like hkpro5. A 90 right off the intercooler will go directly where his hotpipe went, but than what? I'm guessing I might need another 90 from there angeled up towards the Jpipe, and maybe a 45 from there? Has anyone run this kind of set up? I'm guessing that the closer I can get to the perrin or turbolife hotpipe the better. Anyone have pics of the hotpipe of either of those kits or better yet measurements?
719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
just wanted to share another way to route the hotside piping... didnt feel like logging into my photobucket so check here
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...19prottege-build-thread&p=5544834#post5544834
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...19prottege-build-thread&p=5544834#post5544834
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
VERY nice work... thats all pretty tight in there, well done!
719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
thanks only took like an hour. you have to remove that fan, but my temps havent changed...
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
that is the AC fan... so unless you idle with the AC on, you should be OK.
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719prottege
Member
- :
- 03 msp
yea, i thought it might affect the radiator still though. but good point
my setup is still a work in progress, but i did this on less than $200 so far. I had some techno-weld that i picked up to use on my wheels but thought i would give it a shot on the intercooler pipes.
running the 28x5.5x2.5" cxracing fmic and 2.25" piping. I got my ssqv v2 used on a local forum for a good price.
I didn't wanna run too many couplers or expensive tbolt clamps so i welded as many pipes together as i could while maintaining some flex in the setup.
used the included brackets, but had to drill out the holes a little to fit the bolts that came with it. ended up using the under bumper bolts and mounting points which seems to work perfectly for this core.
hot pipe is a 70 bend and a 90 bend welded together. the angle is not quite square to help it snake through the power steering mess.
made a 135 pipe to link up to the undercooler right under the frame. didnt feel like deleting the washer bottle.
coldpipe follows the usual path through the bumper up through the cai hole. Used two 90 bends welded together under the bumper, and a straight coupler into a 70 and 45 welded together with the bov attached.
the blue couplers were removed in favor of welded pipes.
bov attached perminently because i got mad... lol.
had to modify a pair of needle nose pliars to work the cclip cause my damn snap ring pliars were too small. had to use the needlenoses and a screwdriver to put the clip on with a lot of grunting and annoyance.
when i took the valve apart to drill the holes to make it respond faster, broke the pliars and pinched my finger trying to put that thing on... got mad. welded the body of the valve onto the coldpipe.
not resellable but works as i need it to.
the welds are ugly for sure. i plan to take all the pipes out and grind the welds/paint the pipes to make them look a bit better. got some nice thick black paint.
running the 28x5.5x2.5" cxracing fmic and 2.25" piping. I got my ssqv v2 used on a local forum for a good price.
I didn't wanna run too many couplers or expensive tbolt clamps so i welded as many pipes together as i could while maintaining some flex in the setup.
used the included brackets, but had to drill out the holes a little to fit the bolts that came with it. ended up using the under bumper bolts and mounting points which seems to work perfectly for this core.
hot pipe is a 70 bend and a 90 bend welded together. the angle is not quite square to help it snake through the power steering mess.
made a 135 pipe to link up to the undercooler right under the frame. didnt feel like deleting the washer bottle.
coldpipe follows the usual path through the bumper up through the cai hole. Used two 90 bends welded together under the bumper, and a straight coupler into a 70 and 45 welded together with the bov attached.
the blue couplers were removed in favor of welded pipes.
bov attached perminently because i got mad... lol.
had to modify a pair of needle nose pliars to work the cclip cause my damn snap ring pliars were too small. had to use the needlenoses and a screwdriver to put the clip on with a lot of grunting and annoyance.
when i took the valve apart to drill the holes to make it respond faster, broke the pliars and pinched my finger trying to put that thing on... got mad. welded the body of the valve onto the coldpipe.
not resellable but works as i need it to.
the welds are ugly for sure. i plan to take all the pipes out and grind the welds/paint the pipes to make them look a bit better. got some nice thick black paint.
Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
All looks very well done, but I'll warn you (as you've seen my hot pipe runs the same route as yours... you WILL hit it on pavement or a parking barrier sooner or later.
