How TO: CEL/MIL Eliminator!

[Glowmunkey]

Just for reference, the second O2 sensor just shows the ECU that the mixture isn't overly lean or rich, telling it the catalyst effectively eliminated unburned hydrocarbons. It "sees" a value outside of the acceptable range and throws a code to warn you it could be polluting. The second O2 has nothing to do with fuel management, that's the job of the first O2.

 

[YloDmonTurboMSP]

Ok, I'm confused? The picture seems to show what I thought was the first o2 sensor on the intake manifold? I'm i right or wrong thinking that the MIL goes on the sensor that is between the two cats underneath the hood? Please let me know if this is wrong because I installed it underneath and that would explain why I keep getting a CEL. Thanks.

 

[acidbug]

Ok, I'm confused? The picture seems to show what I thought was the first o2 sensor on the intake manifold? I'm i right or wrong thinking that the MIL goes on the sensor that is between the two cats underneath the hood? Please let me know if this is wrong because I installed it underneath and that would explain why I keep getting a CEL. Thanks.

Sorry for the confustion..i will try to make my original post much more clearer...But It's the 2ND O2 SENSOR that gets the MIL eliminator!

Chas

 

[acidbug]

PLEASE MAKE THIS A STICKY or Locate to the How To!

I have seen lots of questions about how to make your own MIL/CEL Eliminator..

Well its really simple!

Tools Needed:
Wire Cutters
Soldering Iron
Solder
Electrical Tape
1-M Ohm Resistor ($1 at Radio Shack)
1-uF Capacitor($1 at Radio Shack)
Adjustable Wrench

Step1:
-Pop Open the Hood and get a look at the 2nd Oxygen Sensor
-There is a clip..Push the clip in and pull out the Male-Female Connection
-Using Adjustable Wrench Remove the Oxygen Sensor

Step2:
-Go somewhere you can use your Soldering Iron
-Cut the Blue Wire
-Remove the Sheathing on the White wire to expose the Copper Wiring Underneath
-Grab you 1m Ohm resistor and solder it into the bluewires you cut earlier
-Grap your 1uF capactiro and solder it into the wire that you unsheathed/exposed & than solder it on the connector side as show on the Pic!
-Grab your electrical tape and make sure you do a good job covering all the conections

Step3:
-Reinstall using the reverse directions in step 1!

Typical install time is 15-20min depending on your ability to solder!

Chas

 

[ARunto]

i did this but i used just the resistor soldered in line on blue wire. works great

-Alan

 

[mrpopnfresh]

My engine is weird, for a few weeks it's ok, then for the next few weeks I throw a cel. I didn't solder the Mil Eliminator yet, but I did notice when the Check engine light is on, the car does run rich. (I have autometer a/f too) When the light is off, the car runs smother, but feels like it's lacking the power it had while running rich.

Just thought I'd add that in.

 

[Wild_MSP]

I'm not very good at electronics, so could some tell me if the 1-M Ohm resistor is supposed to be a 1/2watt or 1/4watt? (RadioShack has both!)

Thanks!

 

[mrpopnfresh]

I noticed on my Autometer A/F guage, that while the Cel is on, the car runs rich, when it's off, it runs normally.

 

[acidbug]

I'm not very good at electronics, so could some tell me if the 1-M Ohm resistor is supposed to be a 1/2watt or 1/4watt? (RadioShack has both!)

Thanks!

Print out the sheet..and Just go in to Radio shack...I am sure they will know!

Chas

 

[walight01]

it doesn't matter the wattage on the resistor, get which everones are 99 cents the the cap at is 99cents, works great.

 

[joka1]

quick question?

-"Grab your 1uF capactiro and solder it into the wire that you unsheathed/exposed & than solder it on the connector side as show on the Pic!"
their is a plus side and a neg side, which one goes where????????? cause when my car was still running i still got my cell and i know i soldered it right and did it right. (i solder everyday at work) just curious it i hooked it up backwards?
rob

 

[acidbug]

quick question?

-"Grab your 1uF capactiro and solder it into the wire that you unsheathed/exposed & than solder it on the connector side as show on the Pic!"
their is a plus side and a neg side, which one goes where????????? cause when my car was still running i still got my cell and i know i soldered it right and did it right. (i solder everyday at work) just curious it i hooked it up backwards?
rob

Did you reset the ecu? b/c if you don't it will not work!

dude..no need to worry about plug and negative sides..just but the 1m ohm..on the blue wire...
than splice the wite wire connecting the 1uf!

Chas

 

[joka1]

ok, did that.... quick question........ i have no cats and if i put my o2 sensor back into my exhaust can i hook my a/f guage up to it (the second o2 sensor that is!! )
i know the wideband o2 sensor is better than the first o2 sensor!!!!!!!!! that is with this mod on the 2nd o2 sensor!!
rob

 

[acidbug]

ok, did that.... quick question........ i have no cats and if i put my o2 sensor back into my exhaust can i hook my a/f guage up to it (the second o2 sensor that is!! )
i know the wideband o2 sensor is better than the first o2 sensor!!!!!!!!! that is with this mod on the 2nd o2 sensor!!
rob

Well i had my a/f gauge..back when i had both cats removed(due to my header)..my a/f guage has alwayz been connected to the 1st o2 sensor..so i don't know if it will give you accurate readings..b/c of the MIL ELiminator..changing the voltage!

Chas(homework)

 

[joka1]

ya but i heard the primary (narrowband) o2 sensor will give you a lightshow because of the changing voltages so much!

 

[acidbug]

ya but i heard the primary (narrowband) o2 sensor will give you a lightshow because of the changing voltages so much!

both oxygen sensors are narrow band..as soon as i hit boost..i automagically go all the way green!

Chas

 

[joka1]

oopz,
rob

 

[TDK]

Ok, in my case i have a Haltech e6x computer installed. The stock ECU is still there, but that just runs things like the climate control, etc.

When i put the pedal to the ground i get a CEL. Shoudn't this not happen considering that i have a completey different computer running the car. If i implemented this HOW-TO, would it fix my problem.

Thanks.

 

[mrpopnfresh]

I have my A/F meter spliced into my ecu. Is this a problem? Would it be better to splice it with my actual 02 sensors? Also, I'm guessing there isn't, but is there a way I can get rid of a cel from my cam gears. I have adjustable cam gears and every now and then I thow a cell. I don't want to have to keep resetting my ECU. Thanks

 

[acidbug]

Ok, in my case i have a Haltech e6x computer installed. The stock ECU is still there, but that just runs things like the climate control, etc.

When i put the pedal to the ground i get a CEL. Shoudn't this not happen considering that i have a completey different computer running the car. If i implemented this HOW-TO, would it fix my problem.

Thanks.

I dont' think the MIL eliminator will work for you..sounds like you don't have your e6k wired properly..what's the code you are gettin?

<TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 824627" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>mrpopnfresh</TD><TD class=alt2>I have my A/F meter spliced into my ecu. Is this a problem? Would it be better to splice it with my actual 02 sensors? Also, I'm guessing there isn't, but is there a way I can get rid of a cel from my cam gears. I have adjustable cam gears and every now and then I thow a cell. I don't want to have to keep resetting my ECU. Thanks</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

It's ok to splice into the ecu..but if there was ever a short..i would prefer it to be closer to the o2 sensor which is cheap..compared to a $1k ecu!

Can't help you on the cam gears...you shouldn't be getting any cel from them..there are a couple people running them..

Chas