How TO: CEL/MIL Eliminator!

acidbbg said:
well let us know if it comes back..

chas


it did =(
i'm trying out the nonfouler trick but i need to buy myself a 1/2" bit first
the thickest one i have is 1/4"
 
Anyone know where I can get the nonfouler in Canada?? i dun see them in auto store like canadian tire
 
Fai said:
Anyone know where I can get the nonfouler in Canada?? i dun see them in auto store like canadian tire



Dude...

Try NAPA. I got mine from there
Canadian Tire can order them for you through their 'HELP' product line, but the clerks are all idiots and wonn't know how to order them
 
Thanks for the help guys, i just ordered mine at NAPA, should be here on tuesday.
 
When I first got my header installed I used the Cap and Res, it didn't work very well. After about 40 miles the CEL would come back on. After fighting with different sizes and polarized and what not. I put my wirring back to stock and tried the nonfouler, I told myself that if this doesn't work I'm putting it back to stock and selling the damn header. Well I'm not selling the header anymore. I'm not trying to take any props away from anyone who has done the electronics and had it work, but people keep putting on here that they try it and it works, then you follow down a couple of replies and they are saying the the CEL is back.
I have had the nonfoulers on for about 300 miles and so far so good.
Could it be something with the year of the car maybe in the programing?
I have a 2003.5, but I just don't want to see people going thru the troubles like I did. Make it easy on yourself and go with the nonfoulers to start, you'll be glad you did.
 
With these headers, do you remove all cats or something? I don't doubt the fouler works and if it was known when I did the CEL fix, I probably would of use it for it's ease of use, but I have the electronic way on mine and I have been going over a year on it. Now I have a 3" exhaust with 1 high flow CAT with the 2nd O2 after the cat. I had a CEL saying something about the heater ciruit and when I did the fix, it went away. What codes are you getting with the headers? It has to be with the type of code you are getting.
 
Okay, so you would still have the 2nd O2 behind the cat right. I wonder why it works for some and not others? Do you know what the code is you get? Oh well, the anti fouler is a much easier way to do it anyway.
 
Don't know the code, but the 2nd o2 is located at the end of the header. The exhaust system goes exhaust port -> 1st 02 -> 1st cat -> 2nd 02 -> 2nd cat -> cat-back exhaust.

And the reason it probably didn't work for you is that the 1st cat takes a lot more out of the exhaust stream than the 2nd cat or a hi-flow cat would ever take out...
 
Bigg Tim and Lord Zath you guys are both correct, I'm running the OBX header, mazdaspeed exhaust, and an ijen CIA. The nonfouler went into the end of the header(2nd sensor)
I kept getting p0421 something about the 1st cat below threshold.
Now I'm still having problems with the EGR tube leaking at the header. I even took the Throttle body off and tried to remove the other side of the tube and put back on in reverse, but i couldn't get a wrench down in there to save my life. I have a friend that owns a company in PA where he bends pipe for a living. I'm going to take a ride up there one day and see if I can get a new pipe bent an inch or so longer, or maybe get him to make me a braided line that has the fittings I need.
 
Lord_Zath said:
Don't know the code, but the 2nd o2 is located at the end of the header. The exhaust system goes exhaust port -> 1st 02 -> 1st cat -> 2nd 02 -> 2nd cat -> cat-back exhaust.

And the reason it probably didn't work for you is that the 1st cat takes a lot more out of the exhaust stream than the 2nd cat or a hi-flow cat would ever take out...

So there is no cat in front of the 2nd O2? If not then that's why it doesn't work with the resistor/capacitor. We have our 2nd O2 after a cat, so the resistor setup gives it that extra clamp to trick the ECU into thinking everything is cool. You have no difference between the 1st O2 and the 2nd one without a cat, so the resistor isn't enough. The non fouler is perfect for that setup because it only lets a little of the exhaust to the O2 so that tells the ECU everything is okay. If you are running a header, then don't even waste your time with the resistor/capacitor setup, go right with the anti fouler way.
 
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Agreed. I do think, htough, that the different sensors have different tasks. For example, the first o2 sensor helps the ecu tune the fuel maps and timing. The second o2 sensor helps the ecu make sure the emissions system is working properly.

The resistor works by changing the o2 sensor's voltage from variable (sensing what's going on) to fixed (always reading the same thing). It will work if it's done correctly. But the nonfouler is a much better/easier way to go.
 
Lord_Zath said:
Agreed. I do think, htough, that the different sensors have different tasks. For example, the first o2 sensor helps the ecu tune the fuel maps and timing. The second o2 sensor helps the ecu make sure the emissions system is working properly.

The resistor works by changing the o2 sensor's voltage from variable (sensing what's going on) to fixed (always reading the same thing). It will work if it's done correctly. But the nonfouler is a much better/easier way to go.

Right, it makes it steady so the ECU doesn't see that there is a malfunction with the cat. The ECU compares the signals of the 2 sensors and expects the rear one to be at a certain range to designate that the cat is working. When you get rid of it, there are no differences so it throws the CEL. And it uses both inputs from the sensors to tune fuel and timing.
 
I have no o2 bung after my cat on my P5 midpipe and I have a MSP engine. Could I plug the o2 sensor in the engine bay, make the cel fix and tie-wrap the sensor somewhere in the engine bay? Or maybe it needs some kind of ground??

Tanks!
 
zmepro said:
so if i didn't have the MIL it would cut fuel or run too rich?

i think this would happen if you didn't have the fix - i have a straight pipe and the 2nd O2 sensor in the catless pipe (1st in the jpipe) and this is what happened to my ground for the O2 sensor.

short_1.jpg

wire is completely shorted out. I'm assuming you get enough bogus signals and the effin' thing just shorts itself out. I'm going to rip apart the wiring harness today and find out exactly where it started, but seems like effed up signal will just short out the wires.
 

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