How TO: CEL/MIL Eliminator!
- Thread starter acidbug
- Start date
JCell said:
It will if it prevents you from your car throwing a CEL!
Why? Because under CEL conditions, the engine runs richer to prevent ping/detonation. So your gas mileage will be horrid... not to mention the hp.
As for the two fixes, solder vs nonfouler, I agree it is everyone's choice. I have done the nonfouler and 300 miles later so far so good! I'm a neat freak and paranoid to boot. So I don't like cutting into wires unless I have to!
LZ
Z
acidbbg said:
I meant a technically specific reason pertaining to the performance of the two.
It just seems that it is a lot more hassle to find the perfect resistors and get it to work.
With non fouler - there's no cutting, it costs about $4, and it works!
cable43 said:
No one tried the non fouler when the thread was started. So acid tried this method and it works perfect with the parts I posted a picture of. If the non fouler works, then it would be worth it because you don't have to cut into wires. Can't give any technical differences, as long as they both work, who cares how it works. The non fouler does seem to be easier, if I knew about it in the beginning I would of went that route, it seems easier. But the resistor setup works fine also.
- :
- 92 & 16 Meyatas
i'd did the resistor and capacitor last night...cost me $4 and took about 30 mins including jacking the car up. started the car and no cel....will give it a few miles and see how it goes.
here's a quick how to
I stole it from Evolutionm.net
the Part number is 42002 ( Help Brand)
This is how to make a mechanical o2 fix if you have a header like OBX or AWR, that gives a cel. You can find it on ebay for about 15 dollars shipped. But why buy it when you can make it for 3 dollars using parts from your local Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc?<br />
<br />
First of all you will need 2 spark plug anti-foulers (18mm). It is made by the HELP! brand part#42002 or 42009.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01106.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
You will also need a 1/2" drill bit and drill. Or a drill bit close to that size<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01108.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
Drill one one the anti-foulers so that the o2 sensor can fit. I recommend using a vise grip and lube for the drill bit if you ever plan on using it again.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01110.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
This is how the hole should look after. If it doesn't come out nice use a dremel or a file.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01111.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
Put the one anti-fouler you drilled and connect it on top of the one you didn't. Now you don't have to buy a electrical fix and splice your wires.<br />
<br />
Here it is installed. I recommend using anti seize on all treads.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01114.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01115.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
I stole it from Evolutionm.net
the Part number is 42002 ( Help Brand)
This is how to make a mechanical o2 fix if you have a header like OBX or AWR, that gives a cel. You can find it on ebay for about 15 dollars shipped. But why buy it when you can make it for 3 dollars using parts from your local Pep Boys or Auto Zone, etc?<br />
<br />
First of all you will need 2 spark plug anti-foulers (18mm). It is made by the HELP! brand part#42002 or 42009.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01106.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
You will also need a 1/2" drill bit and drill. Or a drill bit close to that size<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01108.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
Drill one one the anti-foulers so that the o2 sensor can fit. I recommend using a vise grip and lube for the drill bit if you ever plan on using it again.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01110.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
This is how the hole should look after. If it doesn't come out nice use a dremel or a file.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01111.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
Put the one anti-fouler you drilled and connect it on top of the one you didn't. Now you don't have to buy a electrical fix and splice your wires.<br />
<br />
Here it is installed. I recommend using anti seize on all treads.<br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01114.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
<img src="http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/album260/DSC01115.jpg" border="0" alt="" /> <br />
Last edited:
I'm Sorry, but I have a question..I'm not understanding something..btw Nice How to for the nonfouler enthusiasts
Why did you give up on it? what could go wrong in this installation? and from my understanding you put that in the opening on the header where the first precat is supposed to go, then the sensor?...how does this negate the Cel from showing? technically
Why did you give up on it? what could go wrong in this installation? and from my understanding you put that in the opening on the header where the first precat is supposed to go, then the sensor?...how does this negate the Cel from showing? technically
J dragon said:
Sorry that was a typo
the fix goes on the Second bung
Rough example:
First bung- normal o2 sensor goes there
Second bung is down here
THIS IS WHERE THE NON FOULER GOES
you put the o2 sensor on after it
I hope this clears some things up.
Again... I have 1700+ miles with no CEL!
Word!
Which Mil eliminator method is suggested. I will do either one its no big deal but just want the one that will be right the first time. (dont want to read through 19 pages to get everyones opinion) If the solder method is the way to go are the parts on page 1 still the correct parts or has it been modified.
