Yup, those nuts are on there so tight, I snapped a 3/8" drive extension in half trying to loosen it, also messed up the ratchet as well. Since they were Craftsman, I took em to Sears, got brand new stuff. Glad I won't ever have to go down there and do anything with those motor mounts again (knock on wood).
How-To : AWR Rear Mount Install
- Thread starter gar777
- Start date
dannyboy17
Member
- :
- MSP Protege
I was trying to clean my EGR valve when I noticed something.
This part right next to the rear motor mount is very loose, to the point that it rattles a lot. I tried tightening the bolt but it wasnt doing anything at all, I spin it for like 30 mins straight (due to the space limitation I had to do very little at a time, so it took a whole for a complete spin) and still its just as loose as before.
This part right next to the rear motor mount is very loose, to the point that it rattles a lot. I tried tightening the bolt but it wasnt doing anything at all, I spin it for like 30 mins straight (due to the space limitation I had to do very little at a time, so it took a whole for a complete spin) and still its just as loose as before.
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- -- 03 P5 / 23 CX-5 --
WTF is that?
I don't know what it's supposed to do but it should'nt be loose...i've seen this on mine changing for awr's.I recall there's a flat somewhere on the circle side so it should be a kind of rotation stopper. tightenning the main bolt should get it tight though. maybe the rubber is so worn you where just getting the bolt head throught it while tightenning.??
It's in the way for one of the 3 mount bolts. I didn't break mine off, just bent it out of the way, and then bent it back. The bracket is plenty secure with just the one bolt. It's not going anywhere.
I finished this last night. Took me 3 hours of wrenching, and 3 hours looking for the spacer for the long bolt that I dropped into the engine bay. doh.
The write up is pretty spot on, except I was able to hit the lower nut on the bracket from above by making a cut in the lower "shelf" of the bracket with a pair of kitchen shears to peel it up a bit to see the lower bolt. That made things a lot easier, and I was able to fit a shallow 10mm socket w/ u-joint on it from there. Once it's started, it's finger loose, so you can just spin it off by hand.
First i put the front only on (88 duro). The vibration at idle was pretty bad. The old front mount was completely torn, so i suspected that the rear was just as bad and that was part of the vibration. I put the rear on, and at idle it's not bad at all. However, the vibration at throttle tip-in is tremendous. It smooths out after about 1500 rpm. the noise is the most noticable difference. The entire cabin is now a subwoofer for the engine's hum. sounds good under WOT, but i'm hoping that the mounts soften up some before my wife drives the car. I've read on here that the side mount inserts help? If it continues to be bad, maybe i'll try that.
The good news: mounts installed when bought car
The bad news: front and rear mounts installed when bought car LOL. Well they're red but I'm not sure which hardness they are; since they were done in like 2004, I'm thinking 95s were specd for MT cars then? Interior really resonates with engine vibrations. Other mounts are all stock.
Will going back to a stock front mount help much? If so anybody got a decent one to sell reasonable? Or maybe try to drill/remove some of the material to soften mine up - oh the irony...
AWR does sell replacement bushings for like 10 bucks per mount. Gonna try some 70 durometers. Mine gotta be 95s, they're hard as billiard balls.
The bad news: front and rear mounts installed when bought car LOL. Well they're red but I'm not sure which hardness they are; since they were done in like 2004, I'm thinking 95s were specd for MT cars then? Interior really resonates with engine vibrations. Other mounts are all stock.
Will going back to a stock front mount help much? If so anybody got a decent one to sell reasonable? Or maybe try to drill/remove some of the material to soften mine up - oh the irony...
AWR does sell replacement bushings for like 10 bucks per mount. Gonna try some 70 durometers. Mine gotta be 95s, they're hard as billiard balls.
Last edited:
loveofmoney69
Member
- :
- Mazda,MP3,2001
I just did my rear mount today. thanks to this thread i did it under 2 hours.
Just wanted to say thanks for everyone's pointers and tips.Made my life a little easier today.
Just wanted to say thanks for everyone's pointers and tips.Made my life a little easier today.
blueprotegelx
iZoom
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- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
I am having second thoughts on doing the rear mount. I am a little worried about the vibrations, yes i should not worry about what other people think while riding in my car, but considering my girlfriend rides with me a lot I have to consider it. When doing my front mount and driving, I familiarized myself with the idle, and realized if giving the car a little gas while stopped, it did not vibrate as bad. Have any of you by chance done this with the rear and front installed? (raising rpm's a little at stop light to decrease vibration) Did the vibration decrease?
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
I was trying to clean my EGR valve when I noticed something.
This part right next to the rear motor mount is very loose, to the point that it rattles a lot. I tried tightening the bolt but it wasnt doing anything at all, I spin it for like 30 mins straight (due to the space limitation I had to do very little at a time, so it took a whole for a complete spin) and still its just as loose as before.
I seriously hope that is NOT Your rear motor mount!! If it is get a new one fast...
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
The little black thing you don't need I don't think. Mine doesn't have it. You will get more engine/transmission noises in the cab due to the rear motor mount. Vibrations are mainly from the rear mount as well.
blueprotegelx
iZoom
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
I was trying to clean my EGR valve when I noticed something.
This part right next to the rear motor mount is very loose, to the point that it rattles a lot. I tried tightening the bolt but it wasnt doing anything at all, I spin it for like 30 mins straight (due to the space limitation I had to do very little at a time, so it took a whole for a complete spin) and still its just as loose as before.
dude is your rear motor mount cracked or is that just a bad welding job? i think that may be your rattling problem b/c it definetely looks cracked to me!
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Yep thats why I made the comment earlier on it. It def loks cracked to me.
those are speed cracks it adds 10 hp haha i want to do the same to mine,,seriously i would get that fixed asap
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
No those are cracks from the awsomeness that is the MSP! lol
blueprotegelx
iZoom
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege LX-T
yeah i don't think there's anything about that crack being awesome. haha. would it be reliable being welded back together possible or having to buy a new one? i'm curious how that broke? i guess you guys are right, it's caused from the awesomeness power of the MSP. ha.
Ya get that crack looked at. And for those that even consider cabin vibration to be even the slightest issue, do not do the rear motor mount. Even with the softest urathane bushing, it's alot more noticable than stock, and even way more than what you feel between a stock front and urathane front. I'd look into side inserts instead.
