How many Brits? Fancy a cuppa?

[Pluvia Plumbum]

The time has come when I will be parting company with my Mazda after an enjoyable 18 months. Despite the odd glitch DPF regens and Dipstick issues aside, it hasn't put a foot wrong in nearly 10,000 miles, but I am downsizing and going Hybrid as my motoring needs have changed. I have a space saver spare wheel kit , an unused replacement 19" Toyo ( bought from Applauso) and a Boot Load liner for sale if anyone is interested, North West and East Midlands for practicality only, but PM me if you are interested. The numberplate CX5 5KY X is also up for grabs.

Regards, PP

Just a quick update, the car and the plate have now gone ( We buy Any Car - despite the online reputation for chopping the quoted price once you get there for an appraisal) gave me exactly what I had been quoted beating my best PX offer by some 1400. The guy I dealt with at Blackburn was really friendly to deal with and all in all was a pleasant experience all round. It also helps if there is nothing to find to knock you down on mind.!

The Bits & Bobs are still available for sensible offers.!

Regards, PP

 

[Mountkeen]

Interesting about the WBAC lot. Which new car have you gone for as a matter of interest?

 

[Pluvia Plumbum]

Interesting about the WBAC lot. Which new car have you gone for as a matter of interest?

Still undecided as both have genuinely unique features, I am willing to go for the BMWi3 range extender as I like the driving position ( its actually quite a similar View out to The CX5 in that respect) and the 85-95 real world battery range would be fine for 95% of our journeys. Mrs PP likes Audis and that has a higher level of spec for and the cabin ambience is a bit more upmarket/conventional. The Audi has a more complex drive arrangement, but would in the case of a battery pack dying still have a Turbo 1.4 to get you around, where as the i3 has a 'simpler' electric drive system with fewer mechanical gubbins to fail, then its a preference/choice of FWD vs RWD. Both are VERY quick off the line in the traffic light Grand prix, the i3 was quoted as faster than an M3 to 40/50.

I'm usually quite decisive, but am genuinely torn between the two. Neither would be a terrible choice.

 

[dad of jon]

Just a quick update, the car and the plate have now gone ( We buy Any Car - despite the online reputation for chopping the quoted price once you get there for an appraisal) gave me exactly what I had been quoted beating my best PX offer by some 1400. The guy I dealt with at Blackburn was really friendly to deal with and all in all was a pleasant experience all round. It also helps if there is nothing to find to knock you down on mind.!

The Bits & Bobs are still available for sensible offers.!

Regards, PP

I've used them twice now on 5 and yr year old cars and they've beaten the p/ex by 300/400 on both occasions, so still worth doing instead of p/ex.

 

[SuffolkBoy]

Hi, has anyone fitted a DAB radio to their CX-5 yet? I am thinking of buying the Pure Highway 300di for mine - anybody got any experience of this unit?
Thanks

 

[Gareth45]

Fitted a DAB motion aerial fitted on rear hatch window,glad I did as had quite a few glass chips on front screen

 

[Mountkeen]

How does the standard head unit deal with a digital input?

 

[profiler]

HELP !!! Am looking for ANYONE in the UK who has a mica soul red CX-5 and who has had bodywork repair .... if so, please let me know if the repair / colour matching was done to you satisfaction .. and if so, where was the work done. Our CX-5 was bought as an ex-demonstrator with 1000 mile son the clock. Had a minor (less than 2 inches) scratch on nearside front door which dealer "repaired" prior to collection .. on day of collection, looked fine, but since, looking in different lights etc. ... it is clearly a bad match. Dealer had car in to correct this - which resulted in a larger area being "blended" with what is clearly a bad colour match. I suspect, with what has been posted in this forum on another thread about tough up colour sticks, that this colour is potentially impossible to repair to a satisfactory level of colour match.

 

[m4zda.man]

Hi,

Just had my 1st service at Mazda dealer, 1 year to the day since I bought it there new 9400 miles ago. Two points to raise, call me suspicious but having returned home (less than 2 miles) I checked the oil level on the dipstick and noted that the level was coincidentally exactly where it was before - half way between the full o and x mark - and also it was pretty black in colour (was hoping to see nice new oil colour). They must have changed it?? I'd like to have checked the oil filter canister but couldn't see one - is that because there isn't one?

The other thing I asked the dealer to check was what I took to be pitting corrosion on the front alloy wheels in the radius where the 'spoke' meets the rim. The service manager told me it was just "brake dust", and not a manufacturing defect, and could be removed with something like T Cut. Just had a go, and removed some but by no means all. Got several photos. BTW, I don't live near the sea, and don't recall our roads salted last winter.
Anyone else seen anything similar?

 

[xtrailman]

Funny you should mention your car coming back from service with oil at the same level as it went in. Mine was EXACTLY the same, service at a GK dealer.

Oil did look slightly cleaner and oil quickly gets dirty on diesels quickly from experience. But now you've got me thinking.
Time was when I would mark the oil canister but on recent cars the filter isn't easily accessed, its under an access cover under the engine.

I did check the oil spec on the invoice but perhaps I am getting too trusting myself. I did only 7K miles so I'm not that worried about it, I usually change under 30K miles.

I think you should challenge them, I now wish I had done, but two people with the same oil level seems odd.

 

[ROCKETRON]

Maybe they measure what comes out and fill it up with the same amount. Assuming that the oil was changed, and i would be surprised if it wasn't,then having a higher level of new oil will help to negate the effects of filling the sump with diesel at the regens.

 

[StackH]

The other thing I asked the dealer to check was what I took to be pitting corrosion on the front alloy wheels in the radius where the 'spoke' meets the rim. The service manager told me it was just "brake dust", and not a manufacturing defect, and could be removed with something like T Cut. Just had a go, and removed some but by no means all. Got several photos. BTW, I don't live near the sea, and don't recall our roads salted last winter.
Anyone else seen anything similar?

Try CarPro Iron-X to remove any baked on brake dust - it sometimes needs a few goes but has certainly worked for me in the past.

 

[xtrailman]

Maybe they measure what comes out and fill it up with the same amount. Assuming that the oil was changed, and i would be surprised if it wasn't,then having a higher level of new oil will help to negate the effects of filling the sump with diesel at the regens.

When I took the car back I asked the service desk that but was told no.
The point of a service is to do what's scheduled correctly, its important not to overfill a diesel engine so it doesn't run on its sump oil, which destroys the engine.

I used the collect service for convenience but next time I'll sit and wait then check the oil level before the car moves.
I'll also be making a permanent mark on the oil filter.

If you have a concern about oil dilution then regular checks using a testing kit, or oil change is the best option.

 

[ROCKETRON]

When i had my first service i asked the mechanic after he had finished if they used the Mazda good quality oil and he assured me they only use that. When i paid my bill i noticed i was charged for Castrol OIL, when i queried it with the service advisor he said that they use Castrol oil. I then asked him why the mechanic said it was Mazda oil and he said it comes from a big bulk tank and so he wouldn't actually know what oil he was using. The thing is we dont even know if we are getting good quality oil or not and with the diesel contamination we really do need the best quality oil available. I feel that even if the oil level only raises a little bit until the next service the dilution makes a mockery of the latest oil technology.

 

[Perusal]

When i had my first service i asked the mechanic after he had finished if they used the Mazda good quality oil and he assured me they only use that. When i paid my bill i noticed i was charged for Castrol OIL, when i queried it with the service advisor he said that they use Castrol oil. I then asked him why the mechanic said it was Mazda oil and he said it comes from a big bulk tank and so he wouldn't actually know what oil he was using. The thing is we dont even know if we are getting good quality oil or not and with the diesel contamination we really do need the best quality oil available. I feel that even if the oil level only raises a little bit until the next service the dilution makes a mockery of the latest oil technology.

Sorry, that's a little bit naive. However since I had the benefit of working in the lubricants industry for 25 years let me explain. Each car manufacturer selects a standard for the oil used in their various engines. In Europe the standards are set by ACEA, in the USA it's API and I think in Japan it was JASO. (I have been retired a few years now.....).

The various oil companies develop their lube oils to meet these standards all of which undergo thorough laboratory rig and then road testing over thousands of miles before meeting the required standard/specification. Each of the major oil companies uses different chemistry mixes formulated in-house to achieve the standards whilst the smaller companies will buy off the shelf packages direct from the additive companies e.g. Lubrizol. The "grade" of oil then delivers things like viscosity eg 5W-30, 10W-40 and so on. The base oils into which the additive packages are mixed can be mineral, semi-synthetic and full synthetics and together with viscosity modifiers you will blend an oil meeting a required spec. I won't go into the differences here.

Anyway, whilst some car manufacturers will "recommend" a brand because of a commercial tie-up eg BMW and Audi with Castrol, Renault with Total etc as long as the correct specification of oil and correct grade is used you should have no problems whatsoever ie the brand is pretty much irrelevant.

The car manufacturers do not blend their own oils, they will merely rebrand somebody else's. For example, Ford's Motorcraft oils are simply a rebrand of a major oil company (look at the rally cars if you want a clue ;-).

 

[m4zda.man]

Funny you should mention your car coming back from service with oil at the same level as it went in. Mine was EXACTLY the same, service at a GK dealer.

Oil did look slightly cleaner and oil quickly gets dirty on diesels quickly from experience. But now you've got me thinking.
Time was when I would mark the oil canister but on recent cars the filter isn't easily accessed, its under an access cover under the engine.

I did check the oil spec on the invoice but perhaps I am getting too trusting myself. I did only 7K miles so I'm not that worried about it, I usually change under 30K miles.

I think you should challenge them, I now wish I had done, but two people with the same oil level seems odd.

Well, I decided to look deeper, put the car on ramps and removed the 2 access panels. I was wrong - there was evidence that the oil and filter had been changed.

But I still wanted to clarify the oil level situation so went back to the dealer and spoke to the service manager. I told him I thought it had been overfilled, so we went to check the car. He asked me to run it for a couple of minutes. When I switched the engine off I was surprised that he checked the oil level immediately, and it was dead on the full mark. I challenged him about this and was told that was the correct way to check the oil level.

At home I checked the Owner's Manual, and on page 6-22 it says, with a warmed up engine, "turn it off and wait at least 5 minutes . ." So Mazda were wrong on this point. I thought I'd do some checks on dipstick oil level after increasing periods of time, with car on level ground. What I found was that after 7 minutes the level was 4mm above full mark; after 60 mins it was 7mm above full mark, and the next day (12 hours) the level was 11mm above full mark - of course the engine was cold at this point.

For those interested the distance between the low and full marks (actually 2mm holes) is 26mm, and it is a further 32mm from full mark to the max X mark. I'm just going to live with it, and keep checking the oil level. Has anyone had experience of the 'X' mark being reached between services, and if so, did Mazda do the necessary oil change FOC?

 

[xtrailman]

Since my service my mpg has dropped noticeably by up to 4mpg.

Before service locally I was averaging around 44mpg on the average computer reading, last year it was around 43mpg on a new engine.
Today its dropped to 39.7 mpg. Something's not right.

Has your economy suffered? Or anyone else had this issue?

 

[ROCKETRON]

Since my service my mpg has dropped noticeably by up to 4mpg.

Before service locally I was averaging around 44mpg on the average computer reading, today its dropped to 39.7 mpg.
Something's not right.

Has your economy suffered? Or anyone else had this issue?

Check that they haven't left tyre pressures low(common). But low mpg is usually just worse road conditions or slightly different driving style. The other possibility is that it is doing more regens as that knocks the mpg down a bit. Also did they check or readjust the handbrake during the service if so it might be worth rolling down a small gradient in neutral to make sure brakes not binding as that can make quite a difference to mpg. Also mpg tends to drop 2-3mpg anyway when winter starts but here in London its still like summer but dont know about Worksop. You could also ask if they did anything else at the service

 

[xtrailman]

17 degrees here today so not exactly winter.

Tyre pressures are same as they when in, driving style is the same.

I'll check the brakes next time out, I've email Mazda as I don't usually see 39mpg even in winter, my car lives in a heated garage so is usually a minimum of 9 degrees all year due to the central heating boiler being there and the fact that its integral.

 

[Geoff]

Since my service my mpg has dropped noticeably by up to 4mpg.

Before service locally I was averaging around 44mpg on the average computer reading, last year it was around 43mpg on a new engine.
Today its dropped to 39.7 mpg. Something's not right.

Has your economy suffered? Or anyone else had this issue?

My mpg hasn't changed it's been around 38 mpg from new. I'm surprised you've been getting readings in the 40's. My car is the same spec as yours. I am due to get my second service in a couple of weeks, hopefully whatever they do will not make my consumption drop any lower as it's ridiculous as it presently is.