Hope for us Auto Guys yet...

I have a regular automatic, no shifttronic and mine is boosted. Just dont high rev it in first or second gear.
 
i have the reg auto...just driving around i'll start in drive, when it shifts to 2nd i manually down shift to 2nd and will keep it there to keep the revs up then shift it to drive when i'm crusing...when i really want to go, i'll start in 1st and do some low boost, off the gas for a sec and shift to 2nd and take it to 6 psi, then into drive and boost all the way to 7K then to OD, no boost here
 
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I have tiptronic (shiftronic?) in mine and I do use it quite often. With the turbo installed it honestly does help, because it gives me the ability to control the stress on the tranny. If I'm in regular D then the tranny will shift when it feels like it (even if I'm in boost) but when in M (tiptronic) mode I can let off the gas first, then shift on my own without the boost putting extra stress on the tranny.

But for daily grandma driving, I do use regular automatic mode.
 
found this it should work for us, I guess basicly it changes the signal to the epc solenoid to increase pressure to firm shifts, I ordered it and will keep u guys updated if it will work for the mazdas.
http://www.escortfocus.com/html/shift_improver.html
The focus trans does have different case but all internals and gears are the same between then, lentech probally has'nt sold enough mazdas to keep cases around, most times you can ship them your trans and they can do a rebuild-turnaround in a few days.
 
asmo 03 mp5 said:
I bought alto master kit #133750ahppsc it includes all clutches steels the power pack upgrade, seals, and filter its for the 4f27e trans. I would recomend just the #133750ahppwr kit it only has the clutchs and steels with the upgrade but alot of the other parts in my kit I cant use, the ford uses different pump seal and filter etc. I would get a mazda fn4ael over haul kit from transstar or another company and probally have less headaches instead of trying to find the right filter, seals ,etc. the master kit cost about $250 but I spent another $40 getting the filter and pump seal around town plus you need all the molded pistons the kit doesnt include them. they were bout $200 they are all the same as 4f27e except the reverse one so I bought a 4f27e kit and the other piston seperate, could have saved money but didnt want to wait for order. I think a transtar kit for fn4ael with the pistons is available cheaper but I didnt know then about the differences between the ford and mazda. then bought the ford racing #m4209-fd kit it has the heavy duty input shaft and torque converter, they just discontinued this kit so I found it from mcnews auto for $650- about half of retail. It has a TCS converter if you want one they probally will still sell this kit. And yes Im doing it myself but I have worked as pretty much a mechanic so its not too difficult for me.on a scale of 1-10 a 1 would be installing a CAI a 10 would be the trans, I run no cats have a non-fouler and every inspection they never even look, lucky me.

im confused...which one do we need?
 
you'll want the 133750ahppwr kit it has all the clutches and steels, the link is just the powerpack upgrade, just new clutches and steels for the direct clutch.
I hope to have my setup running here in the next week or so, after a few miles Ill do a post about the total project with pics and part numbers etc.
 
just did the tranny temp sender relocation...a little tight fit around that area but it looks like its working better than before now...temps seem more stable...im assuming it was getting hotter than it the fluid was really getting in its old position due to the fact that it was sitting in close proximity to the turbo and the block...
 
just did the tranny temp sender relocation...a little tight fit around that area but it looks like its working better than before now...temps seem more stable...im assuming it was getting hotter than it the fluid was really getting in its old position due to the fact that it was sitting in close proximity to the turbo and the block...

I'm glad you put the sender in the pan like I did. Now the temps will be the most accurate. With the right trans cooler the temp will never go above 170 degrees even in stop and go traffic.
 
I'm curious to know why "the proper" place to monitor the transmission temp is a sendor in the oil pan. If that is suppose to be representative of the transmission's operating temp, then why am I seeing temps as high as 225*F on the transmission fluid outlet? I need to put a sendor in my drain plug and see how the temps compare. I'll probably keep all the other sendors as well, so I'll have 3 monitoring the fluid out of the transmission, into the transmission and in the pan.
 
well, the original instructions say to tap a hole into the pan to place the sender, so i would assume thats what its meant to record... plus, from my observations, im thinking that the temps that your seeing coming from the tranny are being affected by engine bay temperature...
 
I'm curious to know why "the proper" place to monitor the transmission temp is a sendor in the oil pan. If that is suppose to be representative of the transmission's operating temp, then why am I seeing temps as high as 225*F on the transmission fluid outlet? I need to put a sendor in my drain plug and see how the temps compare. I'll probably keep all the other sendors as well, so I'll have 3 monitoring the fluid out of the transmission, into the transmission and in the pan.

LoL!! Tom you're sick haha!! But, your multiple sensors are definitely good research for the community :)
 
A little off the current topic but i guess not.
which company is typically prefered for the overhaul kits? I wonder what you get for the extra $1200 by going level10.. their site doesn't outline their product all that well =\.

Boost would be great, but if you can spend $2000-3000 on a tranny and still pop it with a heavy foot feck that.
 
It's all about finesse and getting used to boost. If you really love your car, you'll learn how to drive it properly so you don't destroy it.
 
is there anyway to remap how it will drop gears in full auto mode? I tend to baby it a bit when i want it to shift by letting off untill its done its thing so i would'nt have to change too much. but im afraid that after boost it will wanna drop gears left and right if you get on it too hard.

ah well. ive definitly learned that really getting on it doesnt make it go faster lol. more jerkey yes but...
 

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