Honeymoon over?

[DrWebster]

As for grounding the throttle body, it's quite easy. Get a length of 8 gauge automotive wire (like the kind used to wire up a car stereo amp) and crimp a ring terminal to each end. Disconnect the battery, then remove the bolt that holds the battery's ground wire to the chassis (I think it's on the inside of the driver's side fender). Stack the ring terminal of the new wire on top of the existing ground wire's terminal, then put the bolt back in. Then, at the throttle body, remove one of the bolts that holds the throttle body to the engine, stick it through the ring terminal on the other end of the new wire, then put the bolt back in.

 

[magnumP5]

As for grounding the throttle body, it's quite easy. Get a length of 8 gauge automotive wire (like the kind used to wire up a car stereo amp) and crimp a ring terminal to each end. Disconnect the battery, then remove the bolt that holds the battery's ground wire to the chassis (I think it's on the inside of the driver's side fender). Stack the ring terminal of the new wire on top of the existing ground wire's terminal, then put the bolt back in. Then, at the throttle body, remove one of the bolts that holds the throttle body to the engine, stick it through the ring terminal on the other end of the new wire, then put the bolt back in.

I assume you've done this on the 2? Notice any reduction in the throttle lag?

 

[DrWebster]

I haven't done it on my 2 yet, but did it on our 2006 Mazda 3. Not a huge difference on that car, but it's such a cheap mod it doesn't hurt to do it.

 

[ROTAg]

This is an interesting thread to me, being a Mazdaspeed3 and Mazda2 owner all in one. I can see why someone would start to fall out of a 'Honeymoon' stage. At first the ol' girl is spirited and nimble, but really these two attributes only shine in a motorsport application. It's not too often that we get a rush by making a killer 'u' turn, turn to your passenger spouting on about 'best in class turn radius.' The 2 is really only marketed as a b-class combatant of the Fit and Yaris, I would mention a scion or two, but I'm trying to be serious here. So lets collect the facts* behind its concept (*generally)

-the 2 has nearly a 100 HP
-it weighs in around 2200 lbs
-the clutch is like stepping into a mud puddle
-fuel mileage is good-excellent
-you can put 1 dog in the trunk
-Handling from the factory is superb for everyday/spirited driving (as most Mazda's of late seem to be)
-4k more and you can be just as let down by power in a Fit

Now let's wad this all together and what do we get? Something that resembles the original Toyota AE86.....minus the novelty of being able to go sideways. Even that feature was greatly limited by the factory powerplant. Let's face it Hachi crowd, even your highly vaunted 4AGE, reguardless of valve cover color, wasn't exactly a piston shaped sledgehammer. But what makes that car and the 2 so good is Mazda's connection with the driver. You actually feel what your driving. The real problem is Mazda made the damn thing look like a cold heart-ed tire shredder, when really it's just content to carry momentum through corners well while you make 'vroom vroom' noises.

 

[PGTBrow]

^^^^ lol... vroom vroom noises

 

[magnumP5]

This is an interesting thread to me, being a Mazdaspeed3 and Mazda2 owner all in one. I can see why someone would start to fall out of a 'Honeymoon' stage. At first the ol' girl is spirited and nimble, but really these two attributes only shine in a motorsport application. It's not too often that we get a rush by making a killer 'u' turn, turn to your passenger spouting on about 'best in class turn radius.' The 2 is really only marketed as a b-class combatant of the Fit and Yaris, I would mention a scion or two, but I'm trying to be serious here. So lets collect the facts* behind its concept (*generally)

-the 2 has nearly a 100 HP
-it weighs in around 2200 lbs
-the clutch is like stepping into a mud puddle
-fuel mileage is good-excellent
-you can put 1 dog in the trunk
-Handling from the factory is superb for everyday/spirited driving (as most Mazda's of late seem to be)
-4k more and you can be just as let down by power in a Fit

Now let's wad this all together and what do we get? Something that resembles the original Toyota AE86.....minus the novelty of being able to go sideways. Even that feature was greatly limited by the factory powerplant. Let's face it Hachi crowd, even your highly vaunted 4AGE, reguardless of valve cover color, wasn't exactly a piston shaped sledgehammer. But what makes that car and the 2 so good is Mazda's connection with the driver. You actually feel what your driving. The real problem is Mazda made the damn thing look like a cold heart-ed tire shredder, when really it's just content to carry momentum through corners well while you make 'vroom vroom' noises.

I'm sort of confused by this post None of us who've posted in this thread appear to have had delusions of power with the 2. In fact, overall I'm quite pleased with my 2. It does exactly what I expected of it: get good fuel economy and by moderately fun to drive. My complaints are directed at the electronic throttle and how the A/C seems to affect the car's driveability. This is not something I realized during my first 8 months of ownership because I purchased my 2 in the Fall and I hadn't used the A/C until just a few weeks ago.

 

[inspekt]

The real problem is Mazda made the damn thing look like a cold hearted tire shredder...

lol! Well said. It's a hot-ass shape, the 2, deserving of more power. Don't get me wrong, I'm extremely content with this car as I think it has an ideal balance of truly fun-to-drive everydayness, and superb real world fuel economy. Still, even something as modest as 120hp would vitally transform this car, and improve the economy numbers at that. I think even 140hp isn't crazy talk.

 

[Bellysnout]

I fully expected the car to be more sluggish with the A/C on but I was really caught off guard. With the compressor engaged it is significantly more difficult to get it moving. If I'm lucky and the compressor isn't engaged when taking off everything is great. The jerking is the worst though. It behaves similarly to me quickly letting off the throttle and then getting right back on it every time the compressor switches on/off while the car is in motion. I suppose it can't hurt to give Mazda a little call...

Hi, been lurking the forums for a while but just registered to respond to this.

I have almost the same situation as you. Purchased last September and didn't use the AC until this summer. I am finding it becomes an absolute chore to drive with the A/C on (manual transmission). I like to think I can drive a stick pretty well, but this car throws me for a loop sometimes.

I find starting off in first to be ok for the most part (ECU likely helping out?), but any shift after that the RPM just drops like a rock when the A/C is cycling. I fully understand that the A/C is a power hog on our little 1.5L engine, but it becomes impossible to get a smooth shift without really abusing the clutch to smooth it out and likely abusing the synchros by needing to shift so fast. I have tried reving higher and shifting later and also shifting sooner at lower rpm, but I can't seem to figure this out.

As you mentioned, the worst part is the fact that the A/C cycles, so one minute you are trying to shift at lightning speed to catch the revs as they fall (A/C cycle on), the next the RPM hang as they usually do (A/C cycle off). It really messes with you! Needless to say if you aren't staring at the RPM and listening closely to see if the A/C is cycling at that moment you likely end up with a jerky shift.

I am getting mine checked out next month when it goes in for the next maintenance. I am really hoping that maybe there is an issue with the A/C compressor or the pressure or something... Otherwise my current solution is I really only use the A/C now if the wife is in the car, or I am on the highway.

I will update if they find anything out of the ordinary. I would figure there would be more complaints if it was like this for everyone. Otherwise if this sounds normal to you guys, what are your tips to smooth out your driving with the A/C on with the MT?

Thanks!

 

[MacAttack7]

Hi, been lurking the forums for a while but just registered to respond to this.

I have almost the same situation as you. Purchased last September and didn't use the AC until this summer. I am finding it becomes an absolute chore to drive with the A/C on (manual transmission). I like to think I can drive a stick pretty well, but this car throws me for a loop sometimes.

I find starting off in first to be ok for the most part (ECU likely helping out?), but any shift after that the RPM just drops like a rock when the A/C is cycling. I fully understand that the A/C is a power hog on our little 1.5L engine, but it becomes impossible to get a smooth shift without really abusing the clutch to smooth it out and likely abusing the synchros by needing to shift so fast. I have tried reving higher and shifting later and also shifting sooner at lower rpm, but I can't seem to figure this out.

As you mentioned, the worst part is the fact that the A/C cycles, so one minute you are trying to shift at lightning speed to catch the revs as they fall (A/C cycle on), the next the RPM hang as they usually do (A/C cycle off). It really messes with you! Needless to say if you aren't staring at the RPM and listening closely to see if the A/C is cycling at that moment you likely end up with a jerky shift.

I am getting mine checked out next month when it goes in for the next maintenance. I am really hoping that maybe there is an issue with the A/C compressor or the pressure or something... Otherwise my current solution is I really only use the A/C now if the wife is in the car, or I am on the highway.

I will update if they find anything out of the ordinary. I would figure there would be more complaints if it was like this for everyone. Otherwise if this sounds normal to you guys, what are your tips to smooth out your driving with the A/C on with the MT?

Thanks!

Same for me.
Luckily the weather where I live is pretty mild.

 

[Red2]

I drive my 2011 Sport 5spd with the air on all the time and don't notice these issues. It's a little more sluggish with the air on, but nothing compared to what some of you are reporting. If it was me, I'd be making an appointment to have this checked out while you're still in warranty. If they tell you there's nothing wrong, ask to test drive another car with the same set up and see if it's the same situation. If not, use that as a bit of leverage to get yours checked out deeper and hopefully fixed.

 

[thejeans]

As for grounding the throttle body, it's quite easy. Get a length of 8 gauge automotive wire (like the kind used to wire up a car stereo amp) and crimp a ring terminal to each end. Disconnect the battery, then remove the bolt that holds the battery's ground wire to the chassis (I think it's on the inside of the driver's side fender). Stack the ring terminal of the new wire on top of the existing ground wire's terminal, then put the bolt back in. Then, at the throttle body, remove one of the bolts that holds the throttle body to the engine, stick it through the ring terminal on the other end of the new wire, then put the bolt back in.

I assume you've done this on the 2? Notice any reduction in the throttle lag?

you can take that approach or take the approach of the Flex Innovations grounding kit on the 3 and ground it to several points in the engine bay including the negative terminal on the battery


ive seen several debates whether to run the wire from TB to factory ground or TB to negative terminal on battery...

 

[MacAttack7]

I drive my 2011 Sport 5spd with the air on all the time and don't notice these issues. It's a little more sluggish with the air on, but nothing compared to what some of you are reporting. If it was me, I'd be making an appointment to have this checked out while you're still in warranty. If they tell you there's nothing wrong, ask to test drive another car with the same set up and see if it's the same situation. If not, use that as a bit of leverage to get yours checked out deeper and hopefully fixed.

When shifting you don't notice any difference with the air on vs the air off? No difference at all? Just as smooth either way?

 

[Red2]

I don't notice any difference at all with the air on or off, other than being just a bit more sluggish (but not so much so that it doesn't seem natural being such a small motor). I've never felt any difference when the AC cycles at all. I also don't have any mods on mine, other than a K&N air filter which really isn't a mod is it?

 

[ROTAg]

I'm sort of confused by this post....

not ment to confuse you Mag. I'd like to see corksport pop a base 2 on their shiny new dyno and run the test with and without the AC. I'm only guessing here, but6-9 hp loss is significant in our little guys, especially when you can just put a % on the end of those numbers it makes even more sense that there are so many reports of sluggish throttle response ect. I agree, when the AC is on, i'm not expecting to overtake anything soon.... unless a smart car comes buzzing down a bicycle lane

 

[Joker2]

not ment to confuse you Mag. I'd like to see corksport pop a base 2 on their shiny new dyno and run the test with and without the AC. I'm only guessing here, but6-9 hp loss is significant in our little guys, especially when you can just put a % on the end of those numbers it makes even more sense that there are so many reports of sluggish throttle response ect. I agree, when the AC is on, i'm not expecting to overtake anything soon.... unless a smart car comes buzzing down a bicycle lane

This was already done by Andi Hollis or xlr8tng or someone else (sorry but it was a while ago). I think the AC was good for some 9-10 hp. When I climb some not very steep but long hills on highway, I turn the AC off instead of downshifting. It makes a difference. It is also worth about 5-10% in fuel economy depending on duty cycle.

 

[inspekt]

I drive my 2011 Sport 5spd with the air on all the time and don't notice these issues. It's a little more sluggish with the air on, but nothing compared to what some of you are reporting. If it was me, I'd be making an appointment to have this checked out while you're still in warranty. If they tell you there's nothing wrong, ask to test drive another car with the same set up and see if it's the same situation. If not, use that as a bit of leverage to get yours checked out deeper and hopefully fixed.

+1. It does the usual diminished power thing, but I haven't noticed anything exaggerated. Are any of you who are having the most extreme problems driving '11s or '12s? Perhaps there is a difference between the years in how the grounds are run, something is wired, etc.

 

[BeetleJuice]

Have a 2012 and boy let me tell ya, when the AC is on I feel like I want to kill myself. I’ll be driving along and then all of a sudden there is this second of power loss and it’s just annoying as hell. Forget about passing people on the hwy with the ac on. Also, I live in Minnesota and there is a race track called Elko I go to every Saturday night. Getting there requires driving on i35 which is in the valley so there are a lot of long up and down hills. Going up the hill with the ac on is brutal, I have to down shift or either turn it off. Now, two more gripes about the “bird killer" I’ve been driving a stick since I was 14. Driving this thing makes me feel like a noob. I just can’t seem to get used to mushy clutch. Then like everybody else on here there is the delay in the DBW throttle, I’m all for technology, but DBW is pathetic. I want a cable operated throttle body. That is the way the 2 should have been made; actually all cars need to come with a cable (mechanical) operated throttle body. You get smooth and instant power delivery. I think this is why I enjoy driving my mk3 GTI so much. Just punch it and go, no lag.
I know that manufacturers have to meet these new cafe standards but a cable operated tb cant weigh that much. If I was to ever manufacture a car it would have a mechanical TB. I would look somewhere else to save weight.

 

[ngd298]

I can feel the A/C kick on a little, but not enough to bother me, and for some odd reason its worse on my 4.3 S10. My biggest complaint about the A/C is that is barely cools the car down on really hot days.

 

[BeetleJuice]

. My biggest complaint about the A/C is that is barely cools the car down on really hot days.

That is weird, mine does a great job cooling the car down when im driving it with the ac on. The only time it doesnt do a good job is when there is no WOT action involed., meaning if i sit and idle at a stop light or traffic then you can tell the ac isnt pumping out enough of the cold stuff.

 

[ngd298]

Mine just doesn't cool very well at all. I took it back to the dealership and they said the air coming from the vent is 19 degrees, and I even got the windows tinted to 40%, but still just doesn't seem very cool at all.