AutoX i know what you mean, even though im running VTA the sound verys like you said at full boost its a really quick noise and at like medium boost it has the flutter...its wierd but i think its like you said with the higher boost its closing alot faster...i say go VTA haha
HKS SSQV BPV/BOV owners please chime in!!
- Thread starter AutoXRacer
- Start date
AutoXRacer
Member
How are you configured for VTA? Do you have tuning for it or are just living with the drivability issues...?
AutoXRacer
Member
OK here are some pictures... Not of the install though... Sorry.
Stock valve is really cheesy. It might serve its purpose...but it cheesy!!!
Final install
I am going to stop by the auto parts store and try to find some tubing/hose for the bypass side...the stock hose works fine after you rotate it, but I'm anal and want a perfect fit. I'll take pics and show you guys the difference.
Stock valve is really cheesy. It might serve its purpose...but it cheesy!!!
Final install
I am going to stop by the auto parts store and try to find some tubing/hose for the bypass side...the stock hose works fine after you rotate it, but I'm anal and want a perfect fit. I'll take pics and show you guys the difference.
AutoXRacer
Member
Whats wrong with the stocker?
Couple questions:
1.) Do the instructions say how to convert the valve configuration from vent to air to by-pass or is it fairly self-explanitory?
2.) Is that a zip tie between the valve flange and valve...?
3.) Did you bend your TMIC shroud plate intentionally to avoid fitment issues on the right hand side or was that a goof? I thought the back (towards the windshield) was an issue during hard shifting, if at all.
1.) Do the instructions say how to convert the valve configuration from vent to air to by-pass or is it fairly self-explanitory?
2.) Is that a zip tie between the valve flange and valve...?
3.) Did you bend your TMIC shroud plate intentionally to avoid fitment issues on the right hand side or was that a goof? I thought the back (towards the windshield) was an issue during hard shifting, if at all.
AutoXRacer
Member
1.) Do the instructions say how to convert the valve configuration from vent to air to by-pass or is it fairly self-explanitory?
Yes, the instructions show you how to convert it to recirculation. Its an easy process of removing 4 allen bolts and replacing the tri ring with the recirculation fitting.
2.) Is that a zip tie between the valve flange and valve...?
Yes, that zip tie is holding down the vacuum line (on the underside) to and from the SSQV.
3.) Did you bend your TMIC shroud plate intentionally to avoid fitment issues on the right hand side or was that a goof? I thought the back (towards the windshield) was an issue during hard shifting, if at all.
I bent it because it was (still is) wearing the rubber seal that sits on top of the shroud. I bent it in the front to reduce the wear of the rubber seal and in the rear to create clearance between the firewall.
The shroud and SSQV has no fitment issues. This was all previous to the SSQV.
You can run VTA and it occasionally burps or farts between shifts, but nothing huge. It isn't right and may cause issues down the road, but thats neither here nor there. I now run VTA and am tuning for it in the stand back using the fuel cut feature.
I knew it wasn't because of the HKS; I'm getting the same intercooler soon and just figured I'd ask off topic while I was at it since I noticed it in a few pics. Thanks for the response! I think I know whats next on my list
AutoXRacer
Member
I knew it wasn't because of the HKS; I'm getting the same intercooler soon and just figured I'd ask off topic while I was at it since I noticed it in a few pics. Thanks for the response! I think I know whats next on my list
Supposedly according to PG (Ken), I got an old shroud and should have gotten a "new design" one... PG said they were going to send me one...
(huh) still waiting...
I figured I'd just modify mine in the meantime...
I knew it wasn't because of the HKS; I'm getting the same intercooler soon and just figured I'd ask off topic while I was at it since I noticed it in a few pics. Thanks for the response! I think I know whats next on my list
If this means you are thinking about picking up the HKS SSQV, shoot me a PM.
.im not tuned for it, but i have had no drivability issues at all drives just like normal.
AutoXRacer
Member
Have I mentioned how much I love this BPV...?
I went racing this weekend and the valve performed flawlessly!!!
Boost was instant in between shifts and the sound was intoxicating...
The car felt amazing!! Power was just a tap away...
Previously, the boost had to build up...now its just there.
I am so happy with my HKS!!
And best of all, I don't have to mess with springs, screws, or any other adjustments.
I went racing this weekend and the valve performed flawlessly!!!
Boost was instant in between shifts and the sound was intoxicating...
The car felt amazing!! Power was just a tap away...
Previously, the boost had to build up...now its just there.
I am so happy with my HKS!!
And best of all, I don't have to mess with springs, screws, or any other adjustments.
A BOV or BPV does not make a turbo spool faster, and it does not add power, it simply releases the air either to the atmosphere or recirculates it back into the system. You're imagining it buddy. There will be zero difference in power. Sorry to burst your bubble, but enjoy it either way. The only difference (if at all) would be if it was returning the air back to the system. In theory it wouldn't take the snail as long to spool, but that's such a small amount that you would not notice it at all.
Too funny.
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AutoXRacer
Member
Might not make the turbo spool faster, but it does help the turbo pressurize the charge side much quicker (if you've had a leaky BPV). My stocker is slow to respond... The HKS is a lot more efficient and responds instantly, thus reducing loss PSI. Basically, the turbo is able to re-pressurize the charge side almost instantly compared to stock. At least these are my findings...
The BPV is not directly responsible for more power...
If you stock BPV was leaking boost, then you are loosing potential power... My stock BPV yielded 15.6 PSI, with the HKS, I now yield 16.6 PSI. My peaks with the stock were 16-17 PSI, now with HKS they are consistently 20 PSI...and thats in 80* weather. I could only get that in the stocker when the temps were in the 30s*...
Shifting with my stock BPV was smooth and progressive boost build-up.
With HKS, the engine feels more responsive, boost seems to instantly build up throwing my head back on the head rest...the stock BPV never did that.
All these changes were felt after I installed the HKS...
So, you tell me if I've gained HP or not...
1 PSI of boost is noticable... 3 PSI of peak boost is also noticable...
The BPV does not create horsepower nor is it a horsepower mod...but if you have a defective/leaky BPV, then this becomes a restorer of lost HP...
Does anyone else see how this is possible? (huh)
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Read what you wrote. "You had a bad BPV". If you replaced it with the OEM part you would have felt the same exact thing you are noticing. As your last paragraph stated.
I am not trying to bash you at all, I am just trying to inform you a bit so you don't repeat the same thing to others and have them think what I said. (You'd sound uninformed)
Yes, the charge side would pressurize faster, but that is only ONLY if it is recirculating the air, not sending it to the atmosphere.
The HKS will last longer than the stock one, it is a much better product, no question.
Sorry again man, I wasn't trying to imply that you're a moron.
As far as feeling more power. You're feeling what it should have been before your stock part started leaking. It's actually the placebo affect that you're feeling now.
Bottome line, your car is running better, enjoy her ;-)
patty AT forge
Member
The problem isn't "a bad BPV" it is the design of the OEM valve that is flawed.
