Help with the rear sway bar bushings bracket

erikmanx

mazdaism
Contributor
:
2017 CX-5 AWD T
Hi everybody! Well, I have been messing around with my rear sway bar bushings for the last couple of weeks, and had the dealership finally put on some of the poly-eurethane bushings for the rear. They worked fine, for about a week, and then started squeeking real bad. So I tried one of the fixes I heard, and put some elec. tape around the bar in between the bushing, and greased the hell out of it, but when I was tightening one of the bottom bolts, the tapped hole stripped (I believe it's the hole, because the other bots don't tighten on that one hole) and now I get a SUPER KLUNK due to the bracket hitting the metal. Now, I'm not a genious at tapping holes, but how would I re-tap the 14mm hole? Would I have to go a size bigger, like a 15mm? Any help would be nice.
 
If you stripped the threads out of it, you are definately going to have to go to the next biggest size.
 
erikmanx said:
Hi everybody! Well, I have been messing around with my rear sway bar bushings for the last couple of weeks, and had the dealership finally put on some of the poly-eurethane bushings for the rear. They worked fine, for about a week, and then started squeeking real bad. So I tried one of the fixes I heard, and put some elec. tape around the bar in between the bushing, and greased the hell out of it, but when I was tightening one of the bottom bolts, the tapped hole stripped (I believe it's the hole, because the other bots don't tighten on that one hole) and now I get a SUPER KLUNK due to the bracket hitting the metal. Now, I'm not a genious at tapping holes, but how would I re-tap the 14mm hole? Would I have to go a size bigger, like a 15mm? Any help would be nice.

This may or may not affect your situation..

There is a nut inside the subframe, that is what the bolt threads into. You can feel it if you stick your hand in there through the hole about 6 inches to the inside of the brackets. For me, the weld (to the subframe) cracked on that nut and it made it nearly impossible to get off. I ended up sticking a wrench inside the subframe and holding that nut while I loosened the bolt to get it removed. Unfortunately, if that is what happened to you as well, you would have to do the same to tighten it down. I don't remember what the torque specs are for it, but it might not get tight enough that way. In that case, I would not be able to suggest anything other then lowering the subframe and getting that nut re-welded onto it.
 
Well, I took it to the dealership where I bought the car, and they fixed it for me for free, but the receptionist didn't tell me how the mechanic fixed it, she just said they got the botls tightened (the people that work at this Mazda dealership are jerks and have f****d me over sooooo many times). I think I am going to call her later and try to get it out of there, I just hope they didn't do a crappy job, like adding some locktite or something. Anyways, if I find out, I'll let you guys know.
 
Well, I have my car in the shop AGAIN, when I took the car in the last time (see last reply) they said they fixed my bushing bracket, but when I was driving the home the other night I heard a HUGE Klunk, and when I got home one of the screws that hold the bracket into place was missing and my sway bar was hanging on the passenger side. I took it to the shop on Thursday, and they are going to FINALLY fix it, won't get it back until Monday or Tuesday. BTW, if anyone on this board is from Salt Lake, don't do business with D. Dahle Mazda, they suck ass, and their mechanics are lazy.
 
roni said:
This may or may not affect your situation..

There is a nut inside the subframe, that is what the bolt threads into. You can feel it if you stick your hand in there through the hole about 6 inches to the inside of the brackets. For me, the weld (to the subframe) cracked on that nut and it made it nearly impossible to get off. I ended up sticking a wrench inside the subframe and holding that nut while I loosened the bolt to get it removed. Unfortunately, if that is what happened to you as well, you would have to do the same to tighten it down. I don't remember what the torque specs are for it, but it might not get tight enough that way. In that case, I would not be able to suggest anything other then lowering the subframe and getting that nut re-welded onto it.

the same thing happen to me. i just got a new nut, and squeeze a small open end wrench in the subframe, and hold it while tightening the bottom. It works but can be a PITA. bad weld if you ask me.
 
roni said:
This may or may not affect your situation..

There is a nut inside the subframe, that is what the bolt threads into. You can feel it if you stick your hand in there through the hole about 6 inches to the inside of the brackets. For me, the weld (to the subframe) cracked on that nut and it made it nearly impossible to get off. I ended up sticking a wrench inside the subframe and holding that nut while I loosened the bolt to get it removed. Unfortunately, if that is what happened to you as well, you would have to do the same to tighten it down. I don't remember what the torque specs are for it, but it might not get tight enough that way. In that case, I would not be able to suggest anything other then lowering the subframe and getting that nut re-welded onto it.

im having this problem. any idea what size wrench you used?
 
MP3wannabe, your car looks sweet. I like the way a silver MP3 looks. How much did it cost you to get it looking like that?
 
mp3wannabe said:
im having this problem. any idea what size wrench you used?
I do not remember, sorry. I am pretty sure it was between 15-17mm, but I might be wrong.
 
dcbeggs said:
MP3wannabe, your car looks sweet. I like the way a silver MP3 looks. How much did it cost you to get it looking like that?


way too much ;) well over 1k
 
Back