Help with issues from Greddy RS install please

since its VTA i seriously was thinking in your video it was from when you rev and then let off, your engine wants to stall and die because it's in vta mote and the engine does a little idle jump to keep itself alive and that lets out that baby whistle sound. I had that when i ran my type-s vta.

Just because I want to know, how does your run as vta because mine with the greddy type-s the car hates it and backfires to death, gives rough idle and wants to stall. Also what did you plug your recirc hose with???

As far as hooking up a boost guage, you can T into the part that goes to the top of the bov, just cut that and then T into it and the long single end of the the T will go back into the car for your boost guage. Run it through the hole in there firewall where the hood latche cable goes through

Thanks man ill have to keep that in mind. I was cheap and decided not to buy one of those block off fittings, so i went to Home depot, went to there plumbing department, and bought one of those screw in block offs for Steel piping. cost me all of a dollar and 27 cents, or sum thin like that.

Cool ill think about that when im hookign mine up. but as for the BOV vacume line, should i leave it at the stock location or move it closer to the waste gate and T off of the waste gate vacume line?
 
Thanks man ill have to keep that in mind. I was cheap and decided not to buy one of those block off fittings, so i went to Home depot, went to there plumbing department, and bought one of those screw in block offs for Steel piping. cost me all of a dollar and 27 cents, or sum thin like that.

Cool ill think about that when im hookign mine up. but as for the BOV vacume line, should i leave it at the stock location or move it closer to the waste gate and T off of the waste gate vacume line?


as far as where to T it i'm not sure what is the best. But mine it right at the bov, like lestat13's is. And from the readings it's dead on with what it should be so I assumed it was the right spot to tap into.

But on your greddy being vta do you get stuttering, rough idling that bounces when in stopped position, and backfiring? I have a boost guage and when vta you can watch the readings of vac/boost bounce around and the a/f guage also teeters around when it was vta, car performed terribly so i only did it for a car drive to work once and that was all she wrote
 
She hunts for an idle when i come to a stop, but only one time then she holds steady around 700 or so(well, a little over the notch before the 1k mark, if that's 700) I am getting a little bit of a miss at idle though, kinda weird i didn't think a BOV would do that, but not stuttering, and the miss at idle could be due to something else, or just be the nature of the car.

as far as where to T it i'm not sure what is the best. But mine it right at the bov, like lestat13's is. And from the readings it's dead on with what it should be so I assumed it was the right spot to tap into.

But were should i hook the BOV line to? where the stock location is? or some were closer to the waste gate?
 
She hunts for an idle when i come to a stop, but only one time then she holds steady around 700 or so(well, a little over the notch before the 1k mark, if that's 700) I am getting a little bit of a miss at idle though, kinda weird i didn't think a BOV would do that, but not stuttering, and the miss at idle could be due to something else, or just be the nature of the car.

It is from running the BOV vented to atmosphere. It's just how the computer calculates the airflow at idle...it assumes that air being bypassed through the BOV is re-entering the intake system, when you're actually dumping it off. Same reason why you get kind of a jerk when you shift quickly while running VTA. Computer is dumping in gas thinking that the engine is getting more air than you're actually giving it.
 
But were should i hook the BOV line to? where the stock location is? or some were closer to the waste gate?

where the stock tube is that goes to the top of the bov onto that little skinny part that sticks out of the top/side area of the bov is best to tap into. I dont see a need to T in any closes to the wastegate itself as mine reads perfectly fine from that point. if you look at lestat's pisture thats the line to tap into and the black tube thats sticking down from the T is what will go to your guage for reading
 
Update: Idle sucks when cold, hunts and almost stalls like crazy. The after whistle happens when the idle drops to around 1200 and lasts till about 900. I think the springs might not be strong enough or something..... maybe its not closing it the way it should, and the RPM drops fast now so quick shift is a must to keep it from jerking when letting the clutch back out lol.
 
Update: Idle sucks when cold, hunts and almost stalls like crazy. The after whistle happens when the idle drops to around 1200 and lasts till about 900. I think the springs might not be strong enough or something..... maybe its not closing it the way it should, and the RPM drops fast now so quick shift is a must to keep it from jerking when letting the clutch back out lol.

thats what happens when you run it vta. Unfortunately it's the type-rs so you'd have to get the recirc fitting to recirculate it, the type-s has it built in. If you recirculate it the sound will go down but your car will run normally and like it should without any crazy idle or stalling or backfiring issues.

fitting can be bought from the SU website and looks like this:
ATP-FLA-014_450.jpg


it screws in place of the blue horn on the side and you can put your recirc hose over it. its $19 shipped from the su website
 
I bought one, fricken thing is i bought the 29mm which is the wrong one,the threading diameter is wayy to big,and the fitting has a different thread. the thread for the fitting that comes with the BOV is coarse, while that looks like a fine thread.. ive been trying to research that and see why its diffident and im starting to think its a ripoff Greddy BOV
 
thats what happens when you run it vta. Unfortunately it's the type-rs so you'd have to get the recirc fitting to recirculate it, the type-s has it built in.

You are probably my best bud on through this website and I don't know how you did it, but my stock recirc hose would just not stretch around my type-s. I needed to get the fitting. Maybe since at the time I had 5k miles on the car the hose wasn't broken in enough to stretch well?????

Anyway, I would say assume you are going to need the fitting
 
I bought one, fricken thing is i bought the 29mm which is the wrong one,the threading diameter is wayy to big,and the fitting has a different thread. the thread for the fitting that comes with the BOV is coarse, while that looks like a fine thread.. ive been trying to research that and see why its diffident and im starting to think its a ripoff Greddy BOV

dude that totally sucks! if that one doesnt fit i don't know what the one you got must fit... maybe the type-s?

You are probably my best bud on through this website and I don't know how you did it, but my stock recirc hose would just not stretch around my type-s. I needed to get the fitting. Maybe since at the time I had 5k miles on the car the hose wasn't broken in enough to stretch well?????

Anyway, I would say assume you are going to need the fitting


i had about 6k on the car when i got my type-s, i just wiggled mine on there it stretched over fine and slid right on. I took off that glued on stock bov black crimped on thing... know what I mean? that thing made it too tight to fit over so i simply took that off and the hose hangs on there perfectly fine, doesn't wiggle loose at all. you have a surplus of bov's, i wonder how your type-s is doing and if you tried it on again? No lie mine is loud as heck, i really should make a video of a driveby with that on there.
 
you have a surplus of bov's, i wonder how your type-s is doing and if you tried it on again?

Actually sucessfully sold it and picked up a hks ssq, but came out about even. Actually just now got home and it's waiting for me in this box here. Still got the turbo xs hybrid for sale. Since the hks is closed at idle and pull type, I have heard good things about running it vta. If I can't run it vta I will probably resell it and keep running the rs in recirc.

I know, I'm a mess ;)
 
Actually sucessfully sold it and picked up a hks ssq, but came out about even. Actually just now got home and it's waiting for me in this box here. Still got the turbo xs hybrid for sale. Since the hks is closed at idle and pull type, I have heard good things about running it vta. If I can't run it vta I will probably resell it and keep running the rs in recirc.

I know, I'm a mess ;)

i was about to suggest the hks, actually i think i did a few weeks ago. i heard one in poerson recirculated and it was pretty nice. How much did that type-s go for??? I know yours was mint
 
I priced it low to get it gone faster, but it just about covered the cost of my getting the ssq (gonna try vta though) supposed to be putting it in today if my friend comes over. the only thing I hate more than working in the cold is working in the cold alone. let's hope he shows :)
 
took the dmn RS off and went back to stock, F VTA, what a pain in the A, need to get the recirc fitting before it goes back on.
 
Seems like a good idea to try, but has anyone else tried for a MS3? my problem is that it doesn't want to close under very low boost, or even no boost, even with both springs in. if i stiffen it gets better, but then it flutters like hell when you boost, and the after whistle doesn't go away just is quieter.
 
Seems like a good idea to try, but has anyone else tried for a MS3? my problem is that it doesn't want to close under very low boost, or even no boost, even with both springs in. if i stiffen it gets better, but then it flutters like hell when you boost, and the after whistle doesn't go away just is quieter.

i was going to post that evo link as well. Thats waht I did on my ebay knockoff greddy type-s valve, and then also on my real greddy type-s. lestat13 above also did it to his, mmbost did it to his, and my local member here phillyb we did it to his type-s as well and none of us have had any issues as far as i know of.

I did the single spring mod and mine is turned about 6 full 360-degree turns from first contact and that got the after swhistle to go away, no flutter, no backfiring of stalling issues or any leaks and thats actually the point where it was the loudest i got the bov to be. Even recurculated its ridiculous how loud it is.

I still havent made any videos of the real greddy type-s whistle i get but when i got the ebay knockoff version and after the single spring mod here is my thread about that from a few months back for reference if you want to check it out:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123711199
 
awsome, this will be my saturday project then, and if this dosent work then the recirc fitting will be ordered on monday morning.
 
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