Help with issues from Greddy RS install please
- Thread starter RC08MS3
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skeeter149
Banned
hmm, i havethe whoosh in recirc. i hate to say it but mine sounded like a sequential till i loosened it so "maybe" yours is too tight and needs loosening? i dont wanna tell you what to do but if your will to try it...
This will help me more than anything. Go out to your BOV and count how many threads on the bolt are showing above the nut, that will make it alot easier for me to understand. Cause I am not good at tuning this s***. Mine is getting flutter in recirc, it don't even sound like its blowing off. When it was vented, it made the nice woosh.
skeeter149
Banned
maybe taking the second spring out is causing the surge with it loose. like i said i loosened it all the way at idle with the valve backwards, then tightened till the valve seated and didnt leak and i hold 18 psi boost no problem. like i said i think it uses the pressure from the vac line and the cold pipe to hold it closed under boost, and the bolt is only to keep it closed at idle. but again i dont know with your setup this worked for me but maybe i got lucky. i just went out and i "wwhhoosshh" every gear at every boost level with no studder and i hold 18 psi fine through the rpms. hope we can get this settled for you but i am just telling you what worked for me.
skeeter149
Banned
ok just talked to greddy, he said loosen it all the way then depending on the car it shouldnt need more then one full turn to get it right. he said loosen it all the way tighten it a quarter, drive and listen and then if need tighten another quarter and drive till one solid whoosh. he said as for the whistles after blow off, that is the air getting out then the valve being too tight for the remaining air to get it so the valve isnt staying open so the air escaping only opens the valve a little causing the whistle. he said loosen for that.
when recirculated the 1 spring is a slight chirp at blow off, it gets muffled when its recirculated.
When vented it sounds glorious. But the valve stays open a tad bit even at idle. So i know I need to tighten it more OR put the second spring back in and tighten it til it is closed at idle. When recirculated that isn't an issue to suck in some air through it as when recirculated it's sucking in filtered air through the recirc tube that connects to the inlet after the maf and filter.
If its open at idle, that means its open even more at peak vac (deceleration) so thats even worse if its VTA since its sucking in unfiltered/unmetered air into the motor.
I will try to tighten the screw as far as I can at idle and see if it stays closed (it is recommended to tighten 1/2 turb past the closing point at idle to compensate for the extra vac received at peak vac/deceleration to make sure its closed when needed and not sucking in the unflitered air. If I cannot get it to shut all the way, I will put the second spring back in and that should give it more spring tension and then I'll start tightening from that point.
skeeter149
Banned
good deal, definately let us know its just good knowledge to have laying around. hope it works out either way man and take care.
I just went outside and tried this on mine:
I have the type-s with the single spring mod (smaller spring removed). Mine stays open a bit at idle with 6 full turns. I decided to tighten it to see if it would stay closed at idle. I turned it as far as it could go (5 more turns for a total of 11 full turns) before there was no more screw sticking out of the top nut. It was pushing the valve closer to being closed at idle (almost all the way but still open a bit)
I did some revs and the thing doesnt even want to blow off, you can definately tell the sound of surging at that point.
So as it appears, with only 1 spring and tightened all the way there is not enough spring power to keep it closed at idle. I will try to put the second spring back in and then start my turning until it is closed at idle and then try driving it to see if it blows off well or jerks. It it's too tight it surges and if too loose it is open at idle and at vac and sucking in air. We'll see how it goes tomorrow when I put the second spring back in
I have the type-s with the single spring mod (smaller spring removed). Mine stays open a bit at idle with 6 full turns. I decided to tighten it to see if it would stay closed at idle. I turned it as far as it could go (5 more turns for a total of 11 full turns) before there was no more screw sticking out of the top nut. It was pushing the valve closer to being closed at idle (almost all the way but still open a bit)
I did some revs and the thing doesnt even want to blow off, you can definately tell the sound of surging at that point.
So as it appears, with only 1 spring and tightened all the way there is not enough spring power to keep it closed at idle. I will try to put the second spring back in and then start my turning until it is closed at idle and then try driving it to see if it blows off well or jerks. It it's too tight it surges and if too loose it is open at idle and at vac and sucking in air. We'll see how it goes tomorrow when I put the second spring back in
skeeter149
Banned
good luck bro i just spent five hours waxing my car, then my new recirc hose came so tomorrow i will put that in lol. but again hope you get it settled.
great information man, thanks. Im gonna toy with the car today!
When I am looking for the woosh, am I looking for a woosh on just normal driving or am I looking for a woosh on WOT shifts only? And I wonder why it was doing the woosh in vented to atmosphere, but yet on recirc, its not doing it. Its more of a flutter and not a distinct woosh. Weird.
skeeter149
Banned
i get woosh all the time even at like 5 psi. mine is in recirc now and i just got my new silicone recirc hose. wll with greddy said it should be one clean woosh so i hope we all get it settled.
. wll with greddy said it should be one clean woosh so i hope we all get it settled.I did this today:
-checked the actual rotation of my top screw. I had it at 6 3/4 full turns with the single spring in. That was the best performance I could get out of the single spring modded type-s, with best performance and sound. BUT it was staying open at idle (not too much) which was bad.
I took my bov off and opened it up and put the small spring back in, so now it's got both springs inside. I put it on and set the car idling. The valve stays open barely at all only a slight bit of opening on the plunger at idle. I turned the top screw and kept turning and turning and turning until i Got to even 7 full turns. It wouldnt go down any more than it was at... not sure why that was the case.
So I backed it out and adjusted it to 5 turns. It seemed like only minor flutter but loud whoosh/whistle. I decided to back it out to 4 full turns. It sounded better and got rid of almost all flutter and still got the loud whoosh. I backed it out another 1/2 turn to 3 1/2 total turns on the top screw from first contact and its perfect now. I get great response. No surge or bad flutter. It's almost a slight bit of sequential sound, but crazy loud whistle and whoosh. The car idles much much nicer now and the revs dont hunt or bump at all, its smooth even in VTA and feels the same as when the valve is in recirculation.
***overall: I now feel that having both springs in works best for me and with 3 1/2 full turns from first contact. Drives just as well in VAT as it does in recirc. Now that the valve is more closed/shut at idle I think this is the better option for me. I will be leaving work soon and will be driving home on the freeway, so I will give it lots of wot shifts and see how it blows off and responds to the new spring and see if its completely perfect. So I'll post when I get home if the adjustment is right or if changes need to be made, but from how it looks now this is the best performance I have gotten yet.
-checked the actual rotation of my top screw. I had it at 6 3/4 full turns with the single spring in. That was the best performance I could get out of the single spring modded type-s, with best performance and sound. BUT it was staying open at idle (not too much) which was bad.
I took my bov off and opened it up and put the small spring back in, so now it's got both springs inside. I put it on and set the car idling. The valve stays open barely at all only a slight bit of opening on the plunger at idle. I turned the top screw and kept turning and turning and turning until i Got to even 7 full turns. It wouldnt go down any more than it was at... not sure why that was the case.
So I backed it out and adjusted it to 5 turns. It seemed like only minor flutter but loud whoosh/whistle. I decided to back it out to 4 full turns. It sounded better and got rid of almost all flutter and still got the loud whoosh. I backed it out another 1/2 turn to 3 1/2 total turns on the top screw from first contact and its perfect now. I get great response. No surge or bad flutter. It's almost a slight bit of sequential sound, but crazy loud whistle and whoosh. The car idles much much nicer now and the revs dont hunt or bump at all, its smooth even in VTA and feels the same as when the valve is in recirculation.
***overall: I now feel that having both springs in works best for me and with 3 1/2 full turns from first contact. Drives just as well in VAT as it does in recirc. Now that the valve is more closed/shut at idle I think this is the better option for me. I will be leaving work soon and will be driving home on the freeway, so I will give it lots of wot shifts and see how it blows off and responds to the new spring and see if its completely perfect. So I'll post when I get home if the adjustment is right or if changes need to be made, but from how it looks now this is the best performance I have gotten yet.
skeeter149
Banned
well that is definately good news. hope its good to go and glad your enjoying it again.
It sounded all good getting onto the freeway and going. but after getting all the way to 6th gear and driving and doing random revs in 6th to test the sound it started to sound like it was choking up and muffled. I started to hear some surge and half-ass blow off whistles like it was struggling to open.
I didnt bother to loosen it down anymore, when I got home I just took it off and pulled the small spring out. And put it back to 6 1/2 full turns in single spring mode. It worked fine that way when recirculated but terrible when VTA. But I'll probably just leave it back at recirc since the mpg is better and the car runs perfectly fine in recirc with the single spring inside.
With both springs in it ran better in VTA, but wouldnt blow off for s***, too much spring tension it seemed after it got used to it. So to ease the tension the single spring mod gives more play and adjustment.
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well I went out and tried the adjustment thing today, backed the screw all the way out, and then screwed it back on...it took a few turns to get it to get the screw back in the plunger. I did the one full turn and revved it up and it had the flutter to it. So i turned it a few times, and then tried again, and this time it had the woosh with that whistle following the woosh. Is this supposed to be how it is? After it did that, I turned it a little bit more and then tightened the screw back down. I only drove about a mile to my buddy's house, but it seemed to woosh. Where my damn exhaust is so loud now, its difficult to hear the BOV at times. Plus its colder than frosty's dick outside, so I couldn't roll the windows down to listen. But for the greddy rs, in recirc, are we supposed to be having the whistle, or no?
I hate trying to tune to get this thing right because I can never tell if I have it tuned right or not. I need to just get one that you bolt on, recirc it and just leave it be with no tuning. Anyone want to trade their non-adjustable blow off valve (forge, HKS, etc) for my greddy rs with VTA and recirc fittings and ATP greddy adapter so it bolts up to ms3?
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skeeter149
Banned
wholemilk the nut is just there to stop theadjutment screw(allen key screw). so to adjust you back the nut up the bolt a little, turn the screw tight or loose, then tighten nut back down. never turn the adjustment screw with the nut tight you will have strippage.
