Help, New Components for the front
- Thread starter jrodhotrod
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jrodhotrod
Contributor
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
This evening I stopped and listened to some more stuff on the way home, namely top of the line MB Quart and Eclipse (not in the same league as anything else I have heard).
I am totally sold on the Focals. Now I have to find a way to come up with some funds.
Anyone want to buy stock MSP Struts, Springs, or an MSP Turbo???
I am totally sold on the Focals. Now I have to find a way to come up with some funds.
Anyone want to buy stock MSP Struts, Springs, or an MSP Turbo???
My DLS Iridium 6.3s are sitting in my den...it will be at least a month before I get to listen to them for the first time. Since the closest dealer was 3 states away I bought them without ever hearing them. Checkout www.dlsamerica.com. There are plenty of dealers in California but I'm not sure how close they are to you.
jrodhotrod
Contributor
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Okay, I have been doing more reading and I may try my best to make the drive and listen to some DLS speakers this weekend. From everything I have read I might be doing myself a disservice by not listening. Still haven't heard something I like more then the Focals for the price, but the DLS may have a chance.
Any recs for where to purchase DLS speakers?
Any recs for where to purchase DLS speakers?
jrodhotrod
Contributor
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
why must you tempt me?!?!?!
jrodhotrod
Contributor
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Here is another random question about the DLS...
Iridiums have a recommended 100w RMS and 160w max power rating.
Is bridging the JL 300/4 to run 150w RMS going to be too much for those or if I go the DLS route leave it as a 4 channel and run only 75w RMS to the front doors?
Iridiums have a recommended 100w RMS and 160w max power rating.
Is bridging the JL 300/4 to run 150w RMS going to be too much for those or if I go the DLS route leave it as a 4 channel and run only 75w RMS to the front doors?
jrodhotrod
Contributor
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Okay,
I just spent 20 minutes on the phone with a distributor that is an hour away and while he doesn't stock them or have them on the board I should be able to listen to a an install that doesn't include an EQ that will be very similar to my own.
After talking to him the DLS Iridium 6.2 sounds very attractive and the price point is even better than the steal on Focal K2Ps. So if I like the way they sound that may be the way to go.
I just spent 20 minutes on the phone with a distributor that is an hour away and while he doesn't stock them or have them on the board I should be able to listen to a an install that doesn't include an EQ that will be very similar to my own.
After talking to him the DLS Iridium 6.2 sounds very attractive and the price point is even better than the steal on Focal K2Ps. So if I like the way they sound that may be the way to go.
Hearing them in the car is the best way to judge their sound. Just remember to bring a CD with a wide range of music on it that you are familiar with. Perhaps on the way there, stop at the place you heard the K2Ps so you have a recent reference in your head before you go and listen to the Iridiums.
best advice right there. I've been going all over town today getting prices on installs, checking out different amps, etc. to complete my system.
I've given up the idea of a false floor for my setup. that JLW6v2 is just too deep to do what I want without rasing the floor more than I want. but I think I'm going to go with a vented box (built by the best builders in the area) ported properly and vented through the 6x9 holes, with a 3.5" speaker to the side (in the 6x9 hole also) for the surround channels.
I think I've also decided to go with a JL 500/5 for the fronts, rear and sub (after hearing every person I talked to locally say that the sub channel is essentially a 250/1 and puts out WAY more than 250W. and this came from people who dont sell them, and actually compete against the people that do. either way. even 250W in a vented box would be way f-ing loud.
can anyone recomend a place to buy a 500/5 for a good price. the only local dealer is a total ripoff joint... they want $900 for it. anyone have a hookup?
I'd also probably add the JL 200W e1200 to power the center channel later on, when ever I figure out how to get my center channel the way I want.
I've given up the idea of a false floor for my setup. that JLW6v2 is just too deep to do what I want without rasing the floor more than I want. but I think I'm going to go with a vented box (built by the best builders in the area) ported properly and vented through the 6x9 holes, with a 3.5" speaker to the side (in the 6x9 hole also) for the surround channels.
I think I've also decided to go with a JL 500/5 for the fronts, rear and sub (after hearing every person I talked to locally say that the sub channel is essentially a 250/1 and puts out WAY more than 250W. and this came from people who dont sell them, and actually compete against the people that do. either way. even 250W in a vented box would be way f-ing loud.
can anyone recomend a place to buy a 500/5 for a good price. the only local dealer is a total ripoff joint... they want $900 for it. anyone have a hookup?
I'd also probably add the JL 200W e1200 to power the center channel later on, when ever I figure out how to get my center channel the way I want.
jrodhotrod
Contributor
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- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
Chuyler:
I fully intend to listen to my music, the same variety of styles of music and songs that I have listened to all other speakers with. Good call on going to listen to the K2Ps again. I'll see if I can't squeeze that in this weeeknd the same day as the DLS (crossing fingers that the vendors friend comes through and I get a chance to listen)
Ryan:
Nice choice in amps.
There are plenty of places selling JL online but then you run into the authorized dealer problem. Look forward to seeing the finished product.
I fully intend to listen to my music, the same variety of styles of music and songs that I have listened to all other speakers with. Good call on going to listen to the K2Ps again. I'll see if I can't squeeze that in this weeeknd the same day as the DLS (crossing fingers that the vendors friend comes through and I get a chance to listen)
Ryan:
Nice choice in amps.
There are plenty of places selling JL online but then you run into the authorized dealer problem. Look forward to seeing the finished product.
SP33D said:
I originally planned on it... but after talking to no less than 5 shops today only one suggested sealed, the rest suggested ported. Even afer me telling them my listening preferences, SQ goals, my lack of caring about large amounts of SPL.
not to mention that with the box I am going with it will be ported through the rear deck, prefenting blowing out the rear speakers due to large excursion, and trunk rattling. the sub will be sealed off from the trunk compartment completely actually. the shop I am going to go with is the best enclosure builder in a town full of nice box builders. I've seen a lot of their projects and all enclude exotic port designs, and many utilize more than excelent fiberglass work. I just hope its as tight as I want it being ported. I can deal with slightly less tightness if it will net me low frequecy extension. I just want a flat bass "curve"
Are you sure you got the right description of ported vs. sealed?
Sealed: flat frequency response, the more power, the lower it will go.
Ported: peaks at tuned frequency and drops off below it. You don't get a flat bass curve or low frequency extension unless the box is huge and tuned to a very low frequency.
Most ported boxes are tuned around 35-40Hz meaning they won't play much below 30-35Hz. If you want a solid 20Hz response, you need a sealed box with tons of power or an IB setup with plenty of cone area and a decent eq.
As far as being "tight". A ported enclosure has less restriction so it might sound tighter at low volumes but will begin to break up at high volumes. A sealed enclosure will be just the opposite, not having much kick until the volume increases and you start pumping power into them.
Sealed: flat frequency response, the more power, the lower it will go.
Ported: peaks at tuned frequency and drops off below it. You don't get a flat bass curve or low frequency extension unless the box is huge and tuned to a very low frequency.
Most ported boxes are tuned around 35-40Hz meaning they won't play much below 30-35Hz. If you want a solid 20Hz response, you need a sealed box with tons of power or an IB setup with plenty of cone area and a decent eq.
As far as being "tight". A ported enclosure has less restriction so it might sound tighter at low volumes but will begin to break up at high volumes. A sealed enclosure will be just the opposite, not having much kick until the volume increases and you start pumping power into them.
