Help, New Components for the front

[RyanJayG]

I know what the difference is. and the box will be tuned low to make up for the SPL curve dropping off down there. I was shocked that they suggested ported as well. but they've done tons of W6 installs and they claimed it just worked better this way. I even brought up the point about it, and they said its because most people dont know how to build a proper ported enclosure. I was shocked also.

but I did truely like that they plan to have the sub totally isolated from the rest of the trunk. it should reduce most of the "trunk rattleing" without tons of dynamat covering the entire thing. (which looks ugly as hell too)

I just guess it will sound similar to the way the W6 sounds in a JL H.O. box. which is still damn nice.

 

[Poseur]

plot it out on winisd or something, If you build a box right and tuned low, you'll get extended low end extension and no "bump" and as a matte rof fact will have a MUCH flatter "plateau" of responce than a sealed setup. however, it WILL require a fair space premium. expect atleast twice the box size of a sealed setup. There ARE tricks, however. Some have recently had luck believe it or not with dryer vent porting coiled around a spare tire. I called horrible on it 'til I heard it. I guess I shouldn't have doubted at all, and were it any other source than Adire's Steven K, I'd have totalyl dismissed it.

 

[chuyler1]

Two things happen that result in crappy ported boxes:

1) Someone buys a sealed box...wants it to be louder so they put a port in. Who knows the length but who cares.
2) Someone buys a prefab loaded enclosure that is tuned to the loaded sub...which usually sucks. Then they replace them with better subs because they blew the original subs by not sending them the correct power.

Two ways to make a nice ported box:
1) Use the manufacturer's suggested box size and dimensions.
2) Use a program such as winisd to design a box based on the theile small parameters of the subwoofer.

 

[RyanJayG]

I agree... and this box will be quite large, and built correctly. These guys have done W6 installs before. the box will span the entire width of the trunk, as to seal it off from the main trunk area. tuned and ported properly through the rear deck. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

it will be powered by a JL 500/5 amp, which the sub channel is essentially a 250/1 class D amp. its rated for 250, but everyone, to a man said it puts out way more. and we are only talking about a single W6 here anyways.

I think Ill be happy with it, and hey later on I might turn the 500/5 into an active front sound stage amp and run the rears and center channel off of a 300/4.

we'll see how things turn out.

 

[jrodhotrod]

Continue discussion of sub boxes.. interesting stuff.

A little update on my end of things. Turns out I won't be able to hear the DLS speakers until next weekend. The guy with them installed wasn't available this weekend. I did hear another set of Focal K2Ps this time inside a vehicle on an installation that will be similar to my own and I still loved the way they sounded. The tweets were not too harsh at all inside the vehicle.

 

[RyanJayG]

they might of attenuated them down, you can drop them from -0 to -7db's inside the crossover... the crossover that comes with the focal's is the best I've ever seen

 

[jrodhotrod]

Okay, so I found a pair of NEW Focals K2Ps with receipt for $500.

Wait until next week to listen to the Iridiums or buy the Focals now?

I still haven't heard something that I liked more than the K2Ps, but will I hate myself later for not waiting to hear the DLS?

 

[RyanJayG]

unless there is a time limit on the focal price, or the guy seriously drags his feet on setting up the Iridiums for you to hear, then go hear the DLS, then choose what you like the best. If there is a time limit then buy the Focal's NOW, because that $500 is INCREDIBLE for the K2P's

 

[jrodhotrod]

Okay, for those that care...

I picked up the K2Ps for $500, complete with receipt from an authorized dealer. They were never installed and are brand new.

I am still going to listen to the DLS next weekend and if I find that I love the sound of them that much more then the K2Ps I'll part ways with the K2Ps. But the price was too good to pass up on what is essentially a brand new set.

Now...

I have to decide wiring.

Right now I am leaning towards:

K2P in front doors powered by a bridged JL 300/4 - 150W RMS to front door
Rear Door leave my ARC Audio 6022 Coaxials and run them off of Kenwood Excelon Deck power 22w RMS.

Any other suggestions, something different that should go in the rear doors, don't bridge the 300/4?

 

[chuyler1]

That should be fine. Once you get the components hooked up you'll prolly just turn the rear speakers off.