Help I'm lost on what to do!

[Jorgyspeed6]

Short story..
I bought my MS6 in Feb 09..it had a fujita cai and nothing else.. It threw a cel once but it was cuz I hit a puddle in a rain storm. I replaced the bad filter and a month later installed a cobb tip...now comes my dilemma... I got transferred to germany in june 09 and no problems until a trip to poland in december. the car drove fine all the way there in single digit temps..but on the way back I started hitting boost or fuel cut..I tried to clean my MAF and still was happening. I bought a new MAF and a cobb sri...still doing it..a dealer pulled a code p0234 (overboost conditions).. my mechanic friend researched it and said to check the vacuum lines (all fine) and the wastegate control solenoid valve (bought new one)...its still happening!! and It isnt the cold because we hit the high 50's one day and still happens!!
OK so it was a long story sorry I got longwinded...
thanks in advance for any help/advice

 

[Blendercloud]

Do you have the stock airbox and turbo inlet pipe to put back on?

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

Do you have the stock airbox and turbo inlet pipe to put back on?

Nope..the car had the fujita when I bought it

 

[Blendercloud]

I'm no Mazda tech, and I've never heard of this before, but I wonder if there is a solenoid controlling wastegate actuation that is malfunctioning. VRMS6 might be able to tell you more.

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

I'm no Mazda tech, and I've never heard of this before, but I wonder if there is a solenoid controlling wastegate actuation that is malfunctioning. VRMS6 might be able to tell you more.

yep that is one of the possibilites that I tested...I bought a new wastegate control solenoid valve and put it on yesterday and still the same issue... I have been tossing the idea of a cobb ap around but worried it wont fix the problem (thats a $600 risk i am hesitant to try)

 

[8.5MS3]

check the small vacuum line that goes on the barb to the TIP. chances are that it is torn or kinked, causing the overboost

 

[Blendercloud]

yep that is one of the possibilites that I tested...I bought a new wastegate control solenoid valve and put it on yesterday and still the same issue... I have been tossing the idea of a cobb ap around but worried it wont fix the problem (thats a $600 risk i am hesitant to try)

Before you did that, I would recommend a DashHawk instead. I don't have a troubleshooting/shop manual for the car, though I need one.

Is this problem only when you are at wide open throttle? Have you tried simply unplugging the battery and resetting the ECU? It's possible with drastic climate, humidity, and elevation changes like this that the fuel trims you had aren't suitable for the current condition.

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

check the small vacuum line that goes on the barb to the TIP. chances are that it is torn or kinked, causing the overboost

yep checked that hose when i replaced the solenoid valve that it is connected to.. the lines are not dry or cracked and look in great shape

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

Before you did that, I would recommend a DashHawk instead. I don't have a troubleshooting/shop manual for the car, though I need one.

Is this problem only when you are at wide open throttle? Have you tried simply unplugging the battery and resetting the ECU? It's possible with drastic climate, humidity, and elevation changes like this that the fuel trims you had aren't suitable for the current condition.

the problem comes up in 4-6th gear at about 3500 rpm and i drove it here for 6 months with no issue

 

[FORZDA 1]

the problem comes up in 4-6th gear at about 3500 rpm and i drove it here for 6 months with no issue

Ok, I've read about your problem in two forums now, so I may as well throw my armchair troubleshooting fix in. If what you're saying is true, that there are no other problems as people have suggested, then your wastegate rod or vacuum diaphram has failed and the wastegate isn't opening.

It may have some road debri or other foreign(no pun intended) object(s) lodged around it as well. The heat shielding may be bent down on it. Eyeball inspect it closely. If nothing obvious, then you can inpsect it for operation with a "Mighty-Vac" or other vacuum pump device. Just pull the big hose off the wastegate actuator and connect your vacuum source/pump. Pinch off or plug the small hose at the wastegate actuator and apply vacuum while watching the wastegate rod. My guess is you can't even pull a vacuum on the actuator because it is ruptured, but it may have a smaller leak. Anyway, the actuator rod should move and stay in that position as long as you keep the vacuum applied.

Good Luck!

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

Ok, I've read about your problem in two forums now, so I may as well throw my armchair troubleshooting fix in. If what you're saying is true, that there are no other problems as people have suggested, then your wastegate rod or vacuum diaphram has failed and the wastegate isn't opening.

It may have some road debri or other foreign(no pun intended) object(s) lodged around it as well. The heat shielding may be bent down on it. Eyeball inspect it closely. If nothing obvious, then you can inpsect it for operation with a "Mighty-Vac" or other vacuum pump device. Just pull the big hose off the wastegate actuator and connect your vacuum source/pump. Pinch off or plug the small hose at the wastegate actuator and apply vacuum while watching the wastegate rod. My guess is you can't even pull a vacuum on the actuator because it is ruptured, but it may have a smaller leak. Anyway, the actuator rod should move and stay in that position as long as you keep the vacuum applied.

Good Luck!

Thanks Forzda I replied to u on the other forum

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

Bump!! anyone ever replaced the oem wastegate? or know where I can find a "how-to"? been searching the web and nothing comes up

 

[FORZDA 1]

Bump!! anyone ever replaced the oem wastegate? or know where I can find a "how-to"? been searching the web and nothing comes up

I don't think there are any how-tos available, but it isn't too difficult other than access. The wategate is actually part of the turbo charger exhaust housing. The part you likely want to replace is the wastegate actuator which is the silver doodad that the boost hose from the turbo compressor connects too. It has 2 bolts and the actuator rod. If you pull the battery and TIP, you can see it pretty well and figure out what you need to do. It will be real hard to get to the actuator rod, but it can be done.

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

I don't think there are any how-tos available, but it isn't too difficult other than access. The wategate is actually part of the turbo charger exhaust housing. The part you likely want to replace is the wastegate actuator which is the silver doodad that the boost hose from the turbo compressor connects too. It has 2 bolts and the actuator rod. If you pull the battery and TIP, you can see it pretty well and figure out what you need to do. It will be real hard to get to the actuator rod, but it can be done.

thanks forzda, (I keep forgetting to say actuator) Mine actually isn't silver anymore...it's kinda rusty. the main 2 bolts like you said are pretty accessable. my concern is the actuator rod. looking at it, I should only have to remove the heat shield from the top of the turbo...I hope...
now if I cant acquire a stock wastegate, what would happen to the bottom vacuum line since the aftermarket ones have only 1.

Thanks again for all your help....this is my first car with a turbo and I am learning as I go. I refuse to pay out the arse for a mechanic if I am able to do it and learn something new in the process

 

[FORZDA 1]

thanks forzda, (I keep forgetting to say actuator) Mine actually isn't silver anymore...it's kinda rusty. the main 2 bolts like you said are pretty accessable. my concern is the actuator rod. looking at it, I should only have to remove the heat shield from the top of the turbo...I hope...
now if I cant acquire a stock wastegate, what would happen to the bottom vacuum line since the aftermarket ones have only 1.

Thanks again for all your help....this is my first car with a turbo and I am learning as I go. I refuse to pay out the arse for a mechanic if I am able to do it and learn something new in the process

Well if yours (WGA) is bad and you can't get OEM replacement, you will need an EBCS to operate the single hose WG actuator. You can set it up in bleed mode (OEM style) or you can set it up for 3-port if you get a 3-port EBCS. I like the Perrin.

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

Well if yours (WGA) is bad and you can't get OEM replacement, you will need an EBCS to operate the single hose WG actuator. You can set it up in bleed mode (OEM style) or you can set it up for 3-port if you get a 3-port EBCS. I like the Perrin.

Thanks again, you have been hella helpful... I am going to the shop tomorrow (hopefully) and see if they have a vacuum pump so I can test my WGA and possibly the other vacuum lines to see if there is maybe a tiny hole or crack that i cant see.... I will post an update so if it works and anyone else has a similar problem it will help them too...wish me luck

 

[cangelo10]

Is your replacement MAF a Mazda OEM part purchased from a Mazda dealership??

I had the same issue with my MS6 and went through a lot of the same trouble shooting with the Turbo, Wastgate, vacuum lines, etc. that you're going through.

I later found out the MAF I bought through an online auto parts site was not an OEM replacement part although looking identical to ours and listed through the site as applicable for the MS6, it wasn't.

But if you got your MAF through Mazda then disregard.

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

Is your replacement MAF a Mazda OEM part purchased from a Mazda dealership??

I had the same issue with my MS6 and went through a lot of the same trouble shooting with the Turbo, Wastgate, vacuum lines, etc. that you're going through.

I later found out the MAF I bought through an online auto parts site was not an OEM replacement part although looking identical to ours and listed through the site as applicable for the MS6, it wasn't.

But if you got your MAF through Mazda then disregard.

HMMMM thats a new thought I didn't have.... I bought a remanufactured one thru RockAuto.com. and like you said it looks identical.. how much did you pay for the OEM MAF? If only I heard from you earlier haha.

thank you

 

[FORZDA 1]

HMMMM thats a new thought I didn't have.... I bought a remanufactured one thru RockAuto.com. and like you said it looks identical.. how much did you pay for the OEM MAF? If only I heard from you earlier haha.

thank you

A bad MAF could cause boost issues as the MAF is the primary input to the load calculations and subsequent boost. You said it was running the same way before and after you replaced the MAF, so....

 

[Jorgyspeed6]

A bad MAF could cause boost issues as the MAF is the primary input to the load calculations and subsequent boost. You said it was running the same way before and after you replaced the MAF, so....

It started running crappy on my drive back from poland in the heavy slushy snowy autobahn and the MAF was my first thought....and it was dirty covered with road grime and salt that was sucked thru my fujita CAI (which is why I got the cobb short ram a little bit late tho) so i bought a remanufactured MAF thinking it should still be good but maybe it isn't. sounds similar to what cangelo went through..