Heater stuck on? CX-9 GT

W

Whitesnake

Member
Guys,

Has anyone had this problem?.... Yesterday I noticed my passenger vents are blowing Heat instead of Cold or natural air. Ive set it for dual or non dual and both times hot always come out on the pasenger side... I've set it all the way down to 60' and same thing.. is there a relay or a fuse i can pull till I goto the dealer? (rant)(rant)
 
As you probably knew already, the hot air should come out from the low vents, while cold air should come out from the upper ones. If not, something is probably wrong.
 
So even if you set the front for non dual, and 60 degrees with the A/C on, the passenger side blows hot air?

Also with the system set to 'Auto'?

What happens when you you set it to Recirculate, and turn the entire system off?


Set the rear to 'Rear Control' does that A/C work?
 
Whitesnake said:
That's only for the back vents I am talking about the front passenger.. Since the heat can come from top or bottom
Click to expand...
My statement needs refining. In Auto mode, even the front vents are like what I said.
Hot air comes out from lower vent only.
 
How did you resolve this? I'm having the exact same problem. My passenger side heater is stuck on. The driver side works perfectly but the passenger side always blows heat whether its on dual or not.
 
Well,

At least I was not the only one with this issue. I went through every fuse in the vehicle; under the hood and in the glove box and all were good. Next I went through each relay one by one applying power from the battery to each relay. They all actuated so that meant all were fine. I then took out the glove box and worked the dual contril button and temp settings. I noticed that the motor on the passenger side that closes the flapper (door) for heat was not responding. At that point I was worried that the Logicom, computer that controls all motors and sensors, was bad. This part is roughly $1000.00. I took the vehicle to the dealer here in Italy and they ordered the motor for starters. I turned to be the motor and not the Logicom.
 
wifecx9 said:
How did you resolve this? I'm having the exact same problem. My passenger side heater is stuck on. The driver side works perfectly but the passenger side always blows heat whether its on dual or not.
Click to expand...

How did you fix the problem? Did you take it to the dealer, how much did they charge? Appreciate any info as my mazda is doing the same thing. And planning to take it to the dealer. thanks.
 
Is your car still under the warranty? How much did they charge you for the motor? Appreciate any help, as I am about to take it to the dealer. Thanks.
 
Lindyrect said:
Well,

At least I was not the only one with this issue. I went through every fuse in the vehicle; under the hood and in the glove box and all were good. Next I went through each relay one by one applying power from the battery to each relay. They all actuated so that meant all were fine. I then took out the glove box and worked the dual contril button and temp settings. I noticed that the motor on the passenger side that closes the flapper (door) for heat was not responding. At that point I was worried that the Logicom, computer that controls all motors and sensors, was bad. This part is roughly $1000.00. I took the vehicle to the dealer here in Italy and they ordered the motor for starters. I turned to be the motor and not the Logicom.
Click to expand...




Is your car still under the warranty, how much did they charge you for the motor. Appreciate any help as I am about to take it to the dealer. Thanks.
 
I took my car to the Mazda service shop here, btw dealers and service departments are not co-located here, and they ordered the actuator motor. My car is still under warranty, albeit extended, so the labor and part were covered. The only issue I ran into is that I had to pay out of pocket and wait for re-imbursement because the warranty company cannot do money transfers here in Italy to the service department. If you are still under warranty it should not be an issue. Now, prices here are more expensive than in the states and the Euro is worth more, but my total bill was roughly $475ish if I recall correctly.

Now lovemazda95, I would recommend you take your car to Rosenthal Mazda in Arlington for this service. They have the best maintenance department in the area IMO and have covered repairs under warranty that they did not have to. Stay away from Laurel Mazda as they are the worst dealer and service department I have ever been to. They have tried to rip me off on numerous occasions by stating that I needed major work on my vehicle when it was not the case. They actually damaged my car while fixing a recall, to which I had to bring the vehicle back a week later so that they could repair it. They also tried to refuse original warranty work on my car because it was 26 miles over the allowed mileage because I had to drive my vehicle the 50 miles up to the scheduled appointment. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the info, now to find the part number, since I am out of warranty (figures). Hopefully this is not a big deal to repair.
 
Repair

It turns out to be the actuator, its location is on the passenger side of the car, behind the glove box and to the left. Its black in color and you can not miss it, because it is mounted onto the A/C duct main housing which is white in color (only thing there). There are three silver screws holding it to the housing with a green electrical 5 wire harness connector, plus the actuator arm. This actuator opens and closes based on the Logicom controller. It only took me 30 minutes to remove and replace.
 
kenbuff1 said:
It turns out to be the actuator, its location is on the passenger side of the car, behind the glove box and to the left. Its black in color and you can not miss it, because it is mounted onto the A/C duct main housing which is white in color (only thing there). There are three silver screws holding it to the housing with a green electrical 5 wire harness connector, plus the actuator arm. This actuator opens and closes based on the Logicom controller. It only took me 30 minutes to remove and replace.
Click to expand...
Do you know if this is the same for the drivers side? My driver's side is blowing hot air and my passenger's side and rear A/C is fine. I just took it to my dealer and they told me it would cost $3900 to replace the heater core because the flap that is stuck is inside the heater which is an enclosed system. They gave me an $1800 option that would be a used component with no warranty. I don't trust this dealer. I think he is both incompetent and dishonest, not sure which is here.

I have 260K miles on my 2007 CX9 AWD Touring and I love it, but $4000 starts making me wonder if it is worth fixing. I need new tires and a brake job soon. I don't wan o spend more $$$ than my car is worth.
----------------------
Update. Got refrigerant added today and it fixed my HVAC problem for $49.99.
 
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