headlight question...
- Thread starter SurlySays
- Start date
changing the bulbs is actually really easy. if you have your owners manuel u can even look in there for guidance. i changed my bulbs to silverstar bright whites. there wasnt a huge improvement in light but i like the white color over the dull yellow from stock.
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Take a look here:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Headlights-Improvements&highlight=candlepower
John
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Headlights-Improvements&highlight=candlepower
John
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
I would not recommend bulbs of higher wattage than stock. Factory. Mazda uses small guage wiring for the headlight harness and the connectors themselves arent real heavy duty. On that note do not run HIDs in the factory halogen reflectors. The glare is unsafe for other drivers and the massive foreground light fatigues your eyes and limits your distance vision. Real 10,000k bulbs are far too blue to see anything other than blue in front of the car. 4300k produces the most lumens while 5000k produces the purest white light while sacrificing some lumens.
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
On the other hand, I've had the bulbs I mentioned in the link for over a year with zero problems and a nice increase in light that doesn't blind other drivers. Not a huge change, just enough.
If truly concerned (and I'm not) it would be easy to build an auxilliary harness with heavier wire and plugs, and Bosch relays.
I do agree that HID kits that plug in place of the stock bulbs can be a real bad idea for the reasons stated.
John
If truly concerned (and I'm not) it would be easy to build an auxilliary harness with heavier wire and plugs, and Bosch relays.
I do agree that HID kits that plug in place of the stock bulbs can be a real bad idea for the reasons stated.
John
Im indebted to John for the terrific suggestion on the Osrams Ralleys....Im more than totally happy with them....I also replaced all the other bulbs with Silverstars to give my 2 more general visibility......I live in Massachusetts & you know how those drivers operate !....
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Just in passing, the difference between 70 watts and 60 watts at 12 volts is 0.8 amps. Pretty close to zip. Talking about 5 and 5.8 amps.
Here is a chart of gauge sizes and amp ratings in a 12 volt system (scroll down):
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm
22 gauge for 5 amp draw and the next size up is 20 gauge for 8 amp draw.
I don't see how it could be an issue in a new car nor in a year of usage have I seen any problems. My wife's 1998 Civic had Cibie 100/65's for 10 years with no issues. I've had 100 watt bulbs in Datsuns, Nissans and Acuras. Zero issues. A 10 watt increase seems miniscule.
I'll have to take my IR thermometer and see how warm the wires are after driving.
I'll report back.
John
Here is a chart of gauge sizes and amp ratings in a 12 volt system (scroll down):
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm
22 gauge for 5 amp draw and the next size up is 20 gauge for 8 amp draw.
I don't see how it could be an issue in a new car nor in a year of usage have I seen any problems. My wife's 1998 Civic had Cibie 100/65's for 10 years with no issues. I've had 100 watt bulbs in Datsuns, Nissans and Acuras. Zero issues. A 10 watt increase seems miniscule.
I'll have to take my IR thermometer and see how warm the wires are after driving.
I'll report back.
John
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
Not saying you will have any issues, but it may be encountered. Im very interested in the infared readings on the wires. Id also like to see the temperature differences in the bulb capsules themselves to really see the heat difference. We did this with OEM and aftermarket HID bulbs and found the OEMs ran cooler.
I can tell you right now that if you run a 100 watt bulb in a dodge neon, you burn up the multifunction switch in the column. And I wasn't the only one who had that issue. It was pretty common in the neon/pt cruisers.
So not all cars are created equal. Some have their weak spots lol! (I won't ever run a higher wattage bulb on stock wiring again)
So not all cars are created equal. Some have their weak spots lol! (I won't ever run a higher wattage bulb on stock wiring again)
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Hi Jess,
The accountants (the real car designers) at Dodge probably picked the minimal quality wire gauge and switches needed for the OEM light bulbs. I really doubt if an American accountant ever considered dis-embowling themselves for screwing up.<LOL>
In 1970 I bought a Ford product. They put a low rpm truck engine in a car which exceeded the rpm it was designed for when you drove down a thruway. Being young,I tended to exceed that RPM.
Last domestic car I bought.
I truly believe that the Japanese engineers usually build in additional headroom into their manufacturing that folks like me hardly ever exceed. There lies the difference in Mazda and Honda, etc, etc, compared to domestic cars that we have come to appreciate.
If there are real concerns about wiring and relays, a sub-harness with beefier wire and relays is truly easy to build.
John
The accountants (the real car designers) at Dodge probably picked the minimal quality wire gauge and switches needed for the OEM light bulbs. I really doubt if an American accountant ever considered dis-embowling themselves for screwing up.<LOL>
In 1970 I bought a Ford product. They put a low rpm truck engine in a car which exceeded the rpm it was designed for when you drove down a thruway. Being young,I tended to exceed that RPM.
Last domestic car I bought.
I truly believe that the Japanese engineers usually build in additional headroom into their manufacturing that folks like me hardly ever exceed. There lies the difference in Mazda and Honda, etc, etc, compared to domestic cars that we have come to appreciate.
If there are real concerns about wiring and relays, a sub-harness with beefier wire and relays is truly easy to build.
John
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the HID's im using actually run less wattage than the standard halogens and as for the wiring, if you look at my pictures on my other post in the OEM projector thread you can see the 2 silver ballasts in the kit, these do all the power converting, they dont take any power from the cars wiring, it has a direct + connection to the battery with its own fuse, and has 2 earth connections to the chassis, the only connection it has to the cars wiring is from the bulb cable so it comes on when i turn the lights on from the cabin, so no need to worry about heating the wires oh and as for the temp of the bulbs again check out my pics they are encased in their own heatshield completely protecting the headlight casing.
Basically it has its own circuit so you dont fry the cars electrics (breakn)
You would probably have more chance of frying wires using more wattage in the bulbs tbh, drawing more power, creates more heat?
Basically it has its own circuit so you dont fry the cars electrics (breakn)
You would probably have more chance of frying wires using more wattage in the bulbs tbh, drawing more power, creates more heat?
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- All Mazdas!
.....That probably explains the demise of many American car companies. ie...if its not broken we over-engineered it....this is in direct opposition to " The Mazda Way ! "
I was just providing an example that not all cars are created equal, and something COULD possibly happen. Just like in another thread where someone said their 14" rims fit, so most 14" rims should fit. That's a horrible assumption and I'd never be caught making it, especially because it's spreading mis-information... Miata 14s won't fit... case in point.(eekdance)
Suddueth13
Member
- :
- 2011 Mazda 2 Sport, 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II
As long as you use a wiring harness you wouldn't run the risk of damaging the wires. Keep in mind that it takes 25,000 volts to ignite the salt mixtures in xenon bulbs. Without the harness, it can get dangerous
I think you should re-read my post, my xenon kit is a completely seperate circuit, the kit itself is setup to run the bulbs so no need for any issue with any wiring harness
As you can see, 2 ballasts, 2 bulbs and all the wiring to power the bulbs, which is powered from a direct + connection to the battery
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Hi,
Wiring check with slightly higher wattage bulbs.
I'm back.............. Drove 25 miles with headlights on. About 33 degrees F outside per my infra red temp gauge.
Left the car idling with headlights on and, of course, with the hood open. Most of the stuff in the engine compartment measured between 40 and 50 degrees (didn't check the engine. I assume that's hotter.<LOL>).
The battery measured 50 degrees and I assume that is in part because it sucked in heat from the engine compartment while the car was going down the highway.
The wires running to the headlights were approximately 44 degrees while the back of the headlight socket plug was at 50. I checked both headlights and they ran about the same. Sounds reasonable to me.
FWIW, the bulbs have been in for about 1 year and 13,000 miles with no issues.
John
Wiring check with slightly higher wattage bulbs.
I'm back.............. Drove 25 miles with headlights on. About 33 degrees F outside per my infra red temp gauge.
Left the car idling with headlights on and, of course, with the hood open. Most of the stuff in the engine compartment measured between 40 and 50 degrees (didn't check the engine. I assume that's hotter.<LOL>).
The battery measured 50 degrees and I assume that is in part because it sucked in heat from the engine compartment while the car was going down the highway.
The wires running to the headlights were approximately 44 degrees while the back of the headlight socket plug was at 50. I checked both headlights and they ran about the same. Sounds reasonable to me.
FWIW, the bulbs have been in for about 1 year and 13,000 miles with no issues.
John
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