Has anyone done a DIY oil change on a 2.5T (turbo)?

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Buzzard said:
Not to mention the additional build-up on the backs of the intake valves from the oil consumption of way thin oil....
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Yet one more reason for regular oil changes with a good quality oil, it doesn't have to be a boutique oil like Amsoil, Redline, Driven etc. Just a good quality group 3 or 3+ synthetic like Valvoline, Penzoil, Mobil 1 etc.

That is also another good case for applications of hydrogenated DLC coatings in ICE applications however (aka TriboTEX), because it enhances ring seal, thus keeping your oil cleaner for longer and reducing vaporization rates. It would also form on valve guides, so you'd get less oil seepage through the valve guides on to the intake valves. Follow up with a good OE quality paper air filter and even in a TDI engine you can limit intake valve fouling issues.

I do believe there are cleaning services available however, they use walnut shells to blast into the intake, then suck them back out to clean the valves / stems. Subaru was doing what for a while with their WRX's, not sure if other manufacturers are doing anything or if that is enough of an issue with modern designs / oil formulas.

But it also makes a good case for using an oil with a strong detergent package.
 
yrwei52 said:
I agree with all the benefits of DIY on oil change. Not like ATF change which is almost impossible to DIY on 2.5T, engine oil change procedure on 2.5T is exactly the same as the one on 2.0L / 2.5L, nothing needs to be changed. Here’s an excellent write-up by tomcat1446:

CX-5 Oil Change with Filter

The oil capacity is different and Mazda says 5.1 quarts with oil filter change. But based on the experience of DIYers like DwightFrye you need 0.3~0.4 quart more if you want the oil level reaching the Max mark of the dipstick.

The recommended oil viscosity is different on 2.5T, which is 5W-30. The oil filter on 2.5T, p/n PY8W-14-302 or 1WPY-14-302, is different from the one used on 2.0L / 2.5L. And the drain plug has changed from unique 8mm hex socket type to traditional 17mm hex head bolt type.

Not like most others like Toyota where the oil filter is located at the front side of the engine for easy access, our oil filter is located at the back side of the engine. We need to go deeper underneath the engine, and ramps usually are needed to have more space for the job. I use a pair of self-made 2-layer 2X10 boards to drive up which would raise the height of CX-5 a bit.
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I found that this is correct. I used about 5.4 quarts in a 3 turbo and it was slightly below the top hole. So about 5.5 is dead on (when cold).
 
TunaFresh said:
I found that this is correct. I used about 5.4 quarts in a 3 turbo and it was slightly below the top hole. So about 5.5 is dead on (when cold).
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Tchman2016 said:
5.5 quarts to the top line is correct on the 2.5T when cold
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This is excellent news!! The science is settled then ... 5.5 qts of oil to fill a 2.5T to the top hole of the dipstick.

We have ^^^ a motion and a second. Now NOBODY should ever have to question/deliberate about oil quantity on a 2.5T ever again!!

And all the forum people said ... Amen :cool:(y)(y)🤪
 
HyFlyer said:
This is excellent news!! The science is settled then ... 5.5 qts of oil to fill a 2.5T to the top hole of the dipstick.

We have ^^^ a motion and a second. Now NOBODY should ever have to question/deliberate about oil quantity on a 2.5T ever again!!

And all the forum people said ... Amen :cool:(y)(y)🤪
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There is no science. There was only a difference of opinion on what is "right", and what is "right" ultimately depends on the owner's preferences.
 
I prefer my oil level to sit just below the Max line, so 5 Qts is what I've been using.

I just changed it last weekend. I still can't get over how easy it is to do on the CX-5. No jack needed and I'm done in about a half hour, counting the time it takes to put the old oil in the empty jugs.
 
The discrepancy between 5.1 (per manual) and 5.4-5.5qts is due to checking cold vs warm from what I can tell. This was the same as my previous Mazdas as well.

I put in 5.4 and it's just a tad below top hole when cold, but after car has been driven to operating temp and after letting it sit for 5-10 mins, it touches the top hole.

Either way is fine depending on what you prefer.
 
TunaFresh said:
The discrepancy between 5.1 (per manual) and 5.4-5.5qts is due to checking cold vs warm from what I can tell. This was the same as my previous Mazdas as well.

I put in 5.4 and it's just a tad below top hole when cold, but after car has been driven to operating temp and after letting it sit for 5-10 mins, it touches the top hole.

Either way is fine depending on what you prefer.
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This’s not true. Checking oil level warm or cold doesn’t make too much difference as l’ve pointed out many times with comparison pictures to prove. Yes, oil will expand a bit when warm (but not that much like the ATF), but so as more oil will be drained back to the oil pan when oil is cold.

On the 2.5L NA people usually put in 5 quarts instead of specified 4.8 quarts still the oil level can’t reach the Full / Max mark of the dipstick, warm or cold. It actually requires 5.25 quarts to get to the top hole. It’s similar on the 2.5T, if you use 5.1 quarts specified by Mazda the oil level simply can’t reach the Max hole on the dipstick, warm or cold.

The problem is the “approximate” fluid quantities specified by Mazda aren’t accurate and consistent. Some are correct, front transfer case, but some are way off, rear differential, so as the oil change quantities for different engines.
 
^^ See? It's preference.

Fact is, Mazda states that the listed fluid capacities are approximate. Paired with the fact that the dipstick has a Max and Min range, and that they suggest to add oil only if the level is near the Min hole, there is no "problem". There is only a preference to fill to the Max hole.
 
sm1ke said:
Fact is, Mazda states that the listed fluid capacities are approximate. Paired with the fact that the dipstick has a Max and Min range, and that they suggest to add oil to the Max mark only if the level is near the Min hole, there is no "problem". There is only a preference to fill to the Max hole.
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Fixed based on Mazda’s owner’s manual:

We want the biggest safety margin, this means you want every fluid at the Full level when you check the fluid level - we call it top off.

You only need one incident to ruin the engine. And I almost had one on my Toyota Yaris iA if the Toyota dealer didn’t fill up the oil over the Full mark by their oil change.

The fact is, Mazda is the only car I have ever owned having this “approximate” fluid quantities where they’re hit and miss, or the amount specified isn’t to the Full (or Max) level!
 
It took 5.5-5.6 quarts to hit the top hole when cold after sitting all night. Oil filter changed as well. 21 3T. Took more than I expected.

IMG_5214.jpg
 
I tried [me seeing more oil qty back-n-forth --> o_O🤪like hearing "the forbidden riff" at a guitar show] lol
 
Here's my reasoning on only adding 5 qts. It puts the level just under the MAX mark, so there's room for a little OD, which is a common on DI engines. I've checked my oil on and off over the years. Sometimes it's at, or just slightly above the MAX mark. Other times it's back to where I filled it to. I have never been anywhere near the MIN mark on the dipstick.
 
Yeah I can relate to that. When I checked the oil after the first 200 miles on the engine, it was a tad above the top hole. What I found was that they are coming slightly overfilled from factory. I had thought it was fuel dilution but that was not correct. I personally like the oil to be exactly at the top/max line. Even if I had half a quart of fuel dilution it won't hurt the engine as all engines have some room for spare capacity in the event of a major overfill. I'd only be concerned with anything more than 1/2 quart overfilled.

I do my oil oil changes so I can be as particular as I like. I wonder what most dealerships are doing? I assume 5qts and done.
 
yrwei52 said:
Yeah, some DIY members with the 2.5T claimed it requires ~5.5 quarts instead of Mazda specified 5.1 quarts for oil change to reach the Max hole.
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And this ^^ is the reason for all the back and forth. Mazda specifies 5.1 quarts, but does not specify that the oil level needs to be at the max hole. Mazda does specify that the acceptable range on the dipstick is anywhere between the Min and Max mark, with a recommendation to top up if the level is near the Min mark. I can personally guarantee (I have a 2.5T) that draining the oil and pouring in one 5L jug of oil results in an oil level reading near the middle of Min and Max marks, i.e. nowhere near the Min mark. With that in mind, I suspect that this recommendation to top up when near Min is for that additional safety margin on an engine that is evidently consuming oil.

Example: Say you changed the oil and checked the level, it was dead center between Min and Max. You go on a 1400 mi road trip, and when you come back, you check the oil level again. Now it's close to the Min mark. Something isn't quite right, so you top up to the Max mark like the manual says, just in case the consumption continues until your next oil change, or until you can troubleshoot the issue.

If you prefer to fill to the Max mark, you will need more than 5.1 quarts, likely 5.5 as many who prefer to fill to Max have reported. If you go by the book, 5.1 quarts will get you there.
 
sm1ke said:
And this ^^ is the reason for all the back and forth. Mazda specifies 5.1 quarts, but does not specify that the oil level needs to be at the max hole. Mazda does specify that the acceptable range on the dipstick is anywhere between the Min and Max mark, with a recommendation to top up if the level is near the Min mark. I can personally guarantee (I have a 2.5T) that draining the oil and pouring in one 5L jug of oil results in an oil level reading near the middle of Min and Max marks, i.e. nowhere near the Min mark. With that in mind, I suspect that this recommendation to top up when near Min is for that additional safety margin on an engine that is evidently consuming oil.

Example: Say you changed the oil and checked the level, it was dead center between Min and Max. You go on a 1400 mi road trip, and when you come back, you check the oil level again. Now it's close to the Min mark. Something isn't quite right, so you top up to the Max mark like the manual says, just in case the consumption continues until your next oil change, or until you can troubleshoot the issue.

If you prefer to fill to the Max mark, you will need more than 5.1 quarts, likely 5.5 as many who prefer to fill to Max have reported. If you go by the book, 5.1 quarts will get you there.
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My point is still, the inconsistency on specified “approximate” fluid quantities. All car manufactures give you the amount on oil change (other than Mazda) to the “full” amount; not in the middle between “Max” and “Min”. You put in specified 0.45 quart gear oil to front transfer case, the amount is perfectly fine to the fill hole; but when you put in specified 0.45 / 0.37 quart (gen-1 / gen-2 CX-5) into rear differential, oops, way short! This gives DIYers an bad impression that Mazda isn’t care about accuracy and precision on fluid capacities, what else Mazda doesn’t care? Oh yes, giving the range of every torque spec instead of a single specific value like everybody else is another example!

And how many times we have seen here that DIYers got confused by Mazda specified oil change quanyity the first time they’re changing the oil on CX-5?
 
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