Haltech F10X help

Falango

Member
Went to take my car through an emissions check today and failed. I had 5 monitors that were not set, including the catalytic converter, O2 sensors, and others I cannot recall right now. A guy there told me it was typical to see if the battery had lost power, and the ECU had lost power. Battery has not lost power at all since January, when I replaced the battery. I have a Haltech F10X that did have to clear a CEL that came up a few days back. I believe it was Friday or Saturday, can't remember exactly. My assumption is the piggyback clears the stock ECU memory (including these monitors) on the next startup when there is a CEL present, or does it do it on every startup??

Also, is there an option in the software to disable this memory reset so that I can drive the car enough to re-establish the monitors?

How long do you have to drive before these monitors get set anyway?
 
So I found the thread about the procedure on setting these monitors. Turns out the F10X is reseting the stock ECU every time the car turns off. Unfortunately, the guy turned the car off just before plugging in to the OBD2, which wiped the ECU. If he hadn't have done that (which they don't normally do), I would have been fine. Car won't start with the F10X unplugged either. Turns over fine, but there's no fuel going in at all. Any ideas?
 
Well, for those interested, I've done a bit of research, and here's what I got.

The F10X will NEVER pass an OBDII emissions test, ever. The unit itself seems to be preventing the stock ECU from setting the emissions monitors, even after the driving cycle has been done. I did it on Friday, and did each and every step twice what was required, and not one of the monitors set. At first I thought the monitors were being reset after I turn the car off every time, because the F10X seems to only allow the stock ECU to get power when the car is on, via the ifnition switch wired to the F10X.

For those that live in an area that requires emissions testing, and has a F10X unit, have fun. To pass, I'm going to have to uninstall the unit and open the wastegate on the turbo, so the car can atleast run NA off the stock ECU. I'd prefer to not hit boost on the stock fuel map, lol.
 
believe it or not you can run a solid 5 psi on a small turbo with the stock fuel setup. It might not be awesome AF ratings but the stock ECu riches out when going into higher RPM just enough to lean out when a turbo is present.
 
Well stopping the turbo from spooling isn't as much of a problem as getting the car to run back on the stock ECU. All I've had to do is pull a pin on the wastegate and secure it open, only took 5 minutes. I may just go ahead and get my Microtech installed and tuned with a conservative map for now and get rid of the Haltech.
 
How would a guy go about cheating the system? I've got a LT10S that I will put in and as far as I know there are no emissions laws here... Yet! Is there a way to have the stock ecu run when no power to standalone and pretty much have a switch to turn it back on? Or a main connection that will allow ecu to work on its own?
 
You will have to get one of those ECU Harness Extender things that AEM offers. It goes in the middle between your ECU harness and your ECU. That way you can just wire the Haltech into that, instead of your original ECU wires and when you need to remove the Haltech, you would just take the middle section out and plug the original plugs back together.
 

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No standalone system will let you pass as posted in your other thread already.

I've been working on it but for some reason, it's still not passing. Was just seeing if the Microtech was an option to help. Didn't pass on Monday again because 4 monitors weren't set, so atleast one was. I think the other 4 were still in the works because I had only put 140km on the car since the last ECU reset. Should have atleast 400 on the car by Friday, when I'm going in next.
 
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