HiBoost TS
Member
kasmankk said:stock , out of my car.
Kasman, maybe your sensor is not designed to work with a 36 teeth wheel. It is not the same reading 3 teeth than 36 every engine revolution. Or maybe it is too far away.
kasmankk said:stock , out of my car.
HiBoost TS said:Kasman, maybe your sensor is not designed to work with a 36 teeth wheel. It is not the same reading 3 teeth than 36 every engine revolution. Or maybe it is too far away.
kasmankk said:yeah maybe.. i've removed all the hardware from the crank pulley. i'll saty with F10 at the moment until i get the right parts.
the ig coil, no stock in malaysia. I've been loking high and low for the coil in the scrap yard. no luck.
Pls quote me the following:-
1. a pair of ig coils
2. lightweight crank pulley
3. us version crank sensor
4. us version crank sensor wheel.
and by the way, do you think evo ig module (power transistor & coil) is compatible with p5? I read the p5 manual, the ecu trigger the coil at about 3Vdc. I'm able to get this ig module easily here.
And..other then the cranl wheel, is there any other method to get the crank signal?
kasmanRSt(shrug)
HiBoost TS said:Kasman,
Let me know the outer diameter of your pulley and I will get you a nice setup. An aluminum crank wheel with a couple of magnets and a Haltech Hall effect sensor. That is the best way to have the E6X trigger. It will work with stock coild up to 30 psi of boost.
Juan
kasmankk said:juan:
crank pulley is same as us p5, only the crank sensor wheel has different pattern.
let me know your plan on the setup. are using a haltech s3 sensor and 2 magnets right?
in that case, i'd like to keep the stock crank sensor wheel and sensor.
you still have not anwered my question, do you have the coils? My coils are in bad bad shape. Does Mits 4g63 ignition module compatible with FS ignition system? pls PM me on the details. Thanks.
kasmanRSt
LinuxRacr said:Are you in need of FS coils? They can be had in the US for around $20 USD each. If you need help getting some, let me know. Does your car use the same coils? Do they attach the same?
kasmankk said:yes...can't find them here. no stock.
are you sure it is us$20 a piece. that's super cheep. Here it cost us$100 !
Can you help? gimme a quote + shipping to malaysia via ups or fedex. PM me on the details. here how me engine looks like
LinuxRacr said:Yeah, when I replaced mine, they were around $20 a piece. I accually keep an extra coil in my trunk. In the picture you provided it looks like they are the same coils. This is good news. I will check Monday to make sure on the price.
HiBoost TS said:I will send you a picture of how to make an aluminum ring to install on the original pulley with two magnets and a Haltech hall effect sensor. That is what I use on all honda motors and on all motors with a non compatible triggering system with Haltech. Or I can make the ring if you tell me the exact outside diameter of the pulley and let me know the clearence between the pulley and chassis.
Juan
ddogg777 said:Juan, could I get a picture of this. I am currently using the AEM to share my crank sensor with the stock ecu so that the tach still works. It seems to work fine up till about 6000 rpm, then the stock tach freaks out...Someday I think I want it to have it's own signal so I would like to see what you offer... Thanks!
ddogg777 said:Right now I am just spliced into my stock crank signal with a pair of diodes; So it's being shared with the stock ecu. I am going to try changing out the few feet of AEM wires because none of them are shielded and I know that the signal might get dirty, especially at higher rpms. If that doesn't work, then I will look into getting another sensor. The AEM can use Hall effect too. The funny thing is, the AEM isn't losing the signal, the stock ecu is affected because the stock rpm gauge goes whacky at about 5800.
ddogg777 said:yeah, I think it would be best. I checked out your new website, it looks nice. But I think you should sell all your cool little gadgets too like the sensor brackets. I'd prolly snatch one up.![]()
ddogg777 said:I was under the impression that the stock ecu had to run the tach! You mean the Haltech successfully controls the stock tach? I will have to try hooking up the AEM to it then...
I still run the crank signal to the stocker so that it can control the vics and vtcs and alternator, etc...