GT3071R opinions needed

Probably around 225-230 once I get my intake and FMIC, probably around 300 after I get the cash to go forged. I probably won't be dragging it as much as I will street driving, with the occasional autox/track day thrown in.

I believe the stock turbo can reach 300hp, s*** even to the wheels probably, but the disco will definitely reach your goals.
 
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I see... well that just leaves which one would spool quicker I guess.

I'll have to replace it eventually either way, my wastegate wouldn't close all the way when I pulled the turbo out to put the downpipe in. It's not the actuator either, I disconnected it and the actual gate won't close, something's misaligned.
 
I believe the stock turbo can reach 300hp, s*** even to the wheels probably, but the disco will definitely reach your goals.
you would be badly mistaken. stock turbo is barely good to 200 at the wheels. disco should be fine, probably the smaller A/R. if i remember, you're close to maxing it out, but if youre going to autox i'd just stick with the smaller A/R.

edit: and at 230 to the wheels, you better be sure you know what you're doing... thats getting close to the "boom" territory. lots of cars blow up above 225... 250 youre OK if you know what youre doing...
 
you would be badly mistaken. stock turbo is barely good to 200 at the wheels. disco should be fine, probably the smaller A/R. if i remember, you're close to maxing it out, but if youre going to autox i'd just stick with the smaller A/R.

200whp? s*** I'm probably making 200 at the wheels on stock boost and I'm not even tuned. I could have sworn it would reach 250+whp @ 15-16psi, but then didn't someone recently dyno with a stroker kit with a disco and only reach 288whp or something? O.o

Everyone seems to reach different numbers with similar turbos. Wish there was a definitive answer to this whole turbo thing..
 
you sound like youre in good shape. s***, you might be better off going with some crazy s*** like a two-step/flatfoot box and (dare i say) a NOS lag eliminator. OK maybe the latter is too far (spool on a GT will never be "that" bad).
i honestly dont think stepping down to a smaller A/R is the way you want to go... then you risk the high end power. it might just be an estimate, but we both know you might start pushing the upper limit of the 3071 much above 400whp. youd have to ask someone whos used one, because ballpark numbers only make so much sense on paper -- not in practice. the 3076 you're golden with -- the spool is slightly later, but thats the trade you make, and i doubt youd notice much of difference with a GT series. GTX is too new for me to comment on.

by the way, as expensive as the 505 IM is, im guessing itd add 25whp over the 626 @400whp. another ballpark, but thats a hell of a manifold.

let me ask one more question though, when you shift, are you landing right inside peak boost, or do you have to wait for it to fully spool again? i dont think you would, but i better ask...
 
200whp? s*** I'm probably making 200 at the wheels on stock boost and I'm not even tuned. I could have sworn it would reach 250+whp @ 15-16psi, but then didn't someone recently dyno with a stroker kit with a disco and only reach 288whp or something? O.o

Everyone seems to reach different numbers with similar turbos. Wish there was a definitive answer to this whole turbo thing..
you might be, but you have an assload of mods compared to most people. your car is very well modded for a low-boost car. you could probably crack 250, but it gets infinitely easier with a bigger turbo. you have to run 16psi on the 2554, but the boost drops to 12psi once you get close to redline because the turbo isnt efficient anymore so thats whats reflected in your peak whp. meanwhile the disco could run 13psi straight across the board and not break a sweat... and with the timing advance in the midrange on these cars, running 16psi in the midrange (before it drops to 12) is what kills a lot of MSP's.
 
I want that crazy 505 intake mani but the price is a little excessive for 10 bucks worth of aluminium.

im sorry bro but i know how much these thing's cost to make and materials definitely aren't 10 bucks lol. You should of gotten one with all the money you have spent on your build it would of been the perfect thing to finish it off.
 
let me ask one more question though, when you shift, are you landing right inside peak boost, or do you have to wait for it to fully spool again? i dont think you would, but i better ask...

If I'm on the street and say when I'm giving it hell and shift fast but let off gas in between thenb I'll probly lose like 5psi, but it comes back in less than a second.

BUT if I'm drag racing I've got the haltech set up for rally anti-lag shifting which basically dumps fuel into the motor and causes backfiring to create load and keep the boost up. Basically its just full throttle shifting with a little extra science.

And yes Im sure the 505 had lots of R&R and it looks like an awesome mani, I really wish I could of got one. But that all happened when I was away from the forums so I didn't even know about it haha.
 
I would recommend for you to try something different before changing turbos, and that is changing the intake manifold. I switched from a 626 to a stock one that I ported and removed both VICS and VTCS and the difference in top end is like night and day. There are many people that feel that going with a 626 manifold is a downgrade from stock and once i went back to stock I can see why. Just my .02.
 
you could get the chambers bored out on the stock one. another good option. not as good as a 505, but not $1k+ either
 
I dont know if the 626 is better or worse cause when I installed that I also built the motor, put cams in and got a t3/t4 turbo lol So its hard to really see any gains or not from just that one item. If theres a better IM out there for a realistic price Im all about it. Steedspeed's looks very promising, hopefully he whips that up soon!!

On another note, where I live in NB theres a thing called seasonal registration which is a special plate only good from april 1st to oct 31st. And it allows you to legally not have a front plate which looks way nicer. So I'm right excited about friday when I can rip the ole MSP again!!!!
 
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Signaturesound is running 3071R and making 400whp not sure on the A/R though ...

What are your tire specs ?
What clutch/flywheel are you using ?

I got GT3071R 64A/R as well which will go in this summer ..
 
tires are 215/35r18. Clutch is ACT stage 4 HD pressure plate with 4 puck unsprung disk.

I think that guy is running .72 a/r twin scroll.
 
i didnt know they made a twinscroll in a 3071. what manifold does he use? i cant remember if steedspeed is a divided flange...
 
i didnt know they made a twinscroll in a 3071. what manifold does he use? i cant remember if steedspeed is a divided flange...

Exhaust%20Parts%20Apart.jpg
 
I run a single ball bearing garrett T3/T4R61mm, I love it because it was cheap and is rebuildable. I'm running steedspeed's divided T3 turbo mani and I have nothing but great things to say about it. The welds are perfect and the coating is still holding up.

Like people have said, brian is making just under 400whp at 26psi on a GT3071R which is in my opinion a great street turbo for our motors. Good spool and topend. Probably better than mine I admit, but at the same time what is you're goal? Straight line acceleration, track racing, autox, or just good old street driving?

If I had the money for a new turbo I would opt for precision's new hp bb style turbos, but there not cheap.
 
wow, late to the party again here... sorry. Yes I am running the GT3071R twin scroll. It has the .72ar with 4"intake that has the anti surge machining. I did TONS of research before my purchase and I must say the only other turbo that would be close is the Turbonetics GTK 450 or 500. I went with the Garrett because I have an awsome hook up. My boy Chris Burd over at MAPerformance is the s*** and will hook you up if you mention me. My turbo was $1150 shipped, clutch (ACT extreme with 6 puck) $400 shipped, the list goes on. But anyway, I think its the perfect turbo, EXCEPT now the fuckers came out with the billet wheel for the X series. Its the cats ass!!! I want it badly too, but like everyone else I am broke now.

I started doing things that make free horsepower to the car like stripping the interior and so on, but the one thing that made a MASSIVE difference was porting and gasket matching the steed mani and the turbine inlet. Here are some pics of that:

Right port is before, left port is after (cylinder head was already ported and matched):
IMG_20110303_185817-1.jpg


Turbine before:
IMG_20110304_232516.jpg


After with knife edge divider:
IMG_20110305_161346-1.jpg




The gains were so tremendous that I could no longer drive the car with the same fuel maps. It went so lean it was bucking! My fuel maps had to be increased by a lot and now my timing is going to be increased as well. I debated going with the 3076, but knew the amount of RPM required to enjoy the power was never going to happen. No matter how much you build the head with all the greatest stuff, you will pop it for sure hitting 8 grand rpm.

So even with the .72ar, its a blast for street cruising and pulls like a beast all the way from 4000 rpm to 7,000. It has no signs of weakening either. Here is my dyno.

Dyno396whp373tq.jpg


Notice the power (torque) has JUST barely started to drop off... The HP has a ton of room to go. I hope to hit 500 some day soon, but dont want to change my MAP sensor to do it. So whatever I get out of 30 psi will be my end result. I might go for it with race gas and do a dual map set up for it. I'm sure that would be insane for a few trips down the drag strip. On the street, 400 about rips the steering wheel out of my hands even in 4th gear. The torque steer is scary and theres not enough road width to be safe doing it. I tried doing a video today on my phone, but I need a passenger to help me out.
 
If you lived around here I'd be swinging off your nuts so bad lol. The .72a/r is only available in the twin scroll housing, so thats not really a good option for my manifold. After seeing that dyno chart I'd imagine the .82 a/r wouldnt even see the torque drop off. Which is going to be perfect for dragging! I'll be able to efficiently take the bad boy right to redline instead of shifting before it.

Good info man, I'm sold.
 
happy to help bro. keep in touch

If you lived around here I'd be swinging off your nuts so bad lol. The .72a/r is only available in the twin scroll housing, so thats not really a good option for my manifold. After seeing that dyno chart I'd imagine the .82 a/r wouldnt even see the torque drop off. Which is going to be perfect for dragging! I'll be able to efficiently take the bad boy right to redline instead of shifting before it.

Good info man, I'm sold.
 
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