Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling
- Thread starter TX Speed Demon
- Start date
Hey man that sounds awsome. I going to buy the greddy type s BOV and set it up just like you. I going to have someone do the welding for me. Just so I do not get ripped off how much do you think that should cost to have one installed? Also the only thing you had to get was the BOV right?please get back to me thanks
TX Speed Demon
Member
celdridge said:
Nope nope nope nope, sorry guys. Next time hit me up with a PM or email like Chad did to get your questions answered. I don't check this thread that often any more.
celdridge: I think I answered all your questions in email except the outlet adapter. The 19mm outlet adapter is a piece that DOES NOT COME WITH YOUR GREDDY. I bought mine from racingworks.com It is a simple object that screws into the air outlet (where the air comes out) of your greddy. These sell these in several different sizes. 19mm is the same size as the inlet on your STOCK pipe (look a few inches past the stock airbox to where the current BPV recirculates the air back into the system). If you get a hardpipe kit that is the same as stock, it should have the same inlet size. If you get an aftermarket FMIC you will need to double check the size of the inlet and buy a corresponding outlet adapter for your greddy. These outlet adapeters cost about $10-15. The reason you want this the same size as you inlet on your intake pipe is so you can simply connect the two pieces with some silicon hose. Otherwise you'll have to come up with a different method of connecting the outlet on your greddy to the inlet on your intake pipe, which are diffeent sizes (I think the standard outlet on the greddy is like 25mm or something)
AGAIN, THIS IS ONLY NEEDED IF YOU WANT TO RECIRCULATE.
- watch the video in the first link of my sig.
- now compare that to the pictures in the first post of this thread
Notice the extra inch or so of metal sticking out the right side of the greddy in the video? That's the outlet adapter. It reduces the diameter of the pipe to match the diameter of the inlet In the video you can see a small white cap just above the purple top of the greddy. This is the hole on the intake pipe. I have it capped off for now because I am not recirculating.
NASH M J:
You will need to buy more than just the greddy. You will need:
Greddy BOV - $185
Geddy BOV Flange - $35
Pipe - $50
Someone to weld the flange to the pipe - $85
Silicon couplers to attach pipe to tubo and intercooler - $50
If you want to recirculate you will also need:
19mm adapter (or size that matches inlet of your personal setup) - $10-15
Silicon hose to connect the outlet to inlet - this price will vary depending on your setup. If you angle the greddy right you will need only one piece of hose cause everything will line up. If you angle it wrong like I did you will need hose and some 90 degree bends to get it back to the intake inlet. You'll need to do some experimenting and measuring based on your own set up if it is not stock.
ALSO:
gettign the stock tubo-intercooler pipe off the intercooler is a real b****. Be sure to heat it up with a hair dryer before trying to pull it off so you don't break anythign.
TX Speed Demon
Member
celdridge said:
BMC is right. You run it back to the inlet hole on the intake pipe. If you have a single hardpipe like me, you run it to where the stock BPV used to go (it a hole a few inches past the airbox [towards turbo] on the intake pipe). If you are running an injen intake you run it back to the whole on that pipe. If you are runnign a custom hardpipe set up you run it back to the whole allready there, or you have a welder weld a small flange onto the intake pipe so you can connect the two pieces with some hose.
Mn thanks for getting back to me in detail.
I got the BOV and flange for a steel pipe. I bought the 19mm connector and will have somebody put it on. I bought the ION FMIC so that should replace the stock piping will steel piping. So all I will have to do after all that is hook it all up. Thank you for all the help.
I got the BOV and flange for a steel pipe. I bought the 19mm connector and will have somebody put it on. I bought the ION FMIC so that should replace the stock piping will steel piping. So all I will have to do after all that is hook it all up. Thank you for all the help.
Msp-titanium
Member
- :
- Protege Mazdaspeed 2003.5
sorry for the tread jack but i'm a french canadian
and i not full understand english i just want to
know what your saying by (turkey) someone
can explain me please (gossip) end of tread jack
and i not full understand english i just want to
know what your saying by (turkey) someone
can explain me please (gossip) end of tread jack
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49929&highlight=hks+ssqv+vid
HKS setup same as Tx Speed Demon's
HKS setup same as Tx Speed Demon's
YellowSpeed1229
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Mazda Speed Blazing Yellow
will this work with the stock set up?? or only with the hardpipes??
Anyone done this with the HiBoost kit? I want to vent my Greddy Type-S when I install it with the HiBoost kit (in the mail). I see there was only a hardpipe kit on the car in the instructions. I am guessing things might be different with the HiBoost kit. Pics if you have this setup please. Thanks all!
TX Speed Demon
Member
JDM Sam said:
Once I can get the RPMs to completly stop dipping I will. Right now they drop low and occasionally the warning lights flash on. I've tried running the stock vacume source and the break booster line, both with the same results. It seemed to get a little worse when I put the Perrin SRI on. Perhaps it is because I can now get 3psi when revving at under idle(5500 rpms), and peak at 7+psi (1.5 over my initial stock setting) when driving under load.
This weekend, if I can find the time, I'm going to take off the greddy and reattach it with a new gasket, maybe reusing the old one is causing a slight leak (although I doubt it).
I'll also re-read the greddy instructions and see if I can use the secondary vacume source as well. If I remember correctly having a strong vacume source (brake booster line) on the top nipple will help it open quickly, and having a weaker vacume source on the bottom nipple (stock wastegate line) will help it close quicker. I'll have to double check the instructions before trying this, but it may be a solution.
If that doesn't work I'll give it another week for the ECU to relearn my driving style and see if it improves. If at that time the rpm dipping issues are still there I'll switch and start recirculating the greddy. I love the sound, but not at the expense of a possible accident.
Until I can get it running perfectly I don't want to steer any other forum members in the wrong direction.
I will however, include a pic of my current set up:
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