Going Forged

Contact darrell cox racing about the rod capabilites they just did testing recently. And your boy is getting hooked up with that speed6. My injector seal failed on the first cylinder causing an intake valve to stick shut blew my pcv valve apart big oily mess anyways it ran me 2300 to remove the block tear it down put it back together then throw it back in then 2050 for machine shop work. 600 in gaskets seals bearing rings etc all this and no forged. Maybe i got ****** but this isn't as simple as it seems. If you can get it done cheap go for it man i wish i coulda but i gotta sell all 3 of my testicles to afford this s*** hahaha

It sounds like you went with the first option after something bad happened. This guy is prepping for a motor build, he can shop around. This build can be done for less than 2500, if you are in NC, I can tell you where to go.
 
already talked to ken about this, in the end. you're better off going with his forged block internals an and the other goodies for 5k it includes everything, which really isnt TOO bad considering. BUT you could go just rods and get gaskets and bearings to make that work. but honestly, you think about HOW MANY MS3s there are out there and just how many their are on THIS forum alone NOT TO MENTION ones that are not. and you see how many people blow their motors and its no entirely a lot. its entirely a thing that just HAPPENS. more so to heavily modded ones. unless youre looking to go 500hp (which in a fwd car is a mistake in my book) theres just no point.



but its also YOURE money and YOURE car.

no def not going 500hp, that would be the same as having 90hp, the car wouldnt move and id go threw tires on a weekly basis lol.. nah im not gonna do a hole block when my stock bock is fine.. ur def right about how many have blown compared to how many there are outtheir, but idk just knowing that your car will not explode is just such a reliefe in my head lol..
 
It sounds like you went with the first option after something bad happened. This guy is prepping for a motor build, he can shop around. This build can be done for less than 2500, if you are in NC, I can tell you where to go.

yea thats wut im saying, i feel like i can have a built motor for about 2300 installed..which isnt bad at all, idk i gtta call up the shop 2morrow 2 see wuts up with install price.
 
if you get a built motor and have it installed for 2300 theres gotta be some kinda b/s or something left out. no way a proper shop will do a build thats gonna work correctly and most importantly last for that cheap. just getting all the parts will put you right around that amount not counting install and all the little stuff. getting a forged setup will be more than 2k
 
don't forget the pine tree air freshener

i got like 52 of em in ym car lol... i bought a bike so i decided to not build it, actually puttin it back to stock for a good daily setup.. kinda leavin the car game for a while..
 
so yall keep going round and round on prices. i just bought all the parts to rebuild my engine(-fluids, sparkplugs) and it cost 1890.41. for parts not bad. labor was told is gonna run me 1500-2000. i expect it to be at the high end. so say 2000 + 1890 = 3890.41. no where near the 5-6 thousand range people were talking about. find a shop that will do all the work themselfs. if you have the means to remove/install your own engine you can save 750-1000.00. its not as bad as people make it seem. most people on here dont have a built engine nor are they looking to build it. they are just going by hear say and things they read. dont let them fool you. some will say hold on there is some companys doing r&d for our cars so hold on. f*** that. build it. hey guess what no matter what comes out for this car(fuel system, big turbo, nos, whatever) i can strap it up and not worry "so what do these stock rods hold up to?". build it and then wait for the r&d. sorry its so long but if you dont know what your talking about then shut up and stop discouraging people to do what they want.(nuts)
 
so yall keep going round and round on prices. i just bought all the parts to rebuild my engine(-fluids, sparkplugs) and it cost 1890.41. for parts not bad. labor was told is gonna run me 1500-2000. i expect it to be at the high end. so say 2000 + 1890 = 3890.41. no where near the 5-6 thousand range people were talking about. find a shop that will do all the work themselfs. if you have the means to remove/install your own engine you can save 750-1000.00. its not as bad as people make it seem. most people on here dont have a built engine nor are they looking to build it. they are just going by hear say and things they read. dont let them fool you. some will say hold on there is some companys doing r&d for our cars so hold on. f*** that. build it. hey guess what no matter what comes out for this car(fuel system, big turbo, nos, whatever) i can strap it up and not worry "so what do these stock rods hold up to?". build it and then wait for the r&d. sorry its so long but if you dont know what your talking about then shut up and stop discouraging people to do what they want.(nuts)

+1000000
thats the best thing i have yet to read on this forum. Hows the build goin man? please tell me ur throwing like a 6262 at that thing. Yea i just through mine back to stock, waiting for the waranty to be up then its fully forged with a 6262 and a 38mm ewg =]
 
no im gonna be running on a reworked ko4 with a mv-s 38mm ewg on a dnp mani. FOR NOW. im looking for a good deal on a big turbo . there are 2 for sale for like 40% off on another forum. and im pursuing that now. prolly going with a gt35 or 40
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(dance)
 
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where is this myth that going with forged internals means you won't blow up your engine coming from??? i'm going forged so my motor won't pop??? wha????

wow... that sure would be nice.

it takes a lot more that forged parts to build big power and stay together. granted, forged internals is a good starting point, there is not such thing as too durable..... and it's gonna stay together a little longer...

i could build nice, usable power in a chev V8 with a cast crank, regular rods, 2 bolt mains, and forged pistons.... but do one with a steel crank, pink rods, arp fasteners, forged pistons, 4 bolt main block, and you could really wing more rpm's out of it... but that isn't all... not in the least. wayyyy more money to spend. forged internals mean nothing if you drop a valve!
 
Howdy, i was under the impression that we had rather strong rods from Mazda.
If this is not true i had better turn my boost down! you have good points squid, the whole package needs to be tied together.
 
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Howdy, i was under the impression that we had rather strong rods from Mazda.
If this is not true i had better turn my boost down! you have good points squid, the whole package needs to be tied together.

The rods aren't strong but they sure aren't weak. Definately capable of handling 350-400whp. Just take a look at them. They are pretty much on par to those in a WRX.
 
Thank you for that. I have never taken her apart so i will take your word on this. If i throw one tomorrow at the track i will have to visit you. I am going to turn up the boost some more if i cannot run twelves. which i feel like it will just touch.
Wish me luck i guess for the last track day of the season up here
 
The rods aren't strong but they sure aren't weak. Definately capable of handling 350-400whp. Just take a look at them. They are pretty much on par to those in a WRX.

not tryin to be a dick or anything but if the rods in the speed3 are truly that strong as u say than how do you explain some people blowing up stock and other people blowing up with some boltons that will make the car produce around 300whp?
 
Forged?

not tryin to be a dick or anything but if the rods in the speed3 are truly that strong as u say than how do you explain some people blowing up stock and other people blowing up with some boltons that will make the car produce around 300whp?
No dickedness.
The car comes so rich stock i just have trouble believing folks ever threw a rod from hard driving. I heard they just popped all of a sudden too. The fuel pumps had a recall reflash at some point for pre 2/07s, and a big drop in fuel pressure under boost would do it. Turning up boost without some adjustments is the usual culprit for a stock motor fail i would guess. But it is a good point whether i am right or wrong. I read somewhere, sometime, that Mazdaspeed said 400 at motor stock. i also read 300whp. I know the clutch is not up to it. But does anyone know the limit? i have not had mine apart YET
 
not tryin to be a dick or anything but if the rods in the speed3 are truly that strong as u say than how do you explain some people blowing up stock and other people blowing up with some boltons that will make the car produce around 300whp?

Onelsono, this has been explained in this thread if im not mistaken. Cars and rods are not directly proportional. That is to say that getting strong rods / pistons won't make your engine impermeable to popping. Will it help ??? Yes it will.

The mazdaspeed 3 / 6 are difficult to extract power and tricky to tune because of the direct injection, ECU, the turbo / powerband and timing. Its more complicated than just saying . . . the rods are weak.

Let me answer your question with a question . . . if the rods are as weak as you say than how can you explain a speed 3 with 420whp? A bunch of 350+whp speed 6's out there?


ANY car you decide to mod can blow. STI's and WRX's blow left and right. Dumb people want cheap power and pay the ultimate price.

I don't know why you get the idea that the speeds are so prone to blowing up. Please make a link of all these threads of blowing engines . . . I have seen maybe 4 or 5. Only a couple of those being near stock. You don't see the 300whp posting how great their engines are. Only the people who are pissed. Im at 302 whp right now and running strong.
 
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