glyph's Haltech E6X log...
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The cooling fan is still working no more overheating, and the AC thing was caused by an oversized o-ring that was put in the piping during the last service. Apparently it worked okay for a while, and then when I loosened and retightened it, the o-ring's size allowed it to get caught in the threads and it got sheared. So all the pressure leaked out. The shop replaced the o-ring, recharged the system, and voila! I have AC again.
So now my only problem is the high EGTs. Today with the ignition map loaded, I got much better throttle response, but the temps are back up to 800C when cruising, and spike occasionally even higher.
Here's where I bite the ego bullet and say: I have no idea what the ignition advancing and retarding really does. I assume advancing means earlier spark in the combustion process, and retarding is vice versa. What I don't know is what the benefits of either direction are. The only way I knew to get this ignition map to where it is was my quick and dirty analysis of a couple other maps people posted (Linuxracr, pdhaudio, etc). But they all run the larger 440cc injectors that I don't have.
So, with that said, I want to get my EGTs down, first, so I can reliably drive to work and back without cooking the whole thing. What's the best way to do that?
Also, I will be heading to the local dyno on Monday to get a little more expert work on what to do with this.
One other note. Even with the high temps, I am getting 13.5 or so AFR when I am on the gas. Obviously a little more work to get it higher. Though I just researched online, and found that I am a schmuck. I was tuning to get around 12, I need to get to 14.7. Oops. That's what I get for not doing my research to doublecheck... Welp, that should be easy enough to fix. I am idling around 12, and most of the tuning I have been shooting for 12, hence the high temps?
Current maps: You'll see I fiddled with the ignition map a little today trying to see what would happen. I didn't mess with the fuel map at all today. This is before messing around to get the ideal 14.7.
So now my only problem is the high EGTs. Today with the ignition map loaded, I got much better throttle response, but the temps are back up to 800C when cruising, and spike occasionally even higher.
Here's where I bite the ego bullet and say: I have no idea what the ignition advancing and retarding really does. I assume advancing means earlier spark in the combustion process, and retarding is vice versa. What I don't know is what the benefits of either direction are. The only way I knew to get this ignition map to where it is was my quick and dirty analysis of a couple other maps people posted (Linuxracr, pdhaudio, etc). But they all run the larger 440cc injectors that I don't have.
So, with that said, I want to get my EGTs down, first, so I can reliably drive to work and back without cooking the whole thing. What's the best way to do that?
Also, I will be heading to the local dyno on Monday to get a little more expert work on what to do with this.
One other note. Even with the high temps, I am getting 13.5 or so AFR when I am on the gas. Obviously a little more work to get it higher. Though I just researched online, and found that I am a schmuck. I was tuning to get around 12, I need to get to 14.7. Oops. That's what I get for not doing my research to doublecheck... Welp, that should be easy enough to fix. I am idling around 12, and most of the tuning I have been shooting for 12, hence the high temps?
Current maps: You'll see I fiddled with the ignition map a little today trying to see what would happen. I didn't mess with the fuel map at all today. This is before messing around to get the ideal 14.7.
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couple quick points...
IN boost you want 12.2 down to about 11.8 for your AFR
Out of boost you want roughly 14.7 and can go up to about 15.2 while light throttle if you want..
ignition advance means how many degrees BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center the spark occurs to ignite the fuel mixture... retard means how much closer to TDC you are... so in other words.. if you are at TDC you have no ignition advance... but if you are at 10 degrees you have 10 degrees of advance... now if you go from 10 to 5 degrees BTDC you just retarded your timing by 5 degrees...
That make sense???
Later,
Steve
IN boost you want 12.2 down to about 11.8 for your AFR
Out of boost you want roughly 14.7 and can go up to about 15.2 while light throttle if you want..
ignition advance means how many degrees BEFORE the piston reaches top dead center the spark occurs to ignite the fuel mixture... retard means how much closer to TDC you are... so in other words.. if you are at TDC you have no ignition advance... but if you are at 10 degrees you have 10 degrees of advance... now if you go from 10 to 5 degrees BTDC you just retarded your timing by 5 degrees...
That make sense???
Later,
Steve
DON'T tune ANY boost conditions to 14.7... you'll get detonation and you'll go boom!!! if you have no knock control, then I don't recommend moving your AFR's under boost any leaner than 11.9 (and your timing needs to be conservative too... look at some of the other timing maps posted to get an idea... )
Thanks for the help Turf. Ok, so my 12 number wasn't a complete figment of my imagination. So, BTDC is not the center of the timing curve, but the limit. Also, the 13+ I am seeing is bad, and the cause of my high temps. In boost I need to add fuel to get from 13 to 12. In idle, I am getting 12s, and I need to cut fuel to get to 14.7. Thanks, that will help a lot.
It will affect AFR's a little... just for one reason or another... timing yields power... basically the way I tune is I hit the AFR's I want.. and then run as much timing as I can after that... the more timing you run the more you risk knock... sooo... that's the balance you have to find... safety versus power.
Yesterday I got it to the tuning shop, and found that I was pretty far off the target. I was pushing a whole 54 hp, and 85 ft-lbs, at the end of the tuning session, we got to 125hp, and 132ft-lbs at around 5000rpm in 4th gear. Stock was 98hp and 103ft-lbs. We also found that my BOV is dumping most of my boost, that the stock injectors are virtually maxed out and aren't really able to affect the AFR ratios as much as we need, and today I developed an exhaust leak.
After the tune I also discovered that even with this little increase, the car is quite a bit more fun to drive.
To get to this point, we added a lot of fuel, and advanced the timing quite a bit. We kept going until the power backed off. Here are the maps as they stand now. According to the shop guy, this tuning was necessary to compensate for the lack of pressure in the engine since the BOV was letting a lot go. I haven't fixed it yet due to work and family requirements. I hope to get the BOV readjusted tonight, and the maps tuned down a bit. I plan on retarding the timing and cutting the fuel a little to compensate for the BOV adjustment.
Thoughts?
These are rough, post tuning, and I need to smooth some stuff out.
After the tune I also discovered that even with this little increase, the car is quite a bit more fun to drive.
To get to this point, we added a lot of fuel, and advanced the timing quite a bit. We kept going until the power backed off. Here are the maps as they stand now. According to the shop guy, this tuning was necessary to compensate for the lack of pressure in the engine since the BOV was letting a lot go. I haven't fixed it yet due to work and family requirements. I hope to get the BOV readjusted tonight, and the maps tuned down a bit. I plan on retarding the timing and cutting the fuel a little to compensate for the BOV adjustment.
Thoughts?
These are rough, post tuning, and I need to smooth some stuff out.
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right now my boost is limited at 5 psi. At that level, it varies from 31 deg advance at 0 rpm to 38 degrees advance at 5000rpm, then it drops off a degree or two to 6500rpm.
When you ask about biasing, what do you mean? IF you are thinking that is a lot of degrees advancing, and that maybe I don't have my ignition/trigger settings done right, I am wondering the same thing. But it is the same settings the other pros are using. I can't imagine the 1.8L would be any different from the 2.0 on that, but I don't know for certain.
When you ask about biasing, what do you mean? IF you are thinking that is a lot of degrees advancing, and that maybe I don't have my ignition/trigger settings done right, I am wondering the same thing. But it is the same settings the other pros are using. I can't imagine the 1.8L would be any different from the 2.0 on that, but I don't know for certain.
I do think the advance is a lot.... but the 1.8 may take it better... when I said biased what I mean is when the car is at 10 degrees (as far as what the Haltech is reporting) does it line up on the 10 degree timing mark. If it doesn't then it is "biased" as far as the timing... say if the Haltech reads 10 and the timing mark shows 5 degrees... then the Haltech is biased with 5 degrees of retard... if you are past the 10 mark you'd be biased more advanced.. .then you need to add/subtract that bias to get your true timing.
Later!
Steve
Later!
Steve
you need a timing light... then you just start and idle the car... with it idling read what the Haltech thinks it is putting out and then see where the timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the marks on the plastic that indicate your location... and that's it!
Nick: that's kind of the impression that I get, that something just isn't fitting here. I remember reading that the stock injectors are capable of more, but when we were on the dyno, the AFR curve remained virtually the same. We couldn't seem to get it smoothed out. Unless the shop's AFR equipment wasn't working right. I also did a fuel injection cleaning at the dealer around the 70k mile mark, and I'm at 84k now. I could remove them and do a more thorough cleaning of them. Did you have a specific method in mind? Is it possible the 1.8L injectors from 99 are less capable than the newer 01+ versions?
Turf: couldn't tell you on the fuel pressure. I have no idea. Other than installing a fuel pressure gauge, I have no idea how to measure it. I was wondering about that too.
Turf: couldn't tell you on the fuel pressure. I have no idea. Other than installing a fuel pressure gauge, I have no idea how to measure it. I was wondering about that too.
