glyph's Haltech E6X log...

[glyph]

Sound familiar? Just starting my own to track the progress, or lack thereof that I will experience over the coming days. If you see this, and are knowledgeable, please stick around to help me out, and those haltech users to come.

Thanks, and hope this is helpful for others.

First issue I just discovered today: boost does not occur in idle. I didn't know that, and had never read it anywhere. This explains why you should tune on a dyno... My real issue, though, is that my car wants to stall when I attempt any throttle pump in neutral. Is that a natural result of no boost in neutral?

 

[LinuxRacr]

Can you be more descriptive of when and how this occurs with your throttle pump issue?

 

[glyph]

in talking with Beau, he said is just a tuning issue. It helped somewhat getting the exaust system put on, and re-tightening the manifold, and correctly installing the MAP sensor (i forgot the vacuum source). I will be working on some basic fuel maps tonight. Beau said the problem is overly rich mixture. Since there is basically the default fuel map from haltech in there, it doesn't know what to do at all.

It happens any time I step on the throttle at all. Unless I do it very deliberately and slowly. The engine sounds like its just dying when I apply throttle, and the RPMs drop. Hopefully I will have some basic success here shortly

 

[glyph]

I just did 20 mins of tuning with 0-3000 rpm on the 2d view, and that made a huge difference in the running quality. I can now step on the gas and not have any immediate issues. It turns out that running both the MAP sensor and the MAF sensor is a bad idea. Thanks to Beau for that one. I took off the MAF, and that made a HUGE difference, and increasing the injector time on the 2d map with 5-10 keystrokes per load bar made another huge difference. Now it actually sounds normal. I'm very happy I made it this far. Now once the PLX m300 Air Fuel Ratio meter comes in, I will have even more of an answer. The added bonus of no MAF is the air filter is now much higher (top of the engine bay vs the bottom) which protects it even more from the elements. Btw, I left the MAF connected and resting in there, so I have to secure it somewhere. That way I won't get a CEL. It just isn't in the intake pipe just behind the filter anymore.

I have a decent oil leak to fix from those fittings where the oil pressure sensor is.

 

[glyph]

well, right at the end of that tuning session I got a dreaded rattle from the engine bay. Go to my install thread last page (use the link in my sig) and there's some description of it with a link to another thread.

 

[glyph]

I will start updating this thread again when I get everything back together... In the meantime, my install thread will keep the updates.

 

[glyph]

Alrighty, have the car up and running, and I have done some driving around and some fuel map tuning and things are decent. I don't seem to get much power when the boost comes on, but I am guessing that's due to my tuning set up.

A couple problems I have:
1. very little power when MAP reads positive pressure (boost): tuning issue?
2. when I let of the gas, the PLX displays lean, and I get popping and sputtering. I gather this is a tuning issue as well.
3. The MAIN problem, is the cooling system doesn't seem to be working too well. After 15-20 mins of driving the coolant temp starts going way up. I discovered the fan isn't spinning up front, and the AC doesn't seem to come on either. This might be due to me removing a switch in the environmental control panel that auto turns on the AC when the directional switch is moved to defrost. I will put that back in, and see if that fixes the problem.

 

[glyph]

Here is my current map:

 

[TurfBurn]

A couple problems I have:
1. very little power when MAP reads positive pressure (boost): tuning issue?

If your AFR's are ok, then it is a timing issue... AFR's shoudl be between 11.8 and 12.2 ideally

2. when I let of the gas, the PLX displays lean, and I get popping and sputtering. I gather this is a tuning issue as well.

That is fine... only if you are decelerating... Microtech has a decel function.. I don't know about Haltech... but it cuts fuel during high vacuum draw aka acceleration... helps fuel mileage.. if you are not decelerating or vac is not pulling high (-22 to -25) then it is a tune issue.

3. The MAIN problem, is the cooling system doesn't seem to be working too well. After 15-20 mins of driving the coolant temp starts going way up. I discovered the fan isn't spinning up front, and the AC doesn't seem to come on either. This might be due to me removing a switch in the environmental control panel that auto turns on the AC when the directional switch is moved to defrost. I will put that back in, and see if that fixes the problem.

For the cooling system, did you drain coolant recently? Chance of a bubble... otherwise I don't know on your AC... but the fan should come on as long as the stock computer still sees the stock temperature sensor... if it doesn't because you disconnected it or stole it for the Haltech (you CAN'T share it!!!) then you need to set up a function/output on the Haltech to get the fans to work... or just hardwire the fans to a relay that is switched on whenever the ignition is switched on.

 

[glyph]

I left the air temperature sensor connected, just strapped down inside the engine bay. I didn't mess with the thermostat, if that's what you mean.

I did drain the coolant because I had a bent valve, and had to swap the head. The coolant appears to be circulating. I have opened the cap a couple times to check the level.

Is there any connection between the AC and the cooling fan? When I check the troubleshooting section in the service manual for overheating, it says to check operation of the AC system. I wouldn't have had any clue that they were related.

I did put that little switch back in the panel, and there was no change to any operation.

I also found signs of a leak in the piping for the AC compressor in the engine bay, so that could explain the lack of cool air. The light comes, but I can detect no signs that the compressor is running. Normally there is an RPM drop, but nothing like that occurs.

 

[TurfBurn]

Well I don't know how you guys install the Haltech's... the other thing is are you sure your alternator is charing? You have a symptom set that sounds like the ECU is missing a lot of data, when that happens the AC won't run, it doesn't turn on the fans, AND it doesn't charge with the alternator...

I was asking about the water temp sensor.. which is in the water manifold on the side of the head (driver side). If the stock ECU is not still connected to that sensor, you will not have cooling fans come on at all...

 

[TurfBurn]

The AC clutch pulling in is very clear and distinct.. so if it was doing so you would know.. and you would definitely hear a drop in rpm's and even mild change in AFR unless the Haltech is taking feedback to ID when the AC is pulling in.

 

[glyph]

I figured about the AC clutch. I've always been able to detect it before. The AC switch light comes on, too.

I'll double check the water sensor, I'll check the service manual to ensure I am looking at the right thing.

I am getting a constant 13.5+ volts on the battery according to the data log on the haltech; which indicates to me that it is charging. I checked the connectors on the AC compressor, they appear to be connected (i never disconnected them that I know of). Would low refrigerant pressure cause the clutch to not engage?

 

[TurfBurn]

nope, the clutch is purely magnetic driven. That one black wire that is strapped to the pipe headed down to the AC is the drive wire... you give that 12V and the clutch pulls in...

The AC light in the switch doesn't mean anything. Mine comes on and I don't have a wiring harness .

13.5 is charging... so you are good there.

later1

Steve

 

[glyph]

Thanks, dude. No other ideas? I'll keep doing what I can do. I'm pretty sure I hadn't messed with the wires listed in the book, but I'll have to check them anyways.

As for the AC light, the service manual asks if it lights, so it must mean something... We'll see what I can do.

 

[MPNick]

Would low refrigerant pressure cause the clutch to not engage?

Yes. It is a saftey system to stop the compressor from blowing out in case of a leak. You not only have 134 in the A/C system you have oil for the comp. If there is a leak you may also lose the oil. If your A/C engages the the clutch and you are low on oil the compressor would blow out/ take a dump/ burn up, even lock up. Some cars have a Cycling switch some have a pressure switch, some have both and some do both. One looks for very high head pressure. If it goes very high, around 350psi or higher {I think} it will disengage the clutch. If the A/C fan does not work your pressure will be very high.

The other way is if it see very low pressure. It will think you have a leak and may be out of oil in the system.

Anyway you have more work to do. A/C work is not my thing so you may to ask a AC shop for better advice about this.

 

[TurfBurn]

It just means that the computer knows it SHOULD be activating the AC... doesn't mean it actually activates.. that was all my point was (AC light)

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

The primary fan should work regardless of the a/c system condition. The a/c fan will come on when compressor is engaged or if the pcm decides the primary fan needs help in cooling the engine. If the pcm is not seeing any temperature signal then it should keep the cooling fans (both) on as a failsafe. This, of course, is assuming the pcm still has control of the coolant fans.

Make sure you didn't leave anything unplugged.

 

[mazda2002]

Did you buy a protege specific wiring harness? If so, from whom and did it come with real clear instructions? (are you 100% sure of the install?)

Thanks

 

[TurfBurn]

If the pcm is not seeing any temperature signal then it should keep the cooling fans (both) on as a failsafe.

Huh! Funky... we haven't seen that in our messing around... I wonder why... we usually lose both the fans even though we never touch that wiring if we pull that sensor out of the loop... very strange! (we correct it other ways)