fuel pump internals question

[SallySpeed3]

Hey guys, if I get over this cold I'm hoping to install my PTP internals tommorow night. The directions are pretty good I just had a couple of concerns. After the install I know the break in process is very important. PTP says to let the car idle for 1 minute followed by 1500 rpms for 1 minute, idle 1 minute, 2500 for 1 minute, etc. I currently have my idle set at 1000 rpms due to smoking. Should I reflash back to stock? Stock idle is 750 rpms, thats why I ask. Don't want to eff things up for something so stupid but also don't want to uninstall my AP if unnecessary.

And if anybody who has done the install has any helpful advice/hints I'd appreciate it, thanks.

 

[SallySpeed3]

Ok so I just installed the internals. Took me way longer than expected. Got to the pump with no problem, zip tied the nut, yadda yadda. So I get it out and put in my vice. I got the assembly out pretty easily but I noticed the sleeve was still on the piston, not in the pump like the directions showed and almost every how to or video I could find online. Took me about half an hour to get it off. Had to compress the spring by hand enough so that I could see the tiny hole appear then I had to shove in the tip of my needle nose pliers, got some leverage and it popped off. Also took me about an hour to get the stupid little button back on to the tip of the piston. Overall the directions were ok, but for someone like myself who's never done this before, some better pictures would have come in handy. Anyway, did the idle break in thing. Went for a little bit of a drive, no boost but I was seeing psi as high as 1600. I'm hoping thats a good sign. My idle psi is still around 430-440. Is that normal? I thought they'd be higher. If they were going to fail would they have done so already?

 

[Darth Vader]

That's normal. Why would you want idle pressures to be higher? All that's going to do is strain things needlessly and cause tuning problems.

For anyone else, I used a socket on the plunger washer to bang the button off, which captures it in the process. I used dino motor oil to lube the internals for startup.

To reinstall, I pushed the shaft up as high as it would go, slid a 14mm box wrench under the retainer, laid it between my slightly open vise jaws, with the wrench overhanging the gap, then putting the button on and smacking it with a deadblow hammer. Went on right away, doing that.