Fuel pump internals install

2010blackms3

Member
:
2010 Mazda Speed 3
So this last weekend i decided to upgrade my fuel pump internals with the KMD internals i just bought. i had the install guide printed out and seemed easy. I was in the Marines and i just want to make this How to as simple as possible or dummy proof to save people moneyz.

This is my helper or second set of paws, lol
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Oh and im no expert or mechanic, so let me apologize for not knowing the right name for whatever part im trying to describe.
1. First thing i did was to to remove the fuse box cover next to the battery and then remove the BLUE FUSE which under the cover says CIRCUIT.
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2. Cold start the car and it should die after a few seconds.

3. Disconnect battery, remove the 2 nuts that hold down the bracket that keeps battery in place. i think they are 10 mm. then remove battery
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4. The battery box has 3 10 mm bolts holding it down. There is also a small box attached on the left side of the battery box (dont know what it is) and has 2 cables attached to it. remove the cables and the battery box should come out.
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5. Remove your SRI, CAI or stock airbox.

6. Remove TIP, this will make it so much easier to move around.
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7. Optional. I removed my stock TMIC and stock BPV since i was replacing it for the ETS TMIC and the Turbosmart dualport BPV.
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8. you should see the fuel pump and there are 4 lines attached to it. THREE are on TOP, one is the very top one is BLACK. under that there is a BLUE and the other YELLOW. the FOURTH line is under the fuel pump, which is made of steel or some kind of metal
Remove the 3 lines on top, some fuel might come out of the blue and yellow
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Remove the 3 lines on top, some fuel might come out of the blue and yellow

Put a zip tie 1 inch under the metal bolt so that when you loosen it up, it wont fall all the way down. to loosen it up use a 17mm open rench to hold the bottom base of the FP which should NOT spin and a 19 mm open rench to turn the nut im touching clock wise to loosen
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9. The fuel pump should be ready to be removed. CAREFULLY and EVENLY unscrew the 3 star shaped bolts with an E8 inverted tool.
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10. once removed, put some rubber gloves. Thanks to Philly, told me not to touch the internals with my hands. here is the fuel pump removed
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11. for this part you could use an extra hand and a vice grip to remove this bolt that im pointing at with my index finger, which contains the internals.
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12. This is what it looks like once taken out. if the fat bottom part is in the fuel pump, use pliers i think to take it out.
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13. take it apart and replace according to whatever instructions you receive, i had KMD. i know a lot of people are ordering Autotechs.
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14. here are the stock internals
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15. here are the KMD internals installed, yes i know i dont have gloves on, i put them on afterwards. let the parts soak in some gasoline for a few minutes and make sure nothing fell in the fuel pump.
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16. put the fuel pump back together, tighten the bolt in which the internals are in to about 40 ft/lbs torque, basically very tight. use a torque rench and install. just as you uncrewed the fuel pump EVENLY, you are going to tighten it EVENLY.
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17. connect everything and put everything back together. For my directions, i was told to let the car idle for 20 mins. and take it easy on the car for 100 miles. if you have any suggestions let me know.

the difference is huge, it feels like a jet.

The whole install took me about 3 hours, took my time and was very carefull because like i said, im not an expert or mechanic.

Enjoy, everyone.
 
Great thread, very thorough! Just got my turboxs downpipe installed and ive been watching my dashhawk and my fuel pressure has been dropping low so im internals is the next step for me. Just recently installed my cobb TIP and it seems like the same procedure, ill let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the good thread
 
Just installed my AutoTech internals...took us about an hour. (less if the engine wasn't still hot). You can simplify these steps. First, you don't need to remove anything but the TMIC cover and fuel pump fuse. Everything else can stay. (FYI, you should never set a battery on concrete, can drain the battery). All other steps look great. Also, I like your zip tie to keep the nut from slipping down into the abyss. You can use a shop rag and stuff it under the nut, also acts as a catch to stop excess fuel when draining your lines.
 
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