Forge bpv help

[mazdaspeed248]

I just bought the forge bpv and i hear different ways to install as far as the spring and shims and help on this matter?

mods are cobb sri and the hks hi power cbe

 

[mr_mazda329]

I just bought the forge bpv and i hear different ways to install as far as the spring and shims and help on this matter?

Do what feels the best. I used just the yellow for summer since i dont want to spike as hard. But then i use the Blue one for when it cools down. Many on here swear by Blue+2. Search the threads, there are many results. IT all depends on what you like. Red is definately a no go for stock boost. Too stiff.

 

[mazdaspeed248]

Do what feels the best. I used just the yellow for summer since i dont want to spike as hard. But then i use the Blue one for when it cools down. Many on here swear by Blue+2. Search the threads, there are many results. IT all depends on what you like. Red is definately a no go for stock boost. Too stiff.

Well not to sound to dumb im kinda new to the turbo world so im not really sure what the different springs mean any help with this?

 

[mr_mazda329]

The different color springs are different stiffness.

http://forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=&product=FMDVTUN

Technically..we are supposed to use the Yellow one, but some say this doesnt hold boost as well as the blue one and psi bleeds off.

 

[leadf00t]

We are suppoosed to use the blue one for our car. Patty from Forge has posted about this multiple times. I have been running blue+1 for a year, and it works very well. My mods are in my sig.

 

[massiespeed3]

i was running blue+1 and just switched to blue+2. i havnt really felt a diffrence at all. i tryed the yellow one and it didnt seem as loud and i like the nijas fighting so i kept the blue in. the red just sounds like a fart bc the stock boost is to low.

 

[Saskatchewan17]

Try blue+1 or blue+2.

Yellow's too soft... red might be a bit hard.

 

[Darth Vader]

Try a few setups and see what you like. Personally, I like the red on stock boost just fine. The car has tons of torque, no flutter at light throttle and pops open perfectly well when hit with vac.

 

[SHAGwagn]

sorry to revive this...but u said if it flutters u need it to be stiffer? I have blue+2 and i get a flutter when i let off at partial throttle...whats next? Red? I heard red was a nono...ive only got COBB SRI, COBB inlet and boost tubes as my mods. Thanks

 

[Saskatchewan17]

sorry to revive this...but u said if it flutters u need it to be stiffer? I have blue+2 and i get a flutter when i let off at partial throttle...whats next? Red? I heard red was a nono...ive only got COBB SRI, COBB inlet and boost tubes as my mods. Thanks

Leave it, you're fine. If you're getting a slight bit of flutter at vac or low boost that's fine, as long as the valve opens up nicely under full boost.

 

[mr_mazda329]

Oi... If your getting flutter, it means it could be too stiff. So when your only pushing moderate boost levels ie. 5-10 psi. Its not gonna force the BPV to open as quickly. But its perfect for WOT. Trying taking out one of the shims.

 

[jeff4880]

I could never get my Forge to work right no matter what spring and shim I put in it. I have cleaned and rebuilt the thing a few times too. I ended up putting the stock valve back.

 

[mr_mazda329]

I could never get my Forge to work right no matter what spring and shim I put in it. I have cleaned and rebuilt the thing a few times too. I ended up putting the stock valve back.

Wow? Really? Its not rocket science. Is it broken. Hell. Just throw the blue in and it will work fine. Not that hard.

 

[djuosnteisn]

There are several o-rings in the forge units, and each one is necessary for proper operation.

There is a very easy check to tell if the valve is working correctly, regardless of what spring is installed.
- With the bpv off the car, simply use a pencil or pen or the plastic handle of a screw driver or something, and depress the piston from the under side. Do not use your finger unless you think blood blisters are cool.
- With the pistons depressed a fair ways, put one of your finger tips over the nipple on the top.
- You should be able to pull away the pencil or pen or screw driver handle or whatever at this point, and the piston should REMAIN depressed. Then when you pull your finger off the nipple, it should snap back to it's normally closed position.


This basically tells you that all the o-rings internally are sealing as they should, and you can rest assured it will operate properly on the car. It's an easy test and good to do each time you pull it apart to oil it.

Personally i ran a blue spring w/ no shims. I think yellow is a bit too soft. Red is a bit too hard.

I also used gun oil for my lube lol.

 

[ericrapp]

^ very good advice. when you get flutter you are close to the best setup. As long as it happens when coming out of the throttle ( releasing the go pedal!) I would suggest adding a shim. Patty at Forge has said flutter will cause no harm. Try a yellow with two, and watch your boost and then a blue with one and see which one works best for you. The shims are for fine tuning. Good luck!

 

[08cosmic3]

I use the blue + 1 shim with my mods. 2 shims holds boost better but daily driving is best with one.

 

[djuosnteisn]

Do you really notice a difference in how much boost it can hold between the different springs?

My understanding is this:
- the valve is sprung, thus it's shut if there equal pressure on either side of the piston.
- under boost, there is roughly equal pressure in the manifold as there is in the cold pipe where the bpv is mounted, thus there is equal pressure on both sides of the piston.

So theoretically, all of the springs should behave equally under boost. And the different springs would only affect how quickly it opens once the throttle plate is closed and a pressure differential develops between the mani and cold pipe... in which case a lower spring is probably more desirable to avoid surging the turbo or making the car buck.


I'm asking a legitimate question here too lol, cause i never saw a correlation between spring and boost while i had that valve. If anyone has, i'd love to hear about it and figure out why.

 

[jeff4880]

Wow? Really? Its not rocket science. Is it broken. Hell. Just throw the blue in and it will work fine. Not that hard.

I have had every spring and shim combo in it and replaced all the o-rings and relubracated them several times. None of those combanations worked as well as my stock valve.

 

[ericrapp]

There are some very good and thought out points here> I think Patty@Forge would best answer these. The only difference i can say from theory is that there is no adjustment in the stock unit and mine was leaking and quite slow to reseat( it seems) no data sorry. The Forge offers some adjustments but sufficient i think at our lower boost levels. As you progress up the ladder to more expensive units, my understanding is a piece that is able to fine tune release and clamping. and the suggestion of reliability. I have had no problems myself and i worry something else is wrong with our friend her. Nobody wants failure when relieving boost. we all know that for sure. but there are unequal pressures on the piston i believe when switching from vac/pressure thus the spring. i hope one of our experts can help us?

 

[abovie3]

i pulled off my forge to test to see if the orings need replacing and have a few questions. i depressed the piston all the way from the bottom, then covered the vac hose inlet and the piston comes back up but makes a suction "pop" noise when released. so does this mean I need to get the rebuild kit for it?