For all those so-called car experts! Read this...You might need it.

[markuszoom5]

I have always owned a dark car. Blue chevy cavalier, blue ford taurus SHO, blue oldsmobile alero, gray jetta. I finally bought my brand new 2010 Mazda 5 in Oct, 2010, and it came in Pearl Mica White. After the winter, I had all orange spots over the car. Hundreds of them. Rail dust? Brake dust? Rust dust? I kept asking questions and listening. Guess what nothing worked. So all of those that like Maguires and Mothers and their clay bars and super awesome waxes. I tried it all. Scrubbed, washed, repeated. Nothing...The orange dots were still there.
Then one day I went to Big Lots and saw Turtlewax ICE Liquid Clay bar for $3.50, and Turtlewax ICE Sythetic Polish for $5.00. Now, read carefully. At BigLots. Not Advance Auto, not PepBoys. So I fugured after hearing advice from this message board and all those "Experts" at auto stores, and after spending over $80 on different waxes. I had nothing to lose. I bought the 2 things @ BigLots. And lo and behold:

All the rust spots were gone and my car was stripped down to bare. Then I applied the synthetic polish. And oh my god...my car looks like it just came out of the show room.

So please all you "experts" read this: I have developed my own step by step: 2 hour complete detail. Between 8:00 and 12:00 I have detailed both my wife's Honda Civic and my Mazda and they look like brand new. Oh, by the way. According to research. ICE is one of the hardest waxes. Oh, yea that's right. It's not a paste...It's not Zymol.

So here is step by ste:

1. Wash your car with Turtlewax ICE soap and rinse. Do not dry.
2. Apply the ICE liquid clay bar one section @ a time. Rub back and forth. Use more elbow grease on tar and rust spots. They will come off. Leave on for 2-3 min and then rinse. Move on to the next panel and rinse. Until you have completed the whole car.
3. Wash your car again with ICE soap. (to remove all the clay bar residue.)
4. Dry your car completely.
5. Apply the ICE liquid polish per directions. It needs to be left on for 5-10 min. You can do your trim with it too if you want. It leaves a nice shine.

And that is it. So enjoy. And before you use your 250 step expert detail try my "amateur" detail.

 

[90210]

Mark

Did you wax it after the polish? I didn't see a step 6.

 

[markuszoom5]

These days the word "polish" and "wax" is used interchangeably. ICE is a "wax". Water beads after you apply it. It does not come off after washing your car again. It stays on for quite a bit. Probably a good 4-6 months depending on how much you wash your car. My neighbors car is proof. He uses the same thing. But I did not want to use it before because I was unable to remove the orange specks. I did not want to seal them into the paint forever. Here are links to the two products you need:
Liquid clay bar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Liquid polish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Both products are synthetic. Just like oil, synthetic is better. My car is proof.

 

[markuszoom5]

From the guy asking the question about wax and polish I concluded: The wax manufacturers are trying to make money by selling all the crap separately to the do it yourselfer. You need pre-wax cleaner, a clay bar, a polish, a wax...bla bla bla. No you do not. I tried it all until I went to biglots and found the two turtlewax products simply by chance. Who wants to spend all weekend getting the same results you can get with ICE. By the time you are done the joy of driving your car on a hot summer day and showing it off passes quick and especially if the end result is still mediocre. From now on, I swear by ICE liquid clay bar and ICE liquid polish. And I got both for under $10.

 

[markuszoom5]

These are some of the replies I got back when I begged for a solution to remove the orange specks.

"It's commonly referred to as rail rust. Brake dust, airborn particulates and other things settle on the car and rust. The easiest thing to do is wash, claybar the car, polish and wax. As long as you keep a good wax on the car and wash it regularly the dust probably won't settle and rust. Winter is tough to keep up so stay on top of it until the snow flies at the beginning of winter."

"I would recommend you don't buff it. Your dealer is wrong. Do not apply anything until you get the rail dust off first. Waxing at this point will just grind the rust particles into your paint.

Get a clay bar kit at your local auto parts place. It will come with some liquid that makes it easy to move the clay around on your paint. Follow the instructions and go over the whole car with the clay bar in thorough fashion. Again, follow the clay bar instructions and don't get in a a hurry, do it right. Don't skimp on the clay bar lube or forget to squish the clay regularly to get a new surface.

I've clayed several cars with excellent results.

Until you've clayed it, avoid doing anything else."


See, all these people are recommending a clay bar. I tried that it did not work. I did it for 2 hours until the clay bar fell on the floor because I got tired. Claybars suck. That is my opinion.

 

[90210]

Thanks Mark. I have the clay bar. I always use Meguirs Gold Class car wash, but they didn't have it last time, so ended up with the ICE car wash you recommended. Will try their polish.

I pick up my 2012 Mazda 5 tomorrow night, and this weekend will do the full wash, clay, polish/wax

 

[markuszoom5]

Sounds good. Just do what I did.

Thanks Mark. I have the clay bar. I always use Meguirs Gold Class car wash, but they didn't have it last time, so ended up with the ICE car wash you recommended. Will try their polish.

I pick up my 2012 Mazda 5 tomorrow night, and this weekend will do the full wash, clay, polish/wax

Yep. Wash the car. Leave it wet. Use ICE liquid clay bar. Then rinse it and wash car again. Then dry your car and use the ICE liquid polish. You will be amazed.

 

[DKaz]

Sorry, I'm a purist, I hate polishes that also seal/wax. But to each their own.

 

[markuszoom5]

Polishes have abrasives, ICE liquid polish does not, so by traditional standards ICE is a wax. It does bead water and protect your paint. The more layers you apply the shinier your car will be. I have heard stories of people applying ICE 15x on their paint just to overkill the shine. Plus, it's easy to put on and take off. No white residue. No hazing. Just wait 10 min and wipe with microfiber. Can't get easier than that.

 

[Silentnoise713]

...Not Advance Auto, not PepBoys. So I fugured after hearing advice from this message board and all those "Experts" at auto stores

Well, I don't think you should take AA and PB as expert advice Im by no means an expert detailer but for the everyday enthusiast, the full strip, polish, and seal program is a bit too much, but I do think the results will last you a lot longer else the orbital buffer/polisher business will go under, which I do not foreseeing anytime soon.

Sounds like the Turtle wax is worth trying if it is cheap but I don't think everyone has a BigLots around for the discounted price. Regardless of brand, a (good) clay bar + (good) wax will do wonders. Personally, I use and prefer Mother's clay bar kit. It cost a little more but it comes with a 2 clay bars, a bottle of instant detailer which I think is liquid rubbing compound so be gentile, and a microfiber towel.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[markuszoom5]

So why didn't the magyars and mother's which I have purchased both and used ($40 all together) without any results. I lubricated and rubbed and nothing. The orange specks were still there. Maybe it removed a couple, mostly the bigger ones. But there would still be an orange center left. Then when I used ICE liquid clay, it removed all of them. No more orange. So why, oh why are you swearing by the solid clay bar when it did not do anything for me. ICE actually left my paint bare and freshly stripped. Then when I applied the ICE liquid polish (wax), the shine came back and the car was piano smooth.

 

[Silentnoise713]

So why, oh why are you swearing by the solid clay bar when it did not do anything for me.

Ummmm.... b/c I don't know exactly what kind of 'orange specks' you speak of nor am I swearing anything for you. I do stand by that it works wonders for me so to each his own. If you still have some of the Mother’s clay bar kit left, spray some of ‘instant detailer’ on a hidden panel and rub hard. You should see paint smear, which is why I think this is rubbing compound = liquid sand paper and I'm pretty sure it'll take just about anything off if you rub hard enough. If you are just using the clay bar as is, that’s another story. The kit does not come with a finishing wax, which you should apply afterwards.

 

[sanblaster]

I get those every winter since I owned my car and claybar for me does work, also scratch x remover takes them off and bug and tar remover takes them off too. Just depends what you have. I have the ice products and just not a fan. The liquid clay bar is alright, doesn't really do anything for me, and their wax is fast to apply which I love for those quick waxes but attract way too much crap after application. Not saying you are wrong with everything you mentioned, I just have had different results than you.

 

[markuszoom5]

No I did not just use the clay bar dry. It would be impossible to rub it against the paint. I used both maguire's and mother's clay bar with the lubricants that come with it. I also tried other lubricants. I got so tired of rubbing and spraying that the clay ended up falling on the floor. I got no results. The orange spots are little specks (maybe rail dust, maybe brake dust, maybe something in the road salt, I don't know.) But they are orange specks. Some are rough, others are smooth like paint. Claybaring did not do anything. And they I used the liquid clay bar (Turtlewax ICE) and the specks came right off. There was no paint damage where the spots were. Just smooth finish. So basically to sum up. If regular clay bar works for ya then use it. I am just saying though that if regular clay bar could not remove orange specks but the liquid claybar did and there was no paint damage or clearcoat removal, then why should people spend $20 on a regular clay bar when the can pay around $15 and get the ICE liquid clay and the end-result is better.

 

[Copper5]

In the world of clay bars, Meg's and Mother's are two of the 'finest', as in least aggressive, so as not to scare the basic, home user with marring. If you want to try a good clay bar, step up to Clay Majic. More aggressive than Meg's and Mother's, but won't leave marring like some of the even more aggressive pro stuff (Meg's 'red' clay, for example).

Congrats on having good luck with the Turtle Wax liquid clay bar. I've wondered how it worked...

 

[flcruising]

My clay bar is gray plumber's putty - CHEAP!