Finally working : FIC

L

lp216

Member
Ok so I finally get the FIC working in my car !

First of all our car have Mag style crank / cam sensor, not hall effect.

Second, I stopped intercepting the MAF, and now everything is working just fine.

Just a little issue is the car is "bucking" at 5000 rpm, but i will figure it out later :p
 
whats fic? is it fmic? and congrats! can u post a pic of ur setup? i need ideas b4 i redo mine
 
Finally someone else gets that thing to run!!! I think that makes 3 LOL. I really liked the function for the price on that unit, but the fact that people can't get it to work steered me off. As far as "bucking " at 5K what WGA are you running? If it's the stocker replace it with either Forge or ATP.
How do you like the AEM unit? Is it easy to self tune? or is it like the Unichip where you have to have it done by a someone else? The only real reason I went with the Split Second (which I'm still waiting on install!!! (sad2) ) was because of the great availablity of support both local and on the boards. If I had more experience with car electronics and tuning I would have went with the AEM unit
 
Dude you should post up what wires you have on what pin number on the MSP ecu and people would love you and then we could try to get it sticky'ed.
 
Bucking is not working fine. Do not mislead people until you can do a clean full WOT pull.
 
Last edited:
zuku26 said:
Finally someone else gets that thing to run!!! I think that makes 3 LOL. I really liked the function for the price on that unit, but the fact that people can't get it to work steered me off. As far as "bucking " at 5K what WGA are you running? If it's the stocker replace it with either Forge or ATP.
How do you like the AEM unit? Is it easy to self tune? or is it like the Unichip where you have to have it done by a someone else? The only real reason I went with the Split Second (which I'm still waiting on install!!! (sad2) ) was because of the great availablity of support both local and on the boards. If I had more experience with car electronics and tuning I would have went with the AEM unit
Click to expand...

I'm running the stock WGA, but i'll install my forge soon. For the tuning, its very similar to the ss, since its RPM vs Load. To make sure the car run well i will get it dyno tuned

SeR_Cyclops said:
Dude you should post up what wires you have on what pin number on the MSP ecu and people would love you and then we could try to get it sticky'ed.
Click to expand...

I Will try to do this, but there is so much cable, OMG lol.

JDM Sam said:
Bucking is not working fine. Do not mislead people until you can do a clean full WOT pull.
Click to expand...

I think the bucking at 5000 is no big deal. Maybe I will just have to add a resistor on the MAF circuit or something like that.

My car is going to my local speed shop next wednesday, I will check it out there and give you some news, and some numbers ! :)
 
Yeah photos and wiring details would be awesome.

Congrats on doing something new. I love it when people step outside the box.
 
Clamping the MAF is also not an ideal solution.. I have to agree with JDM Sam on this one. It doesn't sound like you have a 100% reliable tune just yet..
 
KrayzieFox said:
Clamping the MAF is also not an ideal solution.. I have to agree with JDM Sam on this one. It doesn't sound like you have a 100% reliable tune just yet..
Click to expand...

i have to agree as well. there are reasons why certain piggybacks work well, work so so and don't work at all when it comes to these cars. bucking at any RPM under load is not good and splicing resistors into the MAF is really not a viable long term solution. none of us are trying to criticize you, don't take it that way. we just don't want to see you pop the motor.
 
SeR_Cyclops said:
Do you have a wideband? can you monitor what the car is really doing?
Click to expand...

Yes, and everything seams to be fine, until it goes to 5000 rpm, then the afr start jumping a little bit

Captain KRM P5 said:
i have to agree as well. there are reasons why certain piggybacks work well, work so so and don't work at all when it comes to these cars. bucking at any RPM under load is not good and splicing resistors into the MAF is really not a viable long term solution. none of us are trying to criticize you, don't take it that way. we just don't want to see you pop the motor.
Click to expand...

For the moment I'm staying out of the 5000 where the car is bucking, and it running fine.
Like I said I have a appointement to my speed shop on wednesday, to get it dyno tuned. He's a specialist of Standalone/Piggyback, so I guess I will be more able than me to figure what goes wrong.
 
1. Yes the car run fine with the by-pass plug
1. Yes i have re-flash the f/ic and install the latest software on my laptop
3. Do you mean log save the log on my computer, then check it with the AEMLog program? If yes, yes i can.
 
#2 is important

the Mazda ECUs only like to play nice with the z110.hex file due to double-pulsed injectors.
you have to update this file on the F/IC unit.
check the AEM site for instructions
 
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