Finally BOOSTED!!!

[Kooldino]

I have actualy found to ways. their is a allen heas screw below the throutle body secured with a nut. You can loosen the nut and tighrten the allen head. also on the side of the trottle body by the firewall ther is a recessed phillips head screw to Adjust it also.

Cool, I'll take a look. You don't have any pics, do ya?

 

[big_ben]

It wasn't the boost that hurt my motor. I was on the way to work one morning and I think I ran over something that hit my oil return line from the turbo and knocked it loose, thus draining all the oil from my car. My oil lamp came on about 1/4 mile from my work. So when I got to work, I checked the oil and there was none in there. Soon after, everything in my motor began to rattle(bearings gone!), and it began to smoke badly, much worse than before.(seals in turbo burned up!) So the oil was pushing past the seals in the turbo and sending lots of oil into my intake stream. I think there was a small leak in the turbo to begin with because my car was smoking as soon as I installed the turbo. It just wasn't that bad. So, I still need to do a compression test and if that turns out ok, I'll just replace all the rod bearings and main bearing and see what happens. I was only running 5psi at the time by the way.

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

1st, you do NOT want to be messing with the stop screw. This will screw up your TPS adjustment, which can cause worse idle problems. If you adjust the butterfly open, you can lose the idle signal from the TPS, so the ecu doesn't know it's supposed to be controlling idle. This could cause a droop. For idle speed adjustments, you want to use the recessed phillips head screw only.

 

[1sty]

The reason the power steering went to crap as the rpm dropped to 200 or so is because you car is starting to stall and the power steering pump isn't getting enough power to maintain the power steering.

I agree but you missed one part of what I said. the steering can get diffucult while at 3000 RPM and not accelerating or decelerating. The belts and tightnes are all fine and the alignment is also good. And like I said before the same stretch of raod will pull the car one day and not the next.

 

[1sty]

1st, you do NOT want to be messing with the stop screw. This will screw up your TPS adjustment, which can cause worse idle problems. If you adjust the butterfly open, you can lose the idle signal from the TPS, so the ecu doesn't know it's supposed to be controlling idle. This could cause a droop. For idle speed adjustments, you want to use the recessed phillips head screw only.

I only slightly adjusted it. How canI tell where it should be to put it back to normal?

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

From that description, I'd be looking to defective pump or rack.

 

[Stou]

I don't have this problem on mine but my setup is different than yours. I have stock injectors with 2 extras injectors and a controller and you are runing your setup with an FMU. Maybe that's where the problem come from. I don't think Spoolin have an idle problem and he's also runing is setup with extra injectors.

I don't know......

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

If anybody is listening, I'm suggesting that it may be the fpr/fmu. Not a problem with the concept, but possibly the adjustment. On 1st's car, the adjustment of the throttle stop may be contributing, too.

 

[big_ben]

I listen to anything you have to say. You can't argue with the experts.

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

I wouldn't go that far, though we appreciate the confidence. We're all learning a lot on the Protege.

 

[big_ben]

I just watch out for posts from you guys because you have years of experience that I don't have. But as for the studdering he's taling about, here is my theory. I was having the same problem at first too.

IF there is a leak after the MAF, the MAF is still reading all that air going through the sensor, and the ECU is injecting fuel for that amount of air. Then as the air leaks out, the amount of air isn't enough to match the fuel delivery because of the leak. Then the O2 is reading very rich, so the ecu is going back and forth and cant figure out what to do. I'm not positive on this, but it's just my thoughts on the subject. Am I right or wrong,...I don't know, you tell me.

 

[1sty]

On 1st's car, the adjustment of the throttle stop may be contributing, too.

Probably more then just that.

Actualy the increase of the idle point stopped all stalling. but no the fluctuations.

If you cover the inlet of the MAF with your hand for a split second and the belows collapses and the car praticly stalls, litterealy 1 second or less. Can there be an intake leak or not?

Also If you guys think replacing the MAF into the I/C pipe just before the throatle body will help I am more then willing. But I would aslo assume it would be better to move the Temperature sensor also?

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

Ben,
Since it's an idle problem, the air will actually be leaking in, if that is the issue. Which would make the car run lean due to unmeasured additional air. I know earlier in this thread someone said they had checked all that and been able to snuff the engine by covering the filter inlet.

 

[big_ben]

Can there be an intake leak or not?

Yes, there still can be a leak. Any time the MAF stops reading air the engine will stall unless you raise the rpms signifigantly. The leak probably isn't big enough to get enough air to keep the motor running. But to test this so you can understand what I'm talking about, just unplug the MAF, then start it up. It will stall unless you stay on the gas. This is the same as putting your hand over the front of the MAF. I don't like to put my hand over the MAF though because it scares the s*** out of me when I do it. I feel like it's going to suck my hand in there.

 

[big_ben]

Since it's an idle problem, the air will actually be leaking in

Oh,...I didn't think about that. When it goes into boost it leaks out though. I'm too confused to think about it anymore.(scratch)

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

1st. Opening the butterfly further will raise the mechanical idle speed. That's fine, but if it's opened enough to turn off the idle switch, then it would keep the ecu from making idle corrections. Killing the engine wouldn't necessarily rule out a small leak, it would rule out a gross leak. Moving the MAF probably won't buy much, BTDT with Miatas.

 

[big_ben]

BTDT with Miatas.

Huh?

 

[TurboDog's Dad]

Been There Done That

 

[big_ben]

Oh,....I'm illiterate when it comes to abbreviations. I know this one though,....lol

 

[1sty]

1st. Opening the butterfly further will raise the mechanical idle speed. That's fine, but if it's opened enough to turn off the idle switch, then it would keep the ecu from making idle corrections. Killing the engine wouldn't necessarily rule out a small leak, it would rule out a gross leak. Moving the MAF probably won't buy much, BTDT with Miatas.

Either way I would like to put the butterfly back to the right point but How will I be able to tell what that is?

What can those of us with MP3s do to rule out the timing differences as our idle/ stalling cause being that all of the MP3s using the kit seem to have the exact same problem?

Seems weird that only P5s don't have the problem.

Also this one is new but wierd. I added octane boost untill I get the change to turn down the waste gate. It appears to have made the car, smoother but slower